headlight relay diagram question?
01-15-2009, 07:30 PM
#16
I wish I was as fine, as those who work the pipeline!
The concept will work on all vehicles. I am working on one right now for my sons 90 Cabriolet, and another one for my hew holland TL 90 tractor.
01-16-2009, 05:53 AM
#17
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Kansas City & Maysville, MO
Posts: 811
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
I in fact did see a significant difference in lighting. With my factory wiring I measured an 11% voltage drop at the headlamps. According to the chart www.danielsternlighting.com, an 11% voltage decrease relates to a 33% decrease in light bulb output. That is significant. Coupled with the original single bulb housing, the factory lighting system was severely limited. The factory wiring is inadequate at best.
In my opinion, given the original single bulb headlamp system, this is one of the best modifications for the money in terms of overall improvement, drivability, and safety. Not to mention tertiary advantages of removing the single largest draw of electricity and therefore heat from the headlight switch, which could possibly increase it's life.
In my opinion, given the original single bulb headlamp system, this is one of the best modifications for the money in terms of overall improvement, drivability, and safety. Not to mention tertiary advantages of removing the single largest draw of electricity and therefore heat from the headlight switch, which could possibly increase it's life.
Don't get me wrong, I don't think you're hurting anything if you want to rewire; it's just a little like the old speaker wire debate. Some guys swear they can hear a difference between $0.85 a foot zip wire and $200 a foot oxygen free whatever the current thing is speaker wire. But if both meet the minimum electrical requirements I guarantee they couldn't tell them apart at any more than might be expected at random.
01-16-2009, 08:42 AM
#18
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Peoria AZ
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You can buy a pre-made harness. I think they are about the same price as if you get the RIK-RAM kit from www.DanielSternloighting.com but far inferior in quality. By building it yourself, it is SIGNIFICANTLY better quality and guaranteed to fit.
Besides the harness, for your truck, you should also get new sport headlamp housings (2 bulbs per side instead of 1). Unfortunately for us, it is a more expensive mod, but the factory lighting on our (non-sport) trucks is pathetic. I have been trying to fix mine since I bought the damm thing new. Thank God for Jim Lane and this site!!!
You truck is also negatively switched, read above to see how to check so you don't have to redo it like I did.
I am not sure if this answers your question.
Besides the harness, for your truck, you should also get new sport headlamp housings (2 bulbs per side instead of 1). Unfortunately for us, it is a more expensive mod, but the factory lighting on our (non-sport) trucks is pathetic. I have been trying to fix mine since I bought the damm thing new. Thank God for Jim Lane and this site!!!
You truck is also negatively switched, read above to see how to check so you don't have to redo it like I did.
I am not sure if this answers your question.
Here is my solution for now;
Did this before the headlamp swap.
I'll build my own harness with relays for the single lamp/non sport lights and see how it goes.
01-16-2009, 02:42 PM
#21
I wish I was as fine, as those who work the pipeline!
Yep. As I said above I had a significant voltage drop in my factory harness. Just adding the harness will increase the lumens of your existing bulbs.
Get the kit from daniel stern, then in the future when you have some extra cash you can upgrade you headlamp housings, everything will be ready for you. All you'll have to do is install the new headlamp assemblies and a bit of rewiring, switching your 9004 socket to 9007, and you'll be good to go.
Make sense???
Get the kit from daniel stern, then in the future when you have some extra cash you can upgrade you headlamp housings, everything will be ready for you. All you'll have to do is install the new headlamp assemblies and a bit of rewiring, switching your 9004 socket to 9007, and you'll be good to go.
Make sense???
01-16-2009, 03:48 PM
#22
I wish I was as fine, as those who work the pipeline!
If you changed bulbs, or if you changed from the regular to the Sport headlight setup, of course you saw better lighting. And that's always a good thing. But I'm sure it had to do with changing bulbs, not with replacing one set of relays with a different set of relays. Won't make any difference in heat in the headlight switch, either, since it's just switching power to a different set of relays than it was before.
Don't get me wrong, I don't think you're hurting anything if you want to rewire; it's just a little like the old speaker wire debate. Some guys swear they can hear a difference between $0.85 a foot zip wire and $200 a foot oxygen free whatever the current thing is speaker wire. But if both meet the minimum electrical requirements I guarantee they couldn't tell them apart at any more than might be expected at random.
Don't get me wrong, I don't think you're hurting anything if you want to rewire; it's just a little like the old speaker wire debate. Some guys swear they can hear a difference between $0.85 a foot zip wire and $200 a foot oxygen free whatever the current thing is speaker wire. But if both meet the minimum electrical requirements I guarantee they couldn't tell them apart at any more than might be expected at random.
01-19-2009, 07:50 AM
#23
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Peoria AZ
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yep. As I said above I had a significant voltage drop in my factory harness. Just adding the harness will increase the lumens of your existing bulbs.
Get the kit from daniel stern, then in the future when you have some extra cash you can upgrade you headlamp housings, everything will be ready for you. All you'll have to do is install the new headlamp assemblies and a bit of rewiring, switching your 9004 socket to 9007, and you'll be good to go.
Make sense???
Get the kit from daniel stern, then in the future when you have some extra cash you can upgrade you headlamp housings, everything will be ready for you. All you'll have to do is install the new headlamp assemblies and a bit of rewiring, switching your 9004 socket to 9007, and you'll be good to go.
Make sense???
01-19-2009, 10:00 AM
#24
I wish I was as fine, as those who work the pipeline!
Yea, but I really don't foresee ever doing the sport swap unless I can steel the lights. Especially with the aux lights I have on there now.
01-19-2009, 01:11 PM
#25
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Peoria AZ
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks but with a switch operated ground, I', not sure to seperate HI's from LO's? prolly simple but I haven't figured it out yet. I'd like to hook up the low power circuit of my aux lights to the high beam switch.....
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Tiger Rag
Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only
3
03-07-2006 06:56 PM
mazeppa
12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain
3
02-10-2004 06:54 PM