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Fuel level unit in tank

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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 10:09 PM
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ohanahorse's Avatar
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Fuel level unit in tank

I believe I've got the dreaded bad fuel level sending unit. Is there an easy repair for this (I know I have drop the tank) or is it a replacement issue?? If replacement, where is the best place to go shopping??
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 11:15 PM
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From: Brushy Creek (East Texas)
Originally Posted by ohanahorse
I believe I've got the dreaded bad fuel level sending unit. Is there an easy repair for this (I know I have drop the tank) or is it a replacement issue?? If replacement, where is the best place to go shopping??
Just had mine replaced by the dealer. 3 hours labor to drop the tank at $90 per hour. Only about $50 for the parts if I remember right. More than I wanted to tackle by myself.
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 11:38 PM
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The repair consists of dropping the tank or lifting the bed to access the fuel module on top of the tank. If it is the sending unit that is the problem parts will cost you somewhere between 50 and 70 dollars at the Dodge dealer parts department depending which sending unit is in your truck. Not difficult to do but the fuel line connectors can be a hassle if you are not familiar with how to disengage them. Plenty of information on how to do the job if you search for "fuel sending unit" or "quarter tank syndrome".
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 09:33 AM
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You might check these out before you buy a new one.

http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/fuel...y_C-sender.htm

http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...ml#post2041695

Floyd
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 09:47 AM
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From: MN
If you have two guys i would say lifting the bed it easier, I can have the bed ready to take of in about 20 minutes

6 bolts(short box, 8 on long)
ground strap(front pass corner)
Tail light wiring harness
Fuel filler neck.

Really pretty easy, then I just get my dad to help me lift the box off, the we realized it was alot easier to do with the tractor.
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 10:10 AM
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From: Montana
Even easier, just tilt the bed.
Remove the four bolts on the driver's side and just loosen the passenger side.
Unplug some electrical and remove the tank fill and vent.
Two average size guys can tilt it easily while one wimp props it up with a 2x4.
You only need about 18" of clearance.
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 12:01 PM
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01RAMer's Avatar
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From: Gardners, PA
I just read somewhere that Ford (I believe) has something that you can put into the tank that will clean the corrosion off the contacts. I believe it was in Popular Machanics. People have had great results with it. If I can find teh article I post the product.
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by blackimpala
Good info if your truck has that particular sending unit but mine has the other style sender and needed replacement because it can't be repaired.

Fixable sender:


My unfixable sender:
Name:  Rheostat-1.jpg
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 09:00 PM
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did you try electrical contact cleaner on the area the arrow is point too?
its just a resistor.

-dkenny
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by dkenny
did you try electrical contact cleaner on the area the arrow is point too? its just a resistor.-dkenny
No, the "windings" on the rheostat were worn away and no longer able to carry a signal. It needed replacing.

Two different modules were used on the 2nd gen's and each had it's own type of sending unit so the sending units are not interchangeable between the 2 different modules. The sender in the lower photo is not as durable as the upper one, in fact it's junky and therefore can't be fixed but replacing it for 65 dollars is still lots cheaper than buying a whole new module for over 400 dollars
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Old Apr 8, 2011 | 11:41 AM
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From: Montana
Dodge also blew it with the older style sender, it wasn't compatible with diesel fuel.
Caused the coating on the windings to melt.
Old style senders were improved to be comparable with #2 but there's no way to fix the incompatible style.
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Old Apr 8, 2011 | 06:22 PM
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That's useful information, you'd think someone would have thought of using diesel resistant components in a diesel fuel system
Thanks infidel.
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