on my 99, i started trying to trace a bad fuel gauge. it was good for a long time then one day it just stayed at full. after alot of reading ive narrowed it down to the gauge fuses. points 14 and 17 in the cab fuse box. if i pull 17 my fuel gauge works but i lose my tach speedo and the support gauges no longer read right. as soon as i put 17 back in the fuel pins its self at full, and the rest of the gauges work fine. when i pull 14 nothing happens. is there a ground somewhere? or am i buyin a new cluster?

 

i have not replaced the intank sending unit.
when i went through your diagnostic routine i went from 1 directly to 4. when i pulled my cluster the plugs stayed and appear to be part of the dash frame. they dont follow the bezel out of dash frame work. when you talk about isolating the individual plugs, would you be isolating the plugs in the fuse panel when you pulled fuse 14 or 17?

in step 6 they talk about replacing the gauge, i dont think you can separate the gauge from the gauge cluster. where are the ground points for the fuel system

 

bigiron you must work for chrysler. or you need to do some more reading.
nobody is using the intank pump and the people who do are still killing their vp44s.
i am not dropping my tank because you want me to. my questions pertain to the gauge cluster. when you are ready to talk about that, i would like an intelligent reply.

 

pound sand then

 

if at first you dont succeed remove all evidence that you tried.

 

ruled out actual cluster with odometer button test. any other ideas as to why the gauge will read full? even when it is not connected to sending unit.

 

found it, loose wire in one of the harnesses on the driver side fender.

 

Red Angus
I'm having fuel guage issues, guage full all the time. Did instrument cluster test fuel gauge reads 1/8 1/4 and full during test. I have factory manual but do not know what the actual reading is suppose to be during the test. Could you or someone else let me know.
Thank you

 

there was an ohms listing over on a cummins forum. i didnt have much use for it though. when i did mine it ran something like yours. from what i read as long as it moves its not pooched. the harness that was loose, for me, ran from the ABS block to the ECM (i think). it wasnt the top harness but the bottom smaller one, about 4 or 5 wires in a single row. i never did get the harness out but movin the harness around was enough to get my gauge back.