244 people looked at this post so far, but I didn't receive a single response. So after watching a couple vids on YouTube I just went at it. If you've never removed and replaced a door window in a '94-2000 truck, let me tell you what; It's a piece of cake. Seriously. Once I'd removed the interior trim panel (easy) it became clear what the problem was: The 29 year old adhesive had dried up in the Arizona heat and failed. The glass was just flopping around in there. Ordered a new driver's window off of eBay for $79 shipped and a bag of the "Christmas tree" plugs that hold the interior panel on. They'd also succumbed to the heat and petrified. While I was in there, I cleaned and lubed all of the rollers and slides with white lithium grease and cleaned up the original plastic moisture barrier and taped up any holes or tears. The driver's window works like it was a brand new truck and I can actually see through the glass,, unlike my OEM windows. Got enough plastic plugs to do the passenger side as well and will be ordering that soon.

The secret to getting the window glass in and out is a snap: remove the inner and outer door felts. Undo the two 10mm nuts off of the window bracket at the bottom. Then, as you lift it out, lift the rear of the glass first and bring it up and out of the window opening towards the outside of the truck. Reverse the process with the new glass; lower the front of the glass in first, from the outside, and make sure that you insert the front of the glass into the forward vertical felt before you twist the rear of the window into the rearward vertical felt. My install didn't require any adjustment whatsoever. Also, it didn't require any parts other than the glass. Once again, don't hesitate to get in there and go after it. A shop would likely charge a lot for what turned out to be an 1-1/2 hour job.



My drivers window on my ‘96 2500 started rattling inside the door with the window rolled down. Rolled it up to silence it, next time I rolled it down I heard a plastic crunch and the window stopped 2/3rds of the way down. Up, down, it works again but I get the feeling that the 30 year old plastic pieces have disintegrated to the point of failure. Both sides windows are original and scratched badly. Where can I buy a kit with the glass, felt belt door sweeps and plastic bits in the assemblies?
Thank you.

 

Sorry I missed your original post. I had the same issue except at the other end of the seasons. My drivers window would freeze to the weather seal and when I opened it the glass would stay up and the track would go down. Once temps rose up, window would fall into door...

Try a local auto glass shop for new trac rubber...

Kurt

 

Or search for "Dodge Ram window glass channel clips."

hhttps://www.ebay.com/itm/202942097494?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-166974-028196-7&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=202942097494&targetid= 2304343365564&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=902140 0&poi=&campaignid=22234842140&mkgroupid=1742967311 85&rlsatarget=pla-2304343365564&abcId=10193430&merchantid=101685305& geoid=9021400&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22234842 140&gbraid=0AAAAAD_QDh-yhDAj-7wJaaOeuu49rHUcF&gclid=CjwKCAjwx8nCBhAwEiwA_z__066 h4GETNI3HvFWEKpJ4VrfxVZw26EM8SfkZmNHExZt9KPr_fdmE1 xoCP4UQAvD_BwEere

Kurt

 

That’s a great step-by-step guide clear and confidence-boosting! Removing the felts and lifting the rear of the glass first makes all the difference. It’s good to know that no extra parts or adjustments were needed, just patience and the right order of operations. Definitely a money-saver doing it yourself instead of paying a shop for a relatively straightforward 1.5-hour job.
https://www.mcdowellglass.com/commercial-windows-doors