I'm removing the dash in my '99 since it's cracked with large holes in it and replacing it with a new one. I've taken off bolts that apply and even some that were iffy and I still cannot get that **** thing to tip out. Does anyone have a guide on what bolts need to be removed?

HELP!!

 

Since it's old and your replacing it, have you ever thought about just beating it out with a hammer and maybe finding the other bolts?

 

Been awile but here the things I think of.... drop down or remove the steering column. Remove the a pillar mouldings and the kick panel covers. Upper dash bolts, the ones on the side and you'll find a couple in the center near the abs module. Those two are a little harder to find. Hope this helps.

 

I'd like to do the dash myself here soon... It is just UGLY.

What did t he new dash cost you? Were you able to just get the dash top?

Do you have the Part number ? Does it come colored?

When you put the new one on, put a generous coat of Armor All on it frequently.

 

Part number was 5GK45RC8-AB I/Panel

Cost 194.00

Came colored, I have that light grey dash color.

Just a tip, there is a bolt behind the kick panel on driver and passenger side, just loosen those and let them act like a hinge. Drop the steering wheel, and remove the 2 bolts on the ABS module in the center on the floor (thanks JBody!).

Remove passenger side airbag, 4 10mm bolts, two visible, two more up inside the dash, have to remove the glove box to spot them.

Remove all the screws holding the dash top on, behind the driver side instrument fascia etc.

Then tip the dash down. You may need to unhook the linkage to the emergency brake release as well.

The tough part was that I could not get the dash tipped all the way down in order to get to the screws in the back. I could of I suppose but I'd of had to trace all the various cable bundles in the dash and unclip them, seemed more work then it was worth. If you got a small ratchet like 4-5 inches and a small 2 inch extension you can curve your hand around the front edge of the dash and unscrew/screw those annoying screws along the leading edge that meets the windshield (and I don't mean the visible 5 bolts you can see, the ones inside the dash).

It helps to have someone peer through the windshield and kind of guide where you need to go with the ratchet.

Took me about 2.5 hours start to end, good luck!


edit: BTW I did first check with the state patrol here about the VIN plate. The VIN plate is attached to the dash. It's a huge no-no to remove the vin plate and rivet it back onto the new dash. I don't know about your state but I have to save the old dash/vin plate and bring it into them once I've made an appointment and they rivet a replacement vin plate inside the door. This seemed odd to me since the there is already a VIN inside the door but whatever that's what the man wants. Washington troopers are notorios for their strict protocols though, maybe your state is more relaxed.

 

Jeez, that sounds like a procedure.

 

The discription above was good, but I'll add a few points.

Unplug your neg. cables on the bats for at least 30 minutes b4 you start to kill that airbags.

Before you drop the steering column, be sure you unhook the little cable that goes to the indicater to tell you what gear your in.

When I took my passenger side airbag out, I used some snips and just fractured the old dash around it. Wear saftey glasses. The little sharp peices flew everywhere. What you see sitting in the seat is not the airbag, it's a rubber like cover for it to blow through. it seemed fragile to me. As it moved around I could see the score lines intended to tear when it blows. Be careful handling it. I left it plugged up and just unbolted it and slid it out far enough to get the new dash behind it, and very carefully pushed the tabs into the little holes when reinstalling it. You'll see what I'm talking about.

There are 5 bolts that go across the top. That drops the dash away and allows it to rotate down when everything is clear.

On the back side of the dash there are about 8 screws that secure it to the metal framework. Those are a bugger to get into the new dash. They would be easy if you could take the windsheild out. What i did, was have my son hold a makeup mirror outside the windshield and I looked into that to get them started. i didn't tighten them till they were all started because you have to move things around a bit to gt them all lined up. Also the defroster vents bolt to the bottom of the dash. use the same mirror technique for those.

The last thing, is something i almost overlooked. Your VIN tag is riveted to the dash itself. I almost threw mine away. I had my new dash installed allready so i stuck mine back in place with foam tape. I'm wondering if law inforcemnt will question it if i ever get stopped. You might want to have some pop rivets handy before you start, and carefully rivet the VIN plate to the new dash before installing it. If i would have done this, i would have also colored the rivetts with a sharpie to make it look as un-tampered as possible.

I'll close with I waited till my dash was totally imbarassing to look at because I thought it was going to be a almost impossible, monumental task. it isn't. Take your time, make up a big tall glass of tea, put on a fan and a radio, don't force anything, and you can do it. I beleive i can do one in two hours nor that I've done it.

 

Yea the WSP here said they have a way of knowing if it's not a dealer rivet, if it isn't they assume the car is a revinned stolen and it's impounded until a VIN inspector can investigate. She could of been blowing smoke but I think she was being truthful, because otherwise she was as helpful and informative as could be.

Maybe we have a trooper in the forum that can shed some light.

I completely agree with Charliez, I thought it was going to be a long frustrating job, even my dad, a mechanic since he was 16 and he's 63 now, shot a oh god look when I suggested this job. But it was really not to tough at all.

 

I would do another. I have a freind who lives a couple of hours away, and I have allready agreed to help him replace his if he can get it up this way for a Saturday.

I beleive I have a copy of my receipt whae I purchased the new dash just in case a trooper or others question the VIN tag. The VIN is located inmore places than just the dash. I've been thinking about noting a few of those locations on the receipt.

 

I had the local Dodge dealer order me the replacment cover a couple of weeks ago....listed price was $194.... whined and moaned for a better price....ended up paying $151.48 plus tax...I am still in shock. I am going put it in sometime during the upcoming holiday week.

 

When I take the dash out, can I get to the Heater Core and AC Evap? I think mine is full of dust/dirt and I would like to clean them out.

 

Yes...Once you pull the dash...You will have access to remove the Heater Core and AC Evap...The only issue will be the AC evap....Are you going to disconnect it and re-charge it??? You may have to clean it without removing it..

 

I don't want to remove that, I have some spray that desolves dust, hair whatever and cleans them out.

 

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=229112

 

Everyone has pretty well covered everything, one thing I can add after pulling over a hundred dashes a month in A/C season for a number of years is the last thing to do before the dash comes out or down is to drop the steering wheel column onto the drivers seat, doing this the very last allows access to both sides of the dash from the passenger side.