I'm having serious thoughts of converting my 99 single piston calipers to dual piston calipers as can be found on 2000 and later models. I want to change because even though I don't think I am very hard on the brakes, and they work OK, I am warping rotors, for the third time now; and even though one time is attributable to a stuck caliper, I believe I just do not have enough braking power for my situation. I tow over 10K, and the traile rbrakes work OK, but I still want for better braking, and I believe this is when the warpage gets started. I think that the bigger calipers will help a lot.

I figure I will buy the steering knuckles from a junk yard and buy reman or new calipers from a parts house. The problem I have run into is the ball joint part numbers are different between 99 and 2000. I have been unable to find both ball joints in stock at the same time at my local parts house. I am hoping to not have to buy new ones at the time of conversion.

Does anyone know what the difference in ball joints is, if any?


Thanks,
Chris

 

Did you do the GM rear cylinder swap? Make those rear brakes take some of the load, too!

I honestly don't think that going to a dual piston will help you stop warping brake rotors at all... What does help is when you come to a stop, leave enough room so that every 15 seconds or so, you can let the truck roll about 1/4 of a turn of the tire, and stop again. This prevents the heat from the caliper & pad from overheating that area, while the rest of the rotor cools.

It's harder to prevent warping on an auto vs. a 5-speed, but it can be done.

By the way... Those bumpers you like so much, I do believe are made by Brown's welding in New Braunfels, TX. I have one on the front of my truck, and a rear bumper back at the house (but it's for an '04) (I was looking at your web site)

 

I would definitely try putting in larger rear cylinders first, might be all you need.
Details here> https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...;threadid=46618

 

I have not done the wheel cylinders yet. I have not had any trouble with my back brakes. My brakes are fine now, but I can feel the wheels starting to shimmy when the brakes are applied, meaning the rotors are warping again. I have new calipers on there so they should be good to go. I have not had a chance to pull any wheels yet though.

I drove a 2000 the other day and the brakes felt much better, and that truck hasn't had the wheels cylinders done.

It just seems to me that if the brakes are more effective then I'd be easier on them in general.

Thanks,
Chris

 

That's why they are saying to put on GM wheel cylinders, the front brakes are doing all the stopping and the rear brakes are not doing much. Replace the rear wheel cylinders and the rear brakes will be working a lot harder, the way they should and the fronts will last longer.
I just did this mod last week and it really makes a differance. Replace the front rotors with quality rotors around 100 each, the 50-60 rotors are junk.

 

Forget doing the 2000 and newer calipers, the entire axle is different, the ball joints, knuckles,everything,even the way they mount on the axle is different. Do the rear cyl swap and enjoy,your working the fronts too hard,overheating them while the rears arent even working. BTW your right the 2000 stops much better than the 99,but they also have bigger rear brakes as well, 1" wider pads,but 1" smaller drums to clear the alum rims.

 

Do you have an exhaust brake?? That should take a big load off also.

 

No exhaust brake for me. I thought about it, and researched it, but no one makes an exhaust brake in 5" that I can mount below the second turbo.

John,
Thanks for the info. Usually the changes are minor, just to make it cheaper for manufacturing. I was unaware of the axle differences. Do yo uhave any more specifics on that? Maybe I'll just pick up an entire front axle from a 2000.

Thanks,
Chris

 

the 2000 axles, the knuckle goes on top of the axle, the 99 and older the knuckle comes up from the bottom.The upper ball joints on 2000 and newer is greaseable form the factory,since it is exposed on top. The entire axle swap is def the best bet.

 

You can get a remote 5" exhuast brake from pac brake and mount it in the exhuast system down stream of the turbo.

 

Chris how about upgrading to stainless brake lines when you do some more work?
EGR apparently makes an upgrade package for your truck also.

http://www.egrbrakes.com/index-main.htm

 

First thing I would do if you haul a lot is make sure the proportion valve is disarmed or removed from the rear axle area. Made a big difference on mine, much more braking. To disarm it to try it, just pop the link off the axle and nylon tie it up to the valve housing.

 

Hey Chris,
Try the rear wheel cyl. swap before you switch out your front axle. Might be a hair easier and a little cheaper. Your fronts are obviously taking a beating from doing almost all the braking. Your rears may be fine, but still not working very hard. The larger rears make the braking more even between the front and rear.
Napa #4637337

 

I agree the axle swap isnt necessary, just the cyl. Also i did an EGR conversion,the entire package on a 99, rear disc conversion,front upgrades,braided lines, it still doesnt stop as good as an 01 or 02 with factory rear discs.It is better,but not worth the price, IMO.