Howdy All---

Rolled my truck into a ravine the other day and crushed the cab. Can anyone offer knowledge as to the ins and outs of replacing the cab assembly? I was told by one feller that the job isn't too bad as long as I can find a diesel cab. He gave me the impression that it would involve disconnecting electrical connectors, moving the master cylinder, and unbolting the 6 bolts that hold it on. I'm sure there are other details that would make it not quite as simple as that, but is this generally correct?

Truck is a 95 2500 extended cab, AT, 4x4, totally stock. Does anyone have thoughts as to what cabs might work? I am reasonably certain that 94/95/96 would all be fine, but would 97/98 have a chance? What are some other factors besides the ext cab/4x4/AT/Diesel that I need to take into consideration? Are features like power windows and seats a factor?

What would you all be willing to pay for a cab assembly if you were in my shoes?

Also: Truck landed in the upside-down position (in a stream--she started filling with water) and was of course still running. I busied myself first with extracting my wife and 3 young daughters, then before exited out the sliding rear window I shut it off. It ran for a total of 2 minutes or so in this incorrect orientation. Would this be enough time to do any major damage? I had it towed home and started it up the next day after checking the oil level. It started fine and generated oil pressure normally.

Any other things I need to be thinking about as I go about taking care of the wreckage? I would very much appreciate any ideas!! Thank you!!

 

Fact: Local shop routinely takes the cab off to install extra turbo & access the back of the engine. They use one of those lifts that go under the frame. That's how I'd go.

Supposition: Confirm that the gasser cab is different from diesel. I would expect that they're the same perhaps with some different firewall holes. If they're the same, I'd be tempted to get a gasser with a good body & swap the engine. Check with the DMV but normally, you can swap in whatever = or newer engine you want.

Water: electrical connections can corrode & cause problems. How high was the water?

 

I did it on a '98 Chevy. What the guy told you was correct. I'd try to get the same year, I didn't and there were some slight variations in firewall mounting places. I had 5 friends come over and we were able to lift the extended cab with glass.

I found someone stripping a truck and got mine with glass for $100. It did need a new windshield though.

I would do it myself again if I needed to. It certainly earned me mechanic street cred.

FYI- since I didn't use the same year my #1 tool for the project was a Dremel.

 

A 1995 to 2002 cab will work. I would strip the doner to the bare firewall and use all your dash, electronics, a/c/heater, steering column,wiring etc.

 

I did it on a 74 chevy truck many years ago, really wasnt bad at all. And in general I think he is right. You just have to find everything that is connected and undo it. Brakes, tranny linkage, clutch linkage, electrical connectors, ground straps etc (I would make sure and label each end of whatever has to be undone, nothing worse than trying to put something back together and not quite remember what these items go to) The few bolts holding the cab to the frame will be no problem. I did it without taking the bed off or taking out the engine. I used one of those towable hoists froma rental yard and I had about 1/2 inch of spare space from the lift height. The hoist made it a relatively easy two man job to get it on and off. If you do use a picker make sure it has the height you will need.

 

Thanks for the thoughts, everyone.

Junkman: Your idea regarding the engine swap was my first thought, but after hearing that the cab might be easier I have been focusing more on that. Do you think it would be easier to swap the engine rather than the cab? I can live with the other damage, which is somewhat minimal. I'm not very concerned about appearance.

I don't think the water was high enough to do too much to all the connectors, though I should probably get in there and have a look.

Nitrousn: Thanks for the cab info. I was originally thinking I would try to get a relatively complete cab with everything all in place, but your suggestion sounds like it might be a lot less expensive. Taking out the interior does sound like a much larger job though.....What are your thoughts? Have you removed interiors before?

Thanks again for all of your input. I have homework to do.

bigfatricky

 

It will all depend on what year cab you find and what options it has. The wiring etc. is all different for diesels. Unless you find an exact year cab to swap I what I previously recommended is the way I would go. I know for sure a 1998.5 and newer will be completely different wiring, electronics, etc. A early 1998 back to 1995 could be a direct swap. You would not need to remove all the interior. Interior replacement is easy work.

 

its a pretty simple staright foward job just time consuming. remove the doors and all that before removing the cab. but i mean its pretty much bolt on bolt off.
just mark the steering column in the straight ahead position. mark any wiring you have to disconnect. if you have a digital camera, take pictures of every step. incase you run into trouble go back to the camera, will save you alot of time and help you do the job right.

a breaker bar will help with removing the bolts and nuts holding the cab to the frame. check your body mounts whiel you are at it. if they looked cracked and damaged might as well replace them while you are there.

the interiors are pretty simple too. try and find a bunch of small cardboard boxes or margarin/butter containers and mark them where you got those screws/bolts/nuts from. will help you in the long run with installation and re assembly.

 

Noone adressed his question about the motor running upside down for app. 2 min with no oil pressure. Maybe the OP has determined that the motor is fine. 2 min isn't that long, but It sure aint good. I would determine if motor damage was present before spending time/money on cab replacement.

 

I assumed that folks were not concerned about the running upside down situation because no one mentioned it, but should I be? What would be some things I could do to check for engine damage?

Another question: Is the 2500 important for cab replacement? Are the much more common 1500 cabs the same?

Thanks all!

bigfatricky

 

Wouldn't it be cool if he could use a 1500 cab? He would have everyone scratching their heads asking how in the world he got that Cummins in a 1/2 ton truck. He could go around telling everyone he special ordered it.

Reminds me of the time back in the 60s. A friend put 6-cyl emblems on his car. Of course the engine was a 409 with a 4-spd.