It's about time to bleed the brakes on my '95 2-wd. What's the best way to do it right?

 

I bought this after reading about it on here and I love it, it worked great.
http://www.apexperformance.net/cartg...akebleeder.asp

 

Awwww... I'm a hillbilly... I don't want to have to go out and buy anything right now.

I've got a good right foot, and I've got some brake fluid.

Is there a problem getting the brake fluid past the proportioning valve. Seems to me I had some trouble the last time I did it--which was too long ago I admit.

 

you need speed bleeders, you'll love them

 

start with the wheel furthest from the Master cyl, R-rear, L Rear, R-front, L front.

use a piece of hose on the bleeder(bleeder left open ) submerge hose into container of clear brakefluid (container 1/2 full) slowly depress brake pedal a few times, dirty fluid expelled, no air enters system and its a one man job. tighten bleeder BEFORE removing hose from container

 

Thanks. But is there a problem getting the brake fluid past the proportioning valve? Seems like I had trouble bleeding them the last time, and I thought it might have been the p. valve.

 

Hi Robert,
If you ever have some spare change, check out a Mity Vac.
http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-Brake-...5299119&sr=8-2

It is useful for so many things and will save you hours of time. I have bled brakes, (no need for a helper) clutches, master cylinders and it makes quick work of evacuating fluids from steering pump reservoirs etc. and working with proportioning valves is a breeze. But in the meantime, nickg has given you the best advice. If you keep getting air bubbles when you know there should be no more left, air is creeping in past the bleeder screw threads and you may have to put a little (emphasis on little) Teflon tape on the screw threads. I know that using Teflon tape is frowned upon but sometimes it's the only way to keep a loose bleeder screw from sucking air.

 

I've got a 96 2500 when I changed to the GM wheel cyl. I just gravity bleed mine. put a clear hose on the bleeder and open the bleed screw, watch that the master cyl is full. It takes longer but I move on to something else and just keep an eye on the hose when it comes out clear I move to the next one.

Floyd

 

Problem with the pump the pedal bleeding method is if the master is old pushing the piston down into the part where it never travels can tear up the seals due to the piston being rusty.
New master cylinder time and probably the main cause of problems after folks bleed their brakes. Torn internal seals cause the pedal to slowly creep down with no external fluid leaks.

If you must use the pump the pedal method at least put a 2x4 under the brake pedal so the pedal only travels down to it's normal braking level, not all the way to the floor.

I use a vacuum pump similar to the Mity Vac, easier and safer than the pump the pedal method plus you can use the pump for testing vacuum systems, sucking out PS fluid, etc.
Most auto parts carry a cheaper version than the Mity for around $20, well worth it.

 

I did them this afternoon with just my right foot and a set of Speedbleeders. I didn't read the last few posts before I did them... hopefully I didn't tear the rubber piston seals, cause I didn't use a 2X4. We shall see I suppose. Afterwards I had a good strong pedal--hopefully it will stay that way. I'll let you know.

 

Watching many HP programs on Spike TV, and during these shows, when they bleed the brakes, they always start closest to the master cylinder, and work there way to the passenger side rear. I use a vacuum type syringe to remove as much of the old brake fluid from the sump prior to starting, then I add the new fluid to the master cylinder, and away we go. Do this about every 2 to 3 years.

 

When I went to trades school,(its been a few yrs) always taught to start at the furthest from MC,

that being said its only air and if you bleed enough you will get it out

 

http://www.phoenixsystem.com/
http://www.phoenixsystem.com/product...ke_bleeder.htm

 

Use a pressure bleeder and you'll never go back.