Been using a light coat of anti-seize on my wheel lugs...Now I'm being told this is a no-no because it effects the torque specs on the wheel nuts..

What you guys think??? Should I quit using it on the lug nuts??

Been using it between the dually rims...Found when I bought the truck 6 years ago...The dually steel rims where rusted together...What a pain to get off...Now I'm using it between the steel and aluminum rims..

 

iv been useing it on the lugs of everything I own for over 15 years, some say it can cause lug nuts to come loose but iv never had a issue and it sure makes things nice during tire change time. I always thought the friction between the nut flange and the wheel is what keeps it on and not the threads. If anything you would get the correct torque with anti-seize rather than rust deposits accounting for 10 foot pounds of torque. I under torque lugs as well, my friends think im crazy and swear I will loose a tire someday but here I am, rotors never warp either.
I torque my dodge diesel to around 90 ftlb
toyota truck 80
honda civic 50

 

I was always told to run lugs dry, but I put anti sieze on just about everything else.

Torque specs for my truck is 150# for lugs. 90# seems a little light but if it is working that's good.

 

Yes, it will make a difference in torque but, to me, not enough to worry about. They have torque charts that compensates for lubed fasteners.

Floyd

 

Hi Floyd...Would you mine posting the extra torque for lubed lug nuts..Or you may know off hand...Would it be a extra 2 to 5 ft/lbs??

I contacted Visions wheels about the torque specs on their aluminum rims...Wow....They want me to torque the rims to 145 ft/lbs...,which seems alot for aluminum rims with acorn nuts..

 

I have read that it is a no no as well, and thinking about it, I agree with not putting it on.

I do put it on the rim back to keep it for seizing to the rotor.

I was soaking the lugs in some WD40 while I had them off, drying them off real good before I put them back on. That seems to help.

 

What happens when you get a bunch of engineers discussing the exact same question...?


http://www.engineersedge.com/wwwboard/posts/13070.html


Debates that basically say that it won't hurt anything if done correctly.

Regarding the article at the link directly above, it seems it was not the use of anti seize that was causing failure of the helicopter rotor bolts, but rather the improper application of anti seize that was causing failure, namely applying anti seize under the bolt head or nut instead of only applying it to the fastener threads. Applying anti seize under the bolt heads and/or nuts increased axial loads substantially. It also appears Tightening by turning the bolt instead of, as specified, the nut, resulted in more torque going into bolt tension rather than being absorbed by bolt head friction.


At the http://www.boltscience.com website, they say that it is actually transverse joint movement that causes loosening of threaded fasteners. In the case of a wheel, friction between the wheel and the hub prevent traverse movement. The friction is generated by the axial force generated by the torqued lug nuts.
Because of traverse movement causing joint loosening, it's probably best to not use anti seize or any lube on the back side of the rim where it contacts the rotors, hub, or brake drums.

 

my experience tells me that anti-seize makes real dirty threads that should be cleaned before removal, otherwise the nuts can jam on the studs and be hard to remove....so i usually squirt penetrating oil on them and hit them with a wire brush

 

After sleeping on it I decided loosing a wheel on the road would/could be a catastrophic mishap, so I would leave my lugs dry.

I have placed it on the axle on the dually rims on the Ford. The inners get corroded to the axle housing and need a beating to get off.

 

My previous truck owner left his dry. The studs snapped off when I serviced the brakes.

My newer truck (sold the other one) I put a light coat of oil on the threads only and allow it to dry such as teflon spray or wd, paying particular attention to not get it on the lug nuts or rims. Torque them to 100 ft lbs and I've not had one singe issue doing so.

 

X2. Anti-seize collects dirt in the exposed threads and does dry up over the years then try and get the nuts off. The torque specs that are supplied are "dry" torques and if torquing the same nut using a "wet" torque you would have to increase the torque significantly to get the same tightness. Many things are wet torqued but it's specified to coat the threads with whatever then torque to a certain torque. Wheels are important things and it's never good to lose one from anything, especially the BBQ at supper time.

 

Thanks guys....I will clean up my treads with thinner and re-torque them dry..

 

That works too.

According to this article, you'll be fine in doing so, lubricant (anti-seize) on the threads ONLY decreases axial load on the nuts. For me, this also provides a means for protecting the threads from damage during future removal and prevents thread galling on future removals

The chart 2/3 down the link explains this in detail

http://www.mechanicsupport.com/articleTorqueWrench.html

 

This is not true, it is "standard practice" to torque dry unless specified, and when it is specified it also says what and how to apply to the fastener or fitting.

 

I've gauled too many by bolting them up dry. I use a smidge of antiseize on mine for 20 years now. No issues at all.