I installed the Vulcan fuel pump relo kit a couple of days ago, and it went OK, but I have a question: Why does the kit NOT use the right-angle banjo fittings? The kit I got from Geno's Garage has 3 straight flare fittings that a swivel hose barb screws on to. Seems to me that it'd be as good or better to just use the old banjo fittings, perhaps with wormgear clamps instead of those darned spring thingys.

To do the above job, I had to have the tank below 1/4 full. As I had about 145 miles on it since fillup, I figured it was probably down about 10 gallons from full. Pumped out another 20 gallons, leaving about 5 gallons in the tank. Vulcan install went according to plan, so I checked the guage; it said nearly 1/2 full. Pumped in 10 gallons and it rose to about 3/4 full. Yet, it should be reading a bit below half, if my calculations are close to correct. I noticed while driving the truck for the couple thousand miles that I've owned it that it hangs on "full" for a long time, then drops more rapidly than it should. This is quite different from my 1994 CTD, that guage is nearly linear.

Is it possible to install a resistor in the guage circuit to make the guage less-optimistic? Has anyone else done this? It seems like I could splice in my sub box, spin the dials until the guage reads what it should, and go from there...??

 

I don't know about the fuel gauge, but the AN fittings with the Vulcan kit are less restrictive to fuel flow; therefore, better for the fuel system. More fuel flow, and less pressure drop.

 

you could just bend the float arm.

 

you could just bend the float arm.

Well, except for having to drop the tank, maybe several times to get it right. :-(

Thanks for the info on the fittings!!

 

My stock 2001 fuel gauge does the same thing, hangs on F for a long tiem and then heads south quickly.

 

same with my 02. i'll be driving along with 300 km on the trip odo and 3/4 of a tank left thinking to myself oh ya this thing gets amazing miallege. than when i get to half a tank im at 400 km.

 

The new Vulcan fittings have FAR less restriction than the banjo fittings. Those spring type clamps grip all the way around the hose and keep the connection tight as the hose shrinks and settles. Worm clamps don't apply uniform pressure around the hose, particularly under the worm mechanism. That is why no OEM supplies worm clamps.

 

jack one side of the bed, pull the module and tweak the arm. drop the mod in and check it before the bed is lowered. you can do it in 5 minutes with the bed up.

 

My '01 does the same. Read that they all do. 100mi to 150mi it finally starts to drop fast. Never tried to mess with the float. Installed fass with the an fittings. No banjo fittings or stock filter. Less restriction on fuel flow. After the fass, edge comp, airaid intake, 4" MBRP, and larger injectors I got better mpg. Now it runs great. No more VP44 problems. Only had to go through 5 VP's and 7 lift pumps before I got smart and made the changes. Hope this info helps.