I am about to replace my rotors for the third time in 80K. They keep warping. Installed the Chevy 1 ton cylinders in the rear drums a while ago but that does not seem to help. Had the rotors turned a couple of times but that is pretty useless as well. I live on Oahu so much of my driving is up and down the mountains and hillsides. Any suggestions?

 

Have you replaced/lubed your calipers? A hanging caliper can cause drag and overheat rotors.

I use stock Dodge/Chrysler pads on mine and they seem to hold up the best and relatively cheaper than aftermarket,

 

Also, what brand rotors are you buying? Hate to say it, but not all replacement rotors are created equal, and severe service just makes it that much worse.

 

try some Brembo rotors or napa premium rotors cheepo is not the way to go and like was said change and lube the calipers/slides

 

I too went threw 2 sets of autostore rotors and they all wapred in 10k or less so I got upset and ordered the same EBC slotted rotors with EBC green pads that I use on my ZX10R and Subaru WRX, I now can glow em red stopping 20K and they wont warp! well worth the money

 

http://www.amazon.com/EBC-Brakes-GD7...1&s=automotive

 

your going to have to learn to keep driving long enough to allow the brakes to cool off after you come down the mountain. you do not want to stop and park while your brakes are hot. that will warp rotors every time, I don't care what brand they are or where they are made. I have sold tons of rotors to people with this issue. happens All the time to people that don't know any better.

 

After spending a fortune trying to stop my '98.5, a Pacbrake finally did it. If you're lucky enough to own a manual that would be a good move.

 

Uneven lug torque, or holding the brakes hard at a stop while rotors are red also can warp the best of them. This is the sign as we start down the 8 mile hill from our hunting unit- Elevetion at the top is over 10,000 feet and only 900 feet at the bottom! I hauled a 20k Hitachi EX90 up and down this several times this summer as we dug watering holes for wild game. Cycleing betwen trailer brakes and truck brakes and locked down in 1st and sometimes even useing 4lo 2nd gear is the only way to keep the brakes from failing. They are still glowing red and able to light a cig off em when we reach the bottom every time! We carry a air wrench, welding gloves, jack and CO2 extinguisher just in case the trailer brakes set fire to the hubs! The EBC rotors still have not warped yet

 

are you saying that you stop and park this truck while the rotors are hot after coming down the grade mentioned and they have not warped? or do you continue driving and allow the rotors to cool off before parking?

 

the first trip I stopped at the bottom and quickly checked everything out but figured heat soaking the internals of the calipers and turning the axle greese to liquid (it was slung all over the Trailer wheels) is a poor idea so the 3 other trips I allowed them to cool and checked everything over 2 miles down the road at the first large flat (no need for e brake) pull off- they are still very stinky still lots of heat even at this point. Next year the owner of the EX90 will be back from Guam where he is building a hospital for the navy and his Chev Dirtymax handles the grade better with the Alisson and exahust brake thus Takeing the stress off of my ageing CTD and tiny front disks

 

Is this in OR? I've never seen a 17% grade sign anywhere I have been in OR which is certainly not everywhere.

 

This one is on California State Route 4

 

Holy cow, I couldnt imagen 24%! 2wd trucks pulling any load would need a locker on wet pavement. I have to use 4wd on wet 17% sections if I have any less than 500lb toung weight

 

Where at exactly? I am taking a trip out there next spring and am looking to rent a hot car and go play.
To the OP, try adjusting your rears a smidge tighter, and make very sure that the calipers, pistons, slides etc are very free moving. It is possible to get a rebuild kit for the calipers that will allow you to hone out the calipers to let the pistons move freely. You really need them to release nice in the hills. Rolling easy a few miles to cool them after a serious hill is also sound advice. Use lube specific for brake slides, not just never-sieze. Never sieze can actually hinder the components from sliding freely when it gets too hot.