Won't start after changing fuel filter
03-30-2009, 09:44 AM
#16
Registered User
You will waste time and money using the Carter pumps period as they all will fail. Do it right the first time and put on an Air Dog or FASS and not worry about it anymore. Seems expensive now, but it is cheap compared to the multiple Carter and Holley's and whatever else you put on there.
03-30-2009, 05:54 PM
#17
Registered User
Well, thanks everyone for their advice. As it turns out, I definitely had air in the injector lines. I loosened three of the injector lines, did the starter bump several times until fuel started leaking out of them, and buttoned them back down. It took several cranking cycles, but it finally fired up. I now have a CEL on, but that's probably either due to low battery voltage from so much cranking or low fuel pressure or something. I'm gonna let it charge up, go for a ride and leave it run, and then see if the CEL goes out.
BTW, I really like that 2 pump set-up, johnh. What brand/model# pump did you use, and did you just extend the wiring harness all the way down there from the stock LP's location? I still think my LP is giving less than optimal pressure, and I think your set-up is the easiest to work on than the stock LPs location. Let me know when you get a chance. Thanks.
And again, thanks to everyone who chimed in here. IT'S ALIVE!
BTW, I really like that 2 pump set-up, johnh. What brand/model# pump did you use, and did you just extend the wiring harness all the way down there from the stock LP's location? I still think my LP is giving less than optimal pressure, and I think your set-up is the easiest to work on than the stock LPs location. Let me know when you get a chance. Thanks.
And again, thanks to everyone who chimed in here. IT'S ALIVE!
i extended the wires to the length i needed.......... you probably can't get the campaign pumps any more,at least at the price i paid.
the feature about these pumps is if it fails, the VP44 will draw fuel thru it.therefore not killing the engine.... also the pump kit came with a low pressure switch and instructions
03-31-2009, 11:32 PM
#18
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johnh: did you wire your Carter pump to run all the time, with switched ignition or with a separate switch, or did you just wire it into the stock LP's wiring, so that it only comes on when the starter engages and then for a few seconds after? Or does the stock LP stay on all the time, too? I don't think it does, but I could be wrong.
TIA
TIA
04-01-2009, 11:56 PM
#19
Registered User
johnh: did you wire your Carter pump to run all the time, with switched ignition or with a separate switch, or did you just wire it into the stock LP's wiring, so that it only comes on when the starter engages and then for a few seconds after? Or does the stock LP stay on all the time, too? I don't think it does, but I could be wrong.
TIA
TIA
after the engine starts it runs all the time to supply the VP44 with 14 psi at an idle and 6 psi wot
04-02-2009, 07:35 AM
#20
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I got a campain pump from cummins about a yr ago, a friend bought a truck that needed a pump, he tried getting a campain pump and was told by the local cummins dealer that there were none to be found, cummins part guy said they went like hot cakes, you might be lucky in a smaller town to find one, and if you do buy as many as you can, no matter what pump you instal you NEED a gauge or at the least a warning light. I'm going to bet your pump is so weak, its likely not feeding your IP with enough psi to adquately keep the VP happy.
12-09-2017, 10:36 AM
#21
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2001 Ram 5.9 diesel
Well, thanks everyone for their advice. As it turns out, I definitely had air in the injector lines. I loosened three of the injector lines, did the starter bump several times until fuel started leaking out of them, and buttoned them back down. It took several cranking cycles, but it finally fired up. I now have a CEL on, but that's probably either due to low battery voltage from so much cranking or low fuel pressure or something. I'm gonna let it charge up, go for a ride and leave it run, and then see if the CEL goes out.
BTW, I really like that 2 pump set-up, johnh. What brand/model# pump did you use, and did you just extend the wiring harness all the way down there from the stock LP's location? I still think my LP is giving less than optimal pressure, and I think your set-up is the easiest to work on than the stock LPs location. Let me know when you get a chance. Thanks.
And again, thanks to everyone who chimed in here. IT'S ALIVE!
BTW, I really like that 2 pump set-up, johnh. What brand/model# pump did you use, and did you just extend the wiring harness all the way down there from the stock LP's location? I still think my LP is giving less than optimal pressure, and I think your set-up is the easiest to work on than the stock LPs location. Let me know when you get a chance. Thanks.
And again, thanks to everyone who chimed in here. IT'S ALIVE!
12-09-2017, 05:22 PM
#22
Registered User
Get a fuel pressure gauge for the A-pillar and a FASS Titanium to replace the marginal stock lift pump. My truck has never run better since using the FASS. Smooth, slightly quieter and better mileage.
View the videos.
http://www.fass-fuel-systems.com/fass-titanium/
View the videos.
http://www.fass-fuel-systems.com/fass-titanium/
12-09-2017, 05:43 PM
#23
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Hello John I have the exact same issue with my truck, 2001 5.9 i change the fuel filter and follow the step that most guys who own the same year and the same engine, after I change the fuel filter, turn the keys 6 time to let fuel go into the housing but I'm very sure I got air into the lines and now I'm having hard time start it, I know I need to disconnect at least 3 injector in order to release the air from the lines, can you tell exactly how you did it? Thank you in advance, by the I'm a new on this forum and also on cummings.
12-09-2017, 08:39 PM
#24
Banned
No such thing as a cummings in your dodge its a cummins. If you reread your post you'll find your grammar is hard to follow and will make getting an accurate responce more difficult.
It makes no difference which one is opened first last or third. It often only takes 2 or 3 of the injection lines to purge the air from the system yet sometimes it helps to take all 6 loose to purge the air out.
It makes no difference which one is opened first last or third. It often only takes 2 or 3 of the injection lines to purge the air from the system yet sometimes it helps to take all 6 loose to purge the air out.
12-09-2017, 09:58 PM
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Sorry about the grammar but I was using the autocorect system and I didn't pay attention in some words, but I already understood the procedure on the injectors, what I would to know the step by step you took to solve the whole problem.
Thank you again for your quick response.
Thank you again for your quick response.
12-11-2017, 10:07 AM
#26
Administrator
If you are sure that you have fuel to the IP, then all you really have to do is loosen about 3 lines just enough for the air to bleed out, once she is running, tighten the lines at the Injector, you need a 19 MM wrench. If I remember correctly, 1,2 and 4 were the easiest to get to on the 24 valve.
12-11-2017, 10:42 AM
#27
Registered User
I never lost prime when changing the stock fuel filter on my 24 valve. Am I missing something?
I did have an issue with the Fleetguard o-ring being a bit skinny and leaking. The Napa filter included o-ring was a bit fatter and never leaked.
I did have an issue with the Fleetguard o-ring being a bit skinny and leaking. The Napa filter included o-ring was a bit fatter and never leaked.
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