Where to start, fuel leak I think???
Where to start, fuel leak I think???
I just returned from a 2400 mile trip with our 7k TT in tow and my fuel mileage stunk to say the least, best of 10mpg, normally I get at least 12-13 towing in the rockies and this was flat land Kansas, Nebraska, Iowa and Minnesota. Now just before we left I had removed and reinstalled the EZ and I guess I bumped the water in fuel lever and found a puddle of fuel the morning we left, shut the lever and no more drip, problem solved I thought.
There is only diesel smell when the engine is running and at a stop, once shut off no drips starts fine every time unless I fill at a high flow station, not the big nozzles but just a fast flow, it's like it has to fill the filter canister again but I'll leave it off overnight and it will start just like normal only problem at fillups. I filled up several times on this trip and only 3 times all high flow pumps did this happen. But throughout the entire trip the mileage was garbage, I originally was going to blame the B15 and B20 sold in KS, IA and MN but I got real fuel again here in CO and was only to get 9.8MPG hand calculated. We were traveling at speeds we always travel at and slower so speed was not a factor, winds were calm, cruse set 90% of the time and no extended idle except before shutting off for fuel stops (5 minutes tops)
Gauges all read good, 16~17 psi fuel cruising WOT 13psi. Up to 30 psi boost, pyro all good never above 1200 and normally about 900-1000. But there is a new diesel smell at stops but I can't find the leak?
Ideas where to start or how to diagnose??
Oh ya, no codes with the key trick.
Thanks.
There is only diesel smell when the engine is running and at a stop, once shut off no drips starts fine every time unless I fill at a high flow station, not the big nozzles but just a fast flow, it's like it has to fill the filter canister again but I'll leave it off overnight and it will start just like normal only problem at fillups. I filled up several times on this trip and only 3 times all high flow pumps did this happen. But throughout the entire trip the mileage was garbage, I originally was going to blame the B15 and B20 sold in KS, IA and MN but I got real fuel again here in CO and was only to get 9.8MPG hand calculated. We were traveling at speeds we always travel at and slower so speed was not a factor, winds were calm, cruse set 90% of the time and no extended idle except before shutting off for fuel stops (5 minutes tops)
Gauges all read good, 16~17 psi fuel cruising WOT 13psi. Up to 30 psi boost, pyro all good never above 1200 and normally about 900-1000. But there is a new diesel smell at stops but I can't find the leak?
Ideas where to start or how to diagnose??
Oh ya, no codes with the key trick.
Thanks.
Let me edit. No codes when we left IA but now I have a
P0234 Turbocharger Overboost Condition
and the P01963 code in a code. I think I will check my EZ connections again. Anyone have an EZ fail and give these codes? Power did seem low but again we were packed for 10 days of travel so I just expected the extra weight.
But again on the fuel mileage question, if there is/was a faulty wire on the EZ why would the fuel mileage drop so and the smell on stops and hard starts on filling???
Anyone?
P0234 Turbocharger Overboost Condition
and the P01963 code in a code. I think I will check my EZ connections again. Anyone have an EZ fail and give these codes? Power did seem low but again we were packed for 10 days of travel so I just expected the extra weight.
But again on the fuel mileage question, if there is/was a faulty wire on the EZ why would the fuel mileage drop so and the smell on stops and hard starts on filling???
Anyone?
Sorry for multiple posts but I just redid all the connections on the EZ. The ONLY connection that could have been incorrect was the data link connection, is it possible to have it upside down and still have the truck run
? I tried it both ways but it will only "click" in on the right position. Could I have really driven 2400 miles with it not installed correctly
I don't think so but I was really rushed when I reinstalled it.
I would really deserve the idiot of the month award if I did that, no need to send an award, I already lost over $200 in fuel I was budgeting. So if I did, that would explain the over boost code and it was over fueling adding no timing correct, but the diesel smell while idling?
Someone make sense of my ramblings yet?
I think I just admitted I'm an idiot but not positive yet.
? I tried it both ways but it will only "click" in on the right position. Could I have really driven 2400 miles with it not installed correctly
I don't think so but I was really rushed when I reinstalled it.I would really deserve the idiot of the month award if I did that, no need to send an award, I already lost over $200 in fuel I was budgeting. So if I did, that would explain the over boost code and it was over fueling adding no timing correct, but the diesel smell while idling?
Someone make sense of my ramblings yet?
I think I just admitted I'm an idiot but not positive yet.
Could be the EZ for the power, code issue.
The fuel smell will linger long after a spill if you don't clean it up. You come to a stop, the warm air rises and it's pulled into the vents.
I would get some engine brite shot on everything and see if that helps. It will also help to identify any leaks.
Dave
The fuel smell will linger long after a spill if you don't clean it up. You come to a stop, the warm air rises and it's pulled into the vents.
I would get some engine brite shot on everything and see if that helps. It will also help to identify any leaks.
Dave
I would look at the Edge or the connection at the MAP sensor for the cause of the P0234 code. But if your are running up to 30 psi of boost the Edge is probably working OK. Might be hard to say how long that code has been present.
For the diesel smell, I would hand over hand the fuel lines. Both the supply and the tank return. Check the top of the tank, look for dust build-up or wet areas (etc...). If that does not work, like F2D4U says, clean everything up really well and start over.
I had a few small leaks after re-doing my fuel system. I never got any diesel smell that I noticed.
Jim
For the diesel smell, I would hand over hand the fuel lines. Both the supply and the tank return. Check the top of the tank, look for dust build-up or wet areas (etc...). If that does not work, like F2D4U says, clean everything up really well and start over.
I had a few small leaks after re-doing my fuel system. I never got any diesel smell that I noticed.
Jim
I think it's 5 cey cycle starts with no trip resets it.
Dave
Thanks everyone, I reattached the EZ last night but for the life of me think everything was connected correctly, can you actually reverse the data link connection? My 02 has the 3 flat pin plug. As for the smell I'll buy it needs a good cleaning, will do that this weekend.
What has me more concerned was the hard start after fueling. It happened only 3 of the 10 fills on the trip and they were all high flowing pumps but small nozzle if that makes sense. The EZ is "supposed" provide boost fooling so the 234 code will go away "if" the EZ is good correct, what about the 1963 code. I'm going to try to run to Auto Zone tomorrow and get that code read.
Any ideas on the hard start, I would start it like normal after a fill up and it wouldn't start, I'm used to turn the key for maybe 2 seconds if that and it fires up. I do that after a fill up and just hear the LP running, start it up again and it would take anywhere from 20 to 30 seconds but it would always start. It's like it's loosing prime but ONLY when shut off and at a fill up, never a problem if left overnight.
What about fuel getting pushed through the return line from the walbro causing a slight siphon effect until the pump could correct the flow???
Truck shut off every fill up.
Thanks again.
What has me more concerned was the hard start after fueling. It happened only 3 of the 10 fills on the trip and they were all high flowing pumps but small nozzle if that makes sense. The EZ is "supposed" provide boost fooling so the 234 code will go away "if" the EZ is good correct, what about the 1963 code. I'm going to try to run to Auto Zone tomorrow and get that code read.
Any ideas on the hard start, I would start it like normal after a fill up and it wouldn't start, I'm used to turn the key for maybe 2 seconds if that and it fires up. I do that after a fill up and just hear the LP running, start it up again and it would take anywhere from 20 to 30 seconds but it would always start. It's like it's loosing prime but ONLY when shut off and at a fill up, never a problem if left overnight.
What about fuel getting pushed through the return line from the walbro causing a slight siphon effect until the pump could correct the flow???
Truck shut off every fill up.
Thanks again.
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Still sounds like you have a pinhole leak in the fuel lines to me. Could be at a hose to fitting, a swivel or any of many other places.
The EX will cap the boost signal, but if the MAP reads bad, it can't cover that up.
To get a bad MAP value, it pretty much has to be open or closed. So, the code is usually a pretty good indicator that it's shot.
A bad MAP will kill milage and power.
Dave
The EX will cap the boost signal, but if the MAP reads bad, it can't cover that up.
To get a bad MAP value, it pretty much has to be open or closed. So, the code is usually a pretty good indicator that it's shot.
A bad MAP will kill milage and power.
Dave
To to recap your thread in my reading, I get confused easily
.
You think my MAP sensor is bad and needs replaced and I still have a small leak somewhere.
How does one test a MAP sensor, is it by resistance, ohms etc. I don't mind spending money if necessary replacing parts and it makes sence as it's original and 76k but the hard start, where you calling the small pin hole leak the problem for that? I'd only buy that if it were on the pressure side. No visibal leak and the smell I honestly didn't notice today, we've been getting some pretty heavy rain and I drove about 50 miles in a storm of storms so the engine area got a good washing. I'll report back tomorrow if I notice any smell, also about the 1693 code.
Thanks again.
.You think my MAP sensor is bad and needs replaced and I still have a small leak somewhere.
How does one test a MAP sensor, is it by resistance, ohms etc. I don't mind spending money if necessary replacing parts and it makes sence as it's original and 76k but the hard start, where you calling the small pin hole leak the problem for that? I'd only buy that if it were on the pressure side. No visibal leak and the smell I honestly didn't notice today, we've been getting some pretty heavy rain and I drove about 50 miles in a storm of storms so the engine area got a good washing. I'll report back tomorrow if I notice any smell, also about the 1693 code.
Thanks again.
A buddy and I built a "tester" for MAP sensors. Basically, it's a few fittings strung together to allow us to apply regulated air pressure.
At the same time, we apply a fixed 1 volt. This way we can take readings of change in air pressure. I don't have the readings, but you could also use an ohmeter to get similar results.
The factory MAP can read up to around 60PSI.
Regarding the potential leak. I would suspect something on the suction side, not the pressure side.
The pressure side has a built in leak at the VP44. The overflow valve has an air bleed drilled in it to aid in pushing air out of he factory system. If you have a leak on teh suction side, it could very easily lose prime. Also, you won't notice a leak as there is no pressure on that side of the circut. Well, there may be a small leak, but I would be looking for no leak.
You could put the fuel system on a vacuum tester and try to see if it will hold vacuum. If it does, the issue is somewhere else. If not, spray some brake cleaner on teh lines until you find it. My gut says to look at the fuel inlet connection real hard.
Dave
Dave
At the same time, we apply a fixed 1 volt. This way we can take readings of change in air pressure. I don't have the readings, but you could also use an ohmeter to get similar results.
The factory MAP can read up to around 60PSI.
Regarding the potential leak. I would suspect something on the suction side, not the pressure side.
The pressure side has a built in leak at the VP44. The overflow valve has an air bleed drilled in it to aid in pushing air out of he factory system. If you have a leak on teh suction side, it could very easily lose prime. Also, you won't notice a leak as there is no pressure on that side of the circut. Well, there may be a small leak, but I would be looking for no leak.
You could put the fuel system on a vacuum tester and try to see if it will hold vacuum. If it does, the issue is somewhere else. If not, spray some brake cleaner on teh lines until you find it. My gut says to look at the fuel inlet connection real hard.
Dave
Dave
2500ram., Have you found your leak yet. I am going to drop my tank and perhaps put in a draw straw to see if that fixes my hard start.
Fishin2deep4u has a good post. I just put in a check valve after my LP, it did not solve the problem, just helped a bit.
I think what he is saying is right, because there will still be fuel in my lines after the check valve that is after my LP, but it still cranks and cranks after sitting overnight, so there is still air getting in,,, I think when I turn the key on first, the LP is drawing fuel up from the tank, and pushing the air bubble that was between the tank and the LP up all the way to the VP, then When the wait to start light goes out, and I crank her over, it still has to expel the little air that did get in the line. My LP is only 3 feet of fuel line from my tank.... the check valve is right after the LP..
If you find your problem please post in a sticky...
Fishin2deep4u has a good post. I just put in a check valve after my LP, it did not solve the problem, just helped a bit.
I think what he is saying is right, because there will still be fuel in my lines after the check valve that is after my LP, but it still cranks and cranks after sitting overnight, so there is still air getting in,,, I think when I turn the key on first, the LP is drawing fuel up from the tank, and pushing the air bubble that was between the tank and the LP up all the way to the VP, then When the wait to start light goes out, and I crank her over, it still has to expel the little air that did get in the line. My LP is only 3 feet of fuel line from my tank.... the check valve is right after the LP..
If you find your problem please post in a sticky...
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