So I think I have tracked my clunk in my front end down too the bar on the front end that the steering stabilizer bolts too it has a tremendous amount of play in it and makes a clunk when i roll it back and forth. I cannot find the part in my fsm any one know? could this also be part of my funky steering?

 

sounds like your describing a tie rod. I had a clunk sound too. After i replaced the tack bar and tie rods the clunk was removed and an improved steering.

 

How come I cant find information on tie rods in my fsm am I looking in the wrong spot I really would like too know why this thing is so loose and I can rock it back and forth and how too go about fixing it.

 

Here is a thread you may want to check out.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=195102

 

So whats all involved in changing the tie rod end there is only one or is there one on each side??? I can grab the tie rod bar and can rotate it with ease and thats just not right that I can see and change the ball stud on the other end of the drag link? Just undoing the sleeves and reinstalling the new ends and get a alignment? and also witch should I go with spicer or moog

 

The tie rods need to have some play to rotate w/ the steering geometry. The longest bar with the hole in it for the other tierod on the passenger side was clunking on mine after the levelling kit. The new one is stiffer but doesn't have a zerk on it, its a sealed one.

If you swap it out you may need to get the toe checked and adjusted. You can pre-measure between the front wheels somewhere to get it close before you take it apart.

Kurt

 

Pickle fork will be the only real specialty tool...and a hammer. Or you could borrow a tie-rod end puller from a parts store...usually it's free but you have to pay for the kit up front and you get your money back when you return it.

Other than that, pretty self explanitory. You'll need the drag link, tie-rod end, and a sleeve with two clamps...go with Moog. When you pull the old one off, measure it with a tape-measure and assemble the new one to the same length...that'll get you close enough to straight that you can drive it to an alignment shop.