I had the privileged to own a 97 12valve 4x4 for almost a year. I came dangerously close to losing my job, and having to take a job almost 2 hours from home with no pay increase (probably decrease), and so we sold the truck for a car (picked up a 07 VW Jetta...gasser with what I got off the truck)

Turned out, the entire thing was based off of fear on my boss' part (even though our company is still hurting badly from the economy.

So now that it seems we're coming out of the storm, I want to get another Cummins. Obviously putting around in a car versus a 8k truck is not the same.

I loved my 12 Valve, and never had problems with it other than standard stuff (like alternator...replaced the original one at 192k). But now I'd like to have those 4 doors, and a short bed rather than long bed, plus a little bit more power. I'm not really looking to get into the 3rd gen price range with the truck, plus I love the 2nd gen body style.

So what it comes down to is the engine. I know about the nv4500 and its issues, but I really want to know if it would be worth getting the 24 valve with the vp44 problems. I'm of course up for the challenge of replacing it if need be...but normally when these things happen I'm in a tight spot (like out of town or something) and I don't want a huge towing bill if I can avoid it.

I don't plan on mods other than intake exhaust type things. I'm not a programmer type of guy. So gents, what do you think? Am I asking for trouble? should I be fine with a 24 valve? Or should I search for another 12'er?

I've been here at DTR for a while, but never ventured much into this section....

 

Your money....your choice!
If you loved your 12v, you could P-Pump a 24v and have best of both worlds.

VP-44's don't scare me. Usually once every 100,000+ miles and they usually give some warning.

RJ

 

I would look long and hard for a '98 12v before committing to a 24v truck. You only get 20hp more in a 24v over a 12v, and that is easily compensated for with a plate.

 

Interesting, does anyone have a "how to" to convert to a P-Pump?

I've seen one or two 98 12v's around here, but not many.

 

1st gen!

 

mine gave no warning at all ...i pulled in to fuel up and would not start...........

 

I hear you!
My point is, that we hear about every one of those horror stories about being stuck on the side of the road, etc.
I have no statistical data but remain convinced that for every one like yours, there are 10-15 that die in stages.
Several members here are still on their factory VP-44 at 150,000 miles so it appears there are no predictable failure levels.
I just installed my second replacement (at 200,000 miles) but all three gave warning signs.
Guess that means I'm due for a dead truck this time around?

RJ

 

Like johnh, mine gave no warning at all, pulled into subway one evening didn't work again. Because of that, I'm pretty ticked with the truck, not to mention a wheel bearing went out the day after I got the VP installed. Not a happy camper with the way dodge went about designing the 99's.

 

My cost per mile for 'surprise' maintenance on my 8 yr old CTD is lower than any vehicle I ever owned....
AND I never kept one this long!
When they do pop up, they tend to be more expensive than the same repair on a gas truck .
But Dodge gets no complaints from me!

RJ

 

like wise...so far so good. Only wish I could fit an adult COMFORTABLE in the backseat.

 

A midget adult should fit comfortably . . .

 

I'd prefer a 12V but get whatever you can find at a good price that is a good truck. I only pay cash which helps me determine 1) how bad I want it and 2) Can I afford it. If you had to sell the truck to buy a Jetta, you live too close to broke which means that you still need a job or a better $$ manager.

 

I've had a similar experience with my 02. I have saved a bunch of money because I was able to do the repairs myself, i.e. VP44; drivers side window regulator; replaced a few different sensors, etc. This kind of work would have been very expensive to have done at a dealership. Also I have done all of my own maintenance including tire rotation. Now I'm having a problem with the blend door actutor- something that I'm not going to tackle. I've got 77k miles on the truck and when I need ball joints, wheel bearings, brakes, etc. I will definitely have to take it to a repair shop or a dealer. I physically can't do the heavy maintenance on the truck anymore nor can I do contortiontists type stuff (extreme bending of the body).

I think the bottom line is that for a 9 year old truck with 77k miles my cost per mile would have been rather high had all the repairs and maintenance been done at a dealership or repair facility.

 

Think how inexpensive it would be if the truck were as good as the engine.