i'm getting ready to change the injector pump on my 1999 with 95,000 miles.
I do not have the engine turning tool called out "SP371" or the "gear puller".

question 1. will I be able to rotate to TDC using the alternater nut?
question 2. can I use two each of the following- 1/2" by 1/2" by 3" long bar with two washers and M8-1.25 bolts- length of 44mm to seperate the gear?

thanks for any help!!!

 

1. use the balancer bolts to turn engine over they are 15 mm
2. a steering wheel puller or gear puller that will line up with the holes in the gear will work as long as the thrust screw hits the pump shaft.

 

^^^^^^^^What he said.........be sure to put a lot of time aside and take your time.....if everything goes as planned great if not dont be surprised. My first pump swap sucked-long story short i ended up misaligning the shim key and crushed it making the whole deal a nightmare.

 

You really don't want TDC you want to turn it so the key way is at 12 oclock. Yes you can turn the engine very easy with the alternator nut. Thanks Steve B.

 

i wasnt successful at turning the engine with the alternator nut...i eventually got it but the belt kept slipping.

for my truck, i needed a torx bit (maybe a T40??) but i'm not sure the early trucks needed it...the haynes manual showed a different fastener than what was on mine. it was for the bracket that attaches to the bottom of the VP. just a heads up that if you dont have a torx set in that size range that you might be off to the hardware store.

i used a steering wheel puller for the gear and luckily never had an issue with the key. but the puller you have sounds like it should work.

good luck. its not as bad of a job as it seems. its very straight forward.

 

turn the engine backwards with the alt nut and it wont slip.

 

Man, OH Man! I've been there! It only took once, and you'll never make that mistake again! I got it fixed, but it took 3 days to get the right keyway shipped in, and about 2 hours to get the mushed piece of metal that was once called a keyway out of the pump shaft!

 

Everything you need to know in this thread by DieselDan
VP44

 

I did it without any special tools. Just sockets and box wrenches, and a steering wheel puller. The bolt on the puller is too long and does not fit between radiator and the gear, so I bought a bolt at Lowes and two short ones to thread into the pump gear. Took a lot of care, a mirror on the radiator side and a bright light on the pump side to view the key on the shaft and line it up, but it fit perfectly. Just take your time.
A crowfoot wrench is nice to have for the #6 injector line, though.

 

At least im not the only one........it was horrible it took me about 5 hours to get that crappy key out of the slot. Your right it like self welds itself in there and is almost impossible to get out. Luckily i was able to find another key here in denver the same day-called the cummins dealer and he gave me a bosh dealer number and they had one on hand-couldnt believe my story and didnt think it would work either well 22k miles on it so far with smarty on 7.


Read over that thread and watch the video and you should be set!

 

Make sure you remove pump when the keyway is at the top. If you don't key could fall out into timing case when removing pump. Take your time when putting pump in to be sure gear and pump keyway are in perfect alignment use mirror and flash light here. I usually look at old pump and new pump on bench and eye ball the keyway position then turn new pump shaft until in the exact position as old pump. Make sure you tighten the nut to spec.TORQUE CHART - DIESEL ENGINE
DESCRIPTION TORQUE
Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Bracket Bolts 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.)
Air Intake Housing Bolts 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.)
Banjo Fittings at top of Filter/Separator 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.)
Banjo Fittings at Fuel Return Lines 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.)
Banjo Fitting At Fuel Supply Line (Injector Pump) 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.)
Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) Bolt 20 N·m (15 ft. lbs.)
Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) Bolt 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.)
ECM Mounting Bolts 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.)
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor 14 N·m (10 ft. lbs.)
Engine Lifting Bracket Bolts 77 N·m (57 ft. lbs.)
Fuel Drain Manifold "T" Fitting 12 N·m (106 in. lbs.)
Fuel Filter Canister Bracket Bolts 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.)
Fuel Filter Canister Mounting Nut 14 N·m (10 ft. lbs.)
Fuel Filter Drain Valve Mounting Screws 3 - 5 N·m (30 - 40 in. lbs.)
Fuel Heater Screws 2 - 3 N·m (15 - 20 in. lbs.)
Fuel Injector Clamp Bolts 10 N·m (89 in. lbs.)
Fuel Pump Module Locknut 24 - 44 N·m (18 - 32 ft. lbs.)
Fuel Tank Mounting Nuts 41 N·m (30 ft. lbs.)
Fuel Transfer Pump Mounting Nuts 12 N·m (9 ft. lbs.)
High-Pressure Fuel Line Fittings (at Injectors) 38 N·m (28 ft. lbs.)
High-Pressure Fuel Line Fittings (at Pump) 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.)
High-Pressure Fuel Line Clamps-to-Intake Manifold 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.)
Hose Clamps at Intercooler Tube 8 N·m (72 in. lbs.)
Injection Pump-to-Injection Pump Gear Nut 170 N·m (125 ft. lbs.)
Injection Pump Mounting Nuts 43 N·m (32 ft. lbs.)
Intake Manifold Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor 14 N·m (10 ft. lbs.)
Intake Manifold Air Heater Relay Bolts 4.5 N·m (40 in. lbs.)
Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) Sensor 14 N·m (10 ft. lbs.)
PCM Mounting Bolts 4 N·m (35 in. lbs.)
Overflow Valve-to-Fuel Injection Pump 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.)
Water-In-Fuel (WIF) Sensor 2 - 3 N·m (15 - 20 in. lbs.)

 

thanks to DieselDan. just watched his vidieo, awsome!
doing the removal saterday, looks like a piece of cake. just hoping for no problems with thr puller.
the real problem is paying $1100 for a pump.

thanks for the replys

 

You can find one for more like $945. Still hurts but a little less.