I am finally going to change out my VP44 tomorrow. It has been going out for about a year now throwing the death code. I am also going to replace the cam sensor while I have the pump removed. What is involved with changing the cam sensor? Just unplug the wiring harness, remove the allen head bolts and pull out the old sensor. Install is the reverse. Any gotchas I should be aware of?

Thanks,
-steve

 

that's it, just remember to put the key way at 12 o clock on the vp its strait forward after that . about 2-4 hrs depending on your skills

 

I read some where to put just a drop of super glue on the key when you put it on the pump, so it will be less likely to fall off.

 

Keys are also matched to the pump so you need the proper one if you lose it - about 20 different ones.

 

Not only is there a cam sensor bolted to the back of the timing gear cover that directly senses the cam position on a 99 24-valve there is behind the starter a crank position sensor as a backup the electronic brain.
But wait there's one more folks and it's inside your vp44 and some of the people who are talking about replacing the sensor are talking about the one internal to your vp44 I have all three of these go out together under a specific condition when the batteries are marginal or sub marginal inside of these hall effect sensors are transistors that blow under the increased current because of the low voltage
The local injection pump repair service will replace the Bosch timing sensor inside the vp44 for the inexpensive price of $700 they wanted to charge 1200 and do a full rework of a year-old rebuild as a mechanic I had the clout to just get the sensor changed in the vp44 it looks like I have to do it again some eight years later injection pump again is fine but the codes are coming from inside the vp44 from a low battery voltage start
I've since carried a generator and a jump battery on my service truck