If you go to the dealer it costs $2200 dollars, from Cummins $1300, fix it yourself at www.fixinrams.com, about $300.

When your Vacuum Pump goes you loose your brakes and power steering all at once with no warning.

Anyone have some miles on their rebuilt Vacuum Pump? Any problems?

Also, since the power steering pump rides piggy back on the vacuum pump, if your power steering is groaning, does that put more stress on the drive coupler in the Vacuum Pump?

My Vacuum Pump died a few weeks ago, is it going to go out soon if I don't replace the power steering pump?

Any thoughts..........Jim

 

I found a guy on Ebay who sells rebuild kits pretty cheap. Do a search and it should turn up.

 

The FixinRams pump is a stck pump with a new double lip Viton seal. The seal size is 28x38x7. Call the industrial supply house in your area. I got mine from Motion Industries for $27. Make sure to get a double lip, the orignal lip may have cut a grove in the shaft seal and the double lip should straddel that groove. Rebuilding the pump is a piece of cake. One important trick, when you reassemble the pump make sure that the drive gear is wedged out from the pump body prior to re-assemble. This will set the internal clearances to the pump won't bind. I also found that when you re-assemble the vacuum pump to the power steering pump, the two hang up at ~1/8 apart. DON'T force it. wiggle it untill it pops together. I found the instructions below on one of the diesel forums.


"I've had a Vacuum Pump leak for some time now. Posted a question about it not too long ago on the forum. Thanks Evan for replying with the info. The seal is measured in millimeters, 28x38x7. The type of seal is called "Viton", good up to 400 degrees and cost me $8.16 plus shipping. That is a lot better than $950+ not including labor that Dodge wants for the whole pump. You can get these seals from any industrial supply house. The process is very easy and takes under an hour to do. Here's how:

1. Remove four nuts securing Power Steering Pump (PSP) to Vacuum Pump (VP). Studs may back out of PSP. Just thread back in. Leave all PSP hoses connected. There is a spring aft of PSP on the injection pump that can get in the way. Disconnect and let hang. Do not separate PSP from VP yet.

2. Remove VP supply line and oil line at the bottom of VP. You may need to back up the fitting (7/16) at the bottom of the VP and then remove the oil line (9/16). You will get some oil drainage so be ready with a small pan.

3. Remove lower bolt attaching VP to gear case. Loosen but do not remove upper bolt completely as this will allow the whole assembly to hang down at an angle providing more room to separate the assy.

4. Gently separate PSP from VP taking care not to scar the sealing surface becoming visable attached to the PSP. Rest PSP on engine mount.

5. Remove upper bolt on VP and remove from vehicle.

6. Keep things clean. Remove two bolts and separate VP halves.

7. Set the PSP side (four legs) of VP face down on bench. Fit a deep socket (large as possible) through the hole in the center and drive the center section holding the seal from the outer housing.

8. Remove old seal and press in new. Clean all o-rings and lightly lube with grease including inside diameter of new seal and sealing surface on PSP.

9. Install center drive star and seal center section into housing. Assemble both havles of VP making sure there is no dirt inside the VP.

10. Install components in opposite order of removal. Clock drive fingers on PSP to VP to help in mating PSP to VP."

 

if its only leaking oil get a $10 seal kit from cummins and 2 hrs of your time .I have done quite a few and it has worked everytime

part # 4089742 kit has all seals and gaskets and instructions to rebuild the pump