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Universal Joint, binding during removal

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Old 05-21-2007, 09:00 PM
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Universal Joint, binding during removal

Trying to replace the front u-joint of the rear shaft. I got the joint loose from the output yoke of the transfer case. The joint binds against the inside of the driveshaft yoke before the bearing cap pokes out far enough to pull off with pliers.

Any suggestions?

File the inside of the yoke so the joint has more travel?

Burn it out with the torch?
Old 05-23-2007, 07:11 AM
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To fix this, I took the driveshaft out. I put the portion of the bearing cap that was sticking out from the yoke into the bottom of the vise jaws. Then, I hit the yoke downward with a soft-faced mallet. It wasn't really all that tough, but almost impossible to do with channel locks or vise grips while installed on the truck.

I poured black dust out of one of the bearing caps.

New greasable U-joints are installed with the zerks in compression so I can grease them at each oil change.

A cheap HF ball joint press is a big help, and a good alternative to the socket and hammer method.

After I installed them, they seemed too tight, like the bearing caps were pushed in too far. I smacked each ear of the yoke with a metal hammer a few times to momentarily deform the ear so the compression would be releived.
Old 05-23-2007, 07:28 AM
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CRSmith,

I posted a reply shortly after your post, but I see that it did not get recorded. Sorry

Glad you got it fixed.

Here is how I take it apart.

The shaft must be removed from the truck. Place the loose ends of the spider (the cross) on 2 supports, on open vise, hard wood blocks, ect. I use the wrist pins from a Cummins engine.

Place a socket that has on opening larger than the bearing cup over the cup against the yoke. Drive the yoke downward by hitting the socket and the bearing cup will come out of the top of the yoke. Turn the shaft over and do the same and it is apart.

I fill the new bearing cup with grease before installing it. This will help to keep the needle bearings from getting out of place.
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