afoulk

I'm gonna have to do something about my turbo pretty soon. The shaft has so much up and down play in it that the wheel is almost hitting the housing, and I'm starting to get an oily residue around the inside of the housing. I was looking at getting a rebuild kit from Citydiesel. I want a bigger turbo someday to support more fuel, but I don't have the money for a new turbo right now. Are any special tools needed to rebuild a HX-35? Any tips or suggestions? And would anyone NOT recommend doing this? I just wanna make sure I take care of this before the wheel hits the housing and i wind up with pieces going thru my engine.

rockwithjason

i have done a rebuild on an hx35. it's not a particularly hard job but it is very detailed. i got my kit from high tech turbo in salt lake city. you will need snap ring pliars for many of the internal parts. you will also need some kind of pliars to remove the intake housing. you will need an inch pound wrench capable of measuring 250 inch pounds. harbor freight has a set of big snap ring pliars that would work well for this. make notes and take pics of each step of the tear down so you have reference material.

scribe index marks on the compressor wheel and the shaft so that you can put them back in the same orientation and maintain the balance. if you are meticulous on this you can get it back close enough for it to be acceptably in balance. when you go to rebuild the shaft you have to be very careful to make sure that the chamfer on the snap rings face the right way. i had to use a magnifying glass to see the chamfer. if there is any coking in the center section you will have a hell of a time removing it. you may be able to blast or scrape it but you will have to see.

when you are re assembling the intake housing don't use the o ring included in the kit. the o ring is for hy35 turbos, the hx35 doesn't use any gasket for the compressor housing. be very careful about your torque values also. you may have to use a crows foot wrench on some of the bolts. you can download the manual from the holeset website.

http://www.holset.co.uk/files/4_4_1-...%20manuals.php

dozer12216

Watch for left hand nut. Very easy to twist (break) shaft removing nut.

Russ Roth

The only thing I would add is to make SURE you don't get the seals reversed. You will pump oil into the intake and have a runaway engine. That did not happen to me but did to a friend. Ended up being pretty expensive. I would have the intake open and a handful of rags to stuff in there when I started it the first time. I have been told by pro mechanics that's what they do with the big boys.

afoulk

does anyone have a cheaper kit than Citydiesel?

afoulk

Ok, just checked out HTT's site, they're rebuild kit is a lot cheaper.

dj_souvlaki

take you're time place everything you take out on a clean rag or work surface in order .

1stGen545

You put rags (and your fingers) in it if you want but I use a board over inlet. The seals are split ring and work like the oil ring on a piston and they work both ways page 70 in my Holset manual show no specific orientation for them. Sounds like his drain was clogged and forcing the oil out past the rings. With a free flowing drain there is almost no pressure on those rings.

I have done several and its not hard at all. Just pay attention.

Russ Roth

I like the board idea. Appropriate sized piece of plywood would be perfect. I figured if did one I would just use a whole stack of rags and let them get sucked into the turbo to shut it down. Board sounds better, kinda like the shutdown the old 2 stroke Detroits had.

My friend is the one that determined the seal was in backwards. I never even saw the turbo apart so can't really comment other than what he told me. It was a running rig so unless something got in it when it was apart it shouldn't have been plugged.

afoulk

Are the turbos pretty hard to get apart, particularly the shaft nuts and the bolts on the exhaust side? I'll spray the exhaust stuff up ahead of time with PB Blaster, but I figure with all the heat cycles that stuff goes through, it wont be to nice.

rockwithjason

no it wasn't really hard. a bench vise helps but i bet you could easily get by without one. i did use anti seaze(sp) when i put all together.

turbomike

rockwithjason, what would it do if someone put the o ring on when installing the compressor intake housing ?

rockwithjason

the retaining ring won't seat properly and the compressor housing will blow off and destroy the compressor wheel. if you are lucky you can get by with a new compressor wheel after that. don't ask me how i know. lol

turbomike

I think I'll try to take my compressor housing off, with the turbo still on the truck. And remove the o ring.