99 dodge diesel 4x4 about 90,000 on second trans

Driving home from work 30 miles I get off the freeway and stop at a light and I feel like I cant hold the truck from moving forward so I press harder on the brake and the truck stalls.

I start the truck up in neatral and it runs fine, I place it in drive and it stalls. I start it up again, this time i rev the engine and drop it in drive and im able to drive away. But stalls at the next light.

Truck stall when placed in reverse or Drive

What could be the problem or fixes, Thanks Mike

 

That sounds like your torque converter is locked and won't unlock. As to why, one of the more senior members will have to chime in here.

 

Yep, locked TC, either electrically or mechanically.

You can't pull the trans plug to eliminate the electrical on the RE, so you will need to figure out how to eliminate the signal elsewhere, don't hold me to it, but B13 seems like it was the PCM wire that controlled TCLU.

I don't have a 99 service manual to verify either. You could also nip the 12V supply wire and see if you lose both TCLU and OD. If you remove the signal and it is still locked, you either have a solenoid pack bad or a fragged TC.

 

Thanks for the replies, torqe converter locked up sounds right.

Of course this happens when I'm very busy with work, so I will start with wires and move on to all possible suggestions you guys tell me.

I may be slow but will keep the link updated...I'm hoping I dont need to hand it over to a transmission shop.

Thanks again for the help, Mike

 

Hopefully it will only be a bad solenoid. Whenever I had issues with the TCLU it was the opposite, I lost the linings of the clutch and it never locked.......

One other way to check would be quick and dirty and cut the wire at the trans connector.

I put the 97 wiring on this thread, it is wire #7 on the connector.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=310819

On the 97, it is the wire that is Orange/Black and on the 97 at least, runs to PCM B11 on C2 connector.

If it really is the solenoid, it isn't terrible to change, you have to drop the valve body, but other than the mess of dripping trans fluid, isn't really hard, the solenoid pack is one unit for both OD and TCLU.

 

When you say cut wire at trans connector, do you mean at the transmissin or at the pcm. I will be looking through a manual tomorrow try to read up on all the connectors and wire schematic.

And a friend has my scanner and I wont see that for a few days.

Mike

 

Depends, I would probably do it at the PCM simply because it is easier to do the repair properly when you figure it out. You actually don't have to cut it unless you want to run it before you fix it. You would probably be best to pull the PCM connector and use a pin tool to push the pin out of the connector, but not too many folks have the proper tool.

 

OK, I will look into doing that. I have only had a quick chance to look at the wiring..I see the output speed sensor 2 wires that attach to sensor itself but did not notice any wires going to tranny anywhere else.

I will sear for info and check it Monday when home from work.

Mike

 

Here it is, a picture is worth a thousand words.......

 

OK, I see now that the connection is in the pan. So if I remove the pin on the orange and black or cut the (which I don't really want to do) wire at the PCM.

What should it do ?...will it release TC lock-up, and if it doesn't, the pressure solenoid is bad? If it does is wire bad ?

I would like to just order the parts and do it Monday,but it's better to rule out bad wire, broken,or short.

Thanks for the picture and help,

Mike

 

Pat,

You answered my question earlier in the thread...So far I think It is B11 wire ORG/BLK for 99 dodge.

is Cascade a good place to by the kit from online?

Thanks again,

Mike

 

I have never used Cascade, but I don't see anything bad written about them, and their prices are in line with the place I use.

 

Yes, it should release the TCLU if it is an electrical issue, if it doesn't, then you are next going to look at the solenoid pack.

I just got to thinking, if you can get your fingers on a pin removal tool ( serious mechanics usually have them ), it would be better to remove the pin at the trans, that would eliminate the possibility of it being a wire rubbed and grounding. The operation is a bit weird to me at least, 12 volts is continuously applied to the solenoids, and the PCM switching provides the ground, so if you have a wire rubbed in two, it would be on all the time.

Another thought, if the plug is damaged, and debris ( oil, etc. ) has entered the plug, it is possible that this is creating the ground....... I have never seen it, but the possibility is there.

 

Pat,
I will try to check the wiring my first day home (Monday).

I am still trying to rap my head around checking the solenoid lock-up by removing the wire inside the transmission connection or is it a connection prior to entering the transmission.

If I remove the wire in the transmission I would have to re-install the pan and add fluid again so I could test drive and check if it unlocks.

Thanks,
Mike

 

Mike, no I mean the wire at the connector on the transmission, outside where it meets the case.

If you go into the trans, might as well just replace the solenoid pack.......

Take the connector off, inspect it closely for grime or debris, if it is slimy or dirty, blow it out good with contact cleaner ( connector at case also ) and hook it back up. If it looks relatively clean, then You could actually just leave it unhooked, start the truck, put it in drive and see if it stalls...... Don't try and drive it like that, as the governor pressure controls aren't working either.

That would rule out the solenoid, you would still have to wring out the wiring to see whats up.
Thinking about it, while you have the connector off, check pin 7 to ground, if you have continuity, either it is the PCM or you have a wire rubbing to ground in between.