Tranni fluid added to fuel
One of the local diesel mechanics was telling me he puts in 1 quart of tranni fluid in each tank of fuel, says it helps lubrication and cleaning of injectors etc.
He puts in all the diesels in the fleet he is responsible for.
Anybody ever hear of this ?
He puts in all the diesels in the fleet he is responsible for.
Anybody ever hear of this ?
Heard of it and seen it done...usually by older mechanics. Was OK in looser, older, big rig diesels but I would not in my CTD. Will do nothing for cleaner injectors!
Tranny fluid is not designed to burn...when it does it burns "dirty" leaving soot in your motor.
Use a diesel fuel additive with lubricity additive and you will be better off.
Here is one of the better ones http://www.stanadyne.com/new/index.asp
RJ
Tranny fluid is not designed to burn...when it does it burns "dirty" leaving soot in your motor.
Use a diesel fuel additive with lubricity additive and you will be better off.
Here is one of the better ones http://www.stanadyne.com/new/index.asp
RJ
NO! NO! NO! NO! NO! NO! NO!
DO NOT RUN ATF IN YOUR CTD!
ATF will REDUCE lubricity in the fuel, and increase pump wear and injector wear.
If you want to clean it out, use a DIESEL ADDITIVE.
ATF is NOT designed for burning in a diesel! DUH!
The "tricks" some old timers got away with are amazing......
Justin
DO NOT RUN ATF IN YOUR CTD!
ATF will REDUCE lubricity in the fuel, and increase pump wear and injector wear.
If you want to clean it out, use a DIESEL ADDITIVE.
ATF is NOT designed for burning in a diesel! DUH!
The "tricks" some old timers got away with are amazing......
Justin
The whole idea of adding the ATF is for it NOT to burn. 1 quart diluted in 30+ gals of diesel WILL NOT harm anything. If the ATF burns, it is not doing its lubricating job. Its the same idea as 2 stroke oil and castor oils. they are added in very small quanities to lube upper cylinder after combustion to prevent ring galling of the cylinder. Thats why the 2 strokes have been outlawed. The oil doesn't burn and creates emission pollution.
F.F.
Sorry, Have to disagree. The Flash Point on even a full synthetic ATF is around 430*F. Temps inside the diesel cylinder are way hotter than that...it has to, and does, ignite.
I'm working from "way back" memory...but I remember seeing a diagram of a diesel engine with average Cyl. Head Temps at ignition of over 1500 degrees.
Flash Point on 2-stroke oil is around 180*F. It burns also.
RJ
PS, 10/16/04 (10:30 am)-Corrected synthetic ATF Flash Point - previously listed, in error, as 430*C.
I'm working from "way back" memory...but I remember seeing a diagram of a diesel engine with average Cyl. Head Temps at ignition of over 1500 degrees.
Flash Point on 2-stroke oil is around 180*F. It burns also.
RJ
PS, 10/16/04 (10:30 am)-Corrected synthetic ATF Flash Point - previously listed, in error, as 430*C.
Found my diagram...it's from John Deere...and 10 yrs old, but still applicable; Temps are at operating conditions:
Piston Skirts; 200-400*F
Top Ring; 300-700*F
Piston Head; 400-800*F
Combustion Chamber; 2000-4000*F
Exhaust Valves; 1200-1400*F
Cylinder Walls; 200-1100*F
Exhaust Turbine; 900-1200* F
RJ
Piston Skirts; 200-400*F
Top Ring; 300-700*F
Piston Head; 400-800*F
Combustion Chamber; 2000-4000*F
Exhaust Valves; 1200-1400*F
Cylinder Walls; 200-1100*F
Exhaust Turbine; 900-1200* F
RJ
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Fat Framer....that is NOT the reason 2 strokes are restricted in some freshwater lakes. It is the fact that they are/were terribly inefficient and much fuel (gas/oil mix) was emitted into the water. The newer HPDI 2 strokes (still gas/oil ) are CA certified for ALL waters.
To answer the original question.... I'm with Hohn.
To answer the original question.... I'm with Hohn.
rjohnson,
you can disagree all you want but its the truth. The chart you show is similar to the one I learned with but what you are failing to see is that the chart is showing full operating temps at load under WOT or close to it. Most engines will run at less than 1/4 of those temps for very extended times. If the cylinder temps in the chart were correct for extended runs, any lubricating oil that touches the cylinder walls on the compression or intake stroke would instantly burn/vaporize and create carbon therby burning oil. It wouldnt take long to empty out 3 gals. as far as the 2 stroke burning, check out the EPA mandates and look at there 10 yr findings. 90% of the oil DOES NOT BURN. Thats why 2 stroke engines are being phased out. also castor oil used in some fuel DOES NOT BURN at anynormal combustion temp(dont ask me why, I still cant figure that out for my self either
). If your still not convinced, look up 2 stroke threroys (sp). Most of the books you find will also cover top cylinder lubrication for all engines. I have 3-4 books from when I was studying combustion theory and will post the name and author if I can find them. You will spend days looking through the internet search engines for them.
you can disagree all you want but its the truth. The chart you show is similar to the one I learned with but what you are failing to see is that the chart is showing full operating temps at load under WOT or close to it. Most engines will run at less than 1/4 of those temps for very extended times. If the cylinder temps in the chart were correct for extended runs, any lubricating oil that touches the cylinder walls on the compression or intake stroke would instantly burn/vaporize and create carbon therby burning oil. It wouldnt take long to empty out 3 gals. as far as the 2 stroke burning, check out the EPA mandates and look at there 10 yr findings. 90% of the oil DOES NOT BURN. Thats why 2 stroke engines are being phased out. also castor oil used in some fuel DOES NOT BURN at anynormal combustion temp(dont ask me why, I still cant figure that out for my self either
). If your still not convinced, look up 2 stroke threroys (sp). Most of the books you find will also cover top cylinder lubrication for all engines. I have 3-4 books from when I was studying combustion theory and will post the name and author if I can find them. You will spend days looking through the internet search engines for them.
I'll throw in my 2c here:
Upper cylinder lubrication is just one point of the equation here- another one is the ash/particle content after the burn. ATF is not in any way optimized to burn ashless. But this would be one of the major considerations for any fuel additive. It should also be able to dissolve injector coking. Since the stuff we want to dissolve in the engine is very different from the small particles of friction material that is to be kept in suspension by the detergents of the ATF I do doubt the efficiency of ATF as a fuel additive. I had excellent results in using biodiesel (rapeseed methyl esther) to clean up and lube injection systems.
A clean injector will atomize fuel better, therefore creating less soot and keep the burn further away from the cylinder walls, in all reducing the number of potentially abrasive particles clinging to the cylinder wall.
Well, just my points of view on this issue.
AlpineRAM
Upper cylinder lubrication is just one point of the equation here- another one is the ash/particle content after the burn. ATF is not in any way optimized to burn ashless. But this would be one of the major considerations for any fuel additive. It should also be able to dissolve injector coking. Since the stuff we want to dissolve in the engine is very different from the small particles of friction material that is to be kept in suspension by the detergents of the ATF I do doubt the efficiency of ATF as a fuel additive. I had excellent results in using biodiesel (rapeseed methyl esther) to clean up and lube injection systems.
A clean injector will atomize fuel better, therefore creating less soot and keep the burn further away from the cylinder walls, in all reducing the number of potentially abrasive particles clinging to the cylinder wall.
Well, just my points of view on this issue.
AlpineRAM
I personally think that if you purchase good quality fuel, there is no need to add anything to it. Today's fuel has a large package of detergents and lubricating agents.
Read about the fuel I use HERE .
If you feel you need an additive, stick with a name brand product such as Standyne or Power Service that was made for diesel engines. Leave the tranny fluid in your tranny.
Read about the fuel I use HERE .
If you feel you need an additive, stick with a name brand product such as Standyne or Power Service that was made for diesel engines. Leave the tranny fluid in your tranny.
The FRICTION modifiers and additives that are in the ATF are VERY harmful to your Injector pump. In older diesels that was ok as the IP's didnt have very tight specs. But, it wreaks havoc on the newer IP's due to the very tight tolerances in the pump. If you want to add some lubricity - add some new SAE 30 wt engine oil (a couple of ounces) or some diesel conditioner (Standyne, Howes, Powerservice) - companies have spent big $ developing and testing additives - why wouldnt you take advantage of that?? 
BWT, this info came to me directly from a Cummins Mechanic at a Cummins service centre.

BWT, this info came to me directly from a Cummins Mechanic at a Cummins service centre.
Thanks to all for the responses, I will pass on the info presented.
Have to say, if I was to add something to the fuel I would stick to the commercially developed stuff.
I like my engine to much to take chances.
Have to say, if I was to add something to the fuel I would stick to the commercially developed stuff.
I like my engine to much to take chances.
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