Let me clarify - the t-stat was for a dodge/cummins - it was just listed by a mopar number on the website

thanks

brian

 

When you buy a Y-Stat from a Dodge Dealer.... it comes in a Cummins box!

RJ

 

Hey Guys,
I've been posting on two other threads recently, about a coolant line leak that when first found appears to be a tranny leak, about my coolant guage fluctuating and volt meter appearing to be overcharging.

I know these three things are off base from each other but perhaps two are a relatewd to my desire now to do a coolant flush/fill and T-stat replacement.

Because of the cold weather in the past couple of weeks and limited time, I thought heck, run it into the dealer and let them do both. But then I thought, the dealer wants a buck ten + tax just to do the flush/fill, so I can only imagine how much more for the T-stat replacement w/labor. And I know I should be able to do this.

So my questions are these:
1) The flush part, is that actually a water type flush or is this an additive before draining the coolant?
2) On an 06' can I squeeze a pice of rubber tubing over the radiator drain valve to direct the coolant away from the truck and into a container?
3) Can I buy a "Cummins" T-stat from anywhere?
4) Will I have choices of T-stats based on tempertures settings?
5) Why are there different temp settings on some of the T-stats I see online?

Thanks,
Rob

 

-Water (hose) flush
-Get a 5 gal pail and put it under the drain.
-Most big rig repair shops work on Cummins and sell Cummins parts. Check your phone book! Take your engine serial # in if you don't have the part # you want.
-I believe the 06's take a 190* T-Stat? I prefer the 180* with extra fueling. I think the 190* is just for emmisions control. My engine loves the 180* in this part of the country.
Do a search on the 3rd gen forum for your choices. Part numbers should be there also.

RJ

 

Thanks RowJ,
Yea, figured it was a do-it-yourself hose/water flush. So until the temps are above freezing that will have to wait.

Would you explain a little more about the advantages/disadvantages of 180 deg. vs. 190 deg. T-stats. And I've even seen a 203 deg. version.

Seems to me you would want it to open faster in the winter to cut back on how long the truck needs to sit at idle wasting fuel during warm-up. My average mpg drops by almost 3 in the winter compared to summer. I intend to install a block heater as soon as I can in the spring.

No Diesel emission control yet here so...........

Oh, here's a general question too, what about coolant types, I wonder what the general consensus is on the best?

Thanks for the help.
Rob

 

190* T-Stat causes engine to run hotter. This has been one of Cummins methods of reducing emmisions, or so I've been told. Also higher EGT's. Higher block temp = higher combustion temps = cleaner burn.
But with extra fuel, or just heavy towing, the 190* coolant system is prone to overheat.
In summer (or our winters), my Cummins runs fine on a 180*. And it never runs over 180* (except maybe serious Dallas gridlock in 100* OAT).
I can run all day at the track and never move from 180*. With a 190*... temp would climb to 220* after 3-4 passes. (Just one example).

The plate on the bottom of the 190* was Dodges idea...for faster warmup. Works in winter but my temps bounced around a lot. The 180* is all cumming and holds 180* all day! It does taks longer to get good heat in the winter.

RJ

 

Thanks RJ,
yea....... we heat up here too sometimes. Last summer it was floating around the 100 mark for a couple days. But during the summer months I primarily drive the truck to make the commute safer (I like the added protection that 8k lbs offers), all other days I drive the car.

In the winter months things are different. I drive the truck if there's even a chance of snow in the adjoining states. I put little faith in meteroligists. And my driveways require 4WD with anything more than just rain. 1/2 in of snow will stop a FWD car with dedicated snow tires. Been there, done that.

And this has been the first winter in a long time that the day time temps stayed below 20 for so may days in a row. It was 9 again up at the house this am when I went out to start it up. It doesn't fit in the garage. So I have no other options but to install a block heater and run the best "for my situation" T-stat. I don't tow all the time, but I'd like to know I'm not limited by the T-stat. It's a daily driver at most. And what bugs me about all of this is, untill this winter, I have never seen the needle go barely above 200, or fluctuate. It would hang just under the 200 mark in any temp, or any driving style.

I think I'll just install a OEM from the dealership. I can't find a "Cummins Parts Supplier" in my area looking online.

Rob