Straight Pipes
Re:Straight Pipes
Bolo2,<br> I had my truck piped for $75, and did not bust a single knuckle! Shop around and see what muffler shops in your area can do for you. The right way to do it is to cut in front of the resonator and behind the muffler, then weld in straight pipe. You will enjoy the sound of the CTD much better. As a side note, pop off the slincer ring in the turbo and let her SING!!
Re:Straight Pipes
I did almost the same thing as Tiny,,,, only thing is I couldn't wait to see what it sounded like, so I took a sawsall and cut the muff off leaving the resonator. I removed the rest of the tailpipe and threw it in the bed. Took the truck for a drive and decided I might as well get rid of the resonator also. I drove down to a local muff shop and had them cut the resonator off so there is no need for a reducer. They put the tailpipe back under the truck and welded a straight pipe from the tailpipe to the head pipe ($65).
It sounds great to me and I don't have the dreaded drone that some folks complain about. One thing I did find out was pulling the 5er with the sliding back window open is a little too much volume! But, I don't tow with that window open anyway because of the wind bouncing off the front of the 5er and blowing stuff around inside of the truck. I do like to hear that Cummins sing through the side windows when she is doing a little work. ;D
It sounds great to me and I don't have the dreaded drone that some folks complain about. One thing I did find out was pulling the 5er with the sliding back window open is a little too much volume! But, I don't tow with that window open anyway because of the wind bouncing off the front of the 5er and blowing stuff around inside of the truck. I do like to hear that Cummins sing through the side windows when she is doing a little work. ;D
Re:Straight Pipes
Depends on how involved you want to get. I can't leave things well enough alone. After the first week I bought a Dynomax 4" system (cat back?) that replaced everything from the resonator back. I bought some 4" straight pipe and cut the factory pipes just after the down pipe. I used band clamps instead of muffler clamps so I could easily change it around. Soon after I removed the muffler and replaced it with a section of 4" pipe that could be swapped out during inspection. Later on I bought a 4" down pipe for $120, 4" to 5" adapter for $10, and 8' of 5" exhaust pipe for $90 and finally 5" mandrel tailpipe for $150. This time I welded everything to keep from playing. I was happy (for a while) with each set up but the 5" set up I am most happy with. Regardless of what you do, I highly recommend replacing the factory down pipe with a 4” if you plan to run 4". In my opinion it is worth the extra. I have sound clips on my WebPages of the 4" setups incase you interested. I haven't had a chance to record the 5" yet. Go tothis page or this page (updated but not always accessible due to geocities)<br><br>Good luck,<br><br>Bob
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Re:Straight Pipes
I had the 4" Jardine exhaust in for about a year, then decided to replace the muffler with a section of straight pipe. I called Jardine up in Wyoming, and they shipped me a 30" section of straight pipe, belled at both ends. It took me about an hour to get the muffler off and install the straight section. $20 for the pipe, $10 shipping - total cost $30. Sound - PRICELESS!!!!!! ;D
<br><br>Tom
<br><br>Tom
Re:Straight Pipes
$34 for the 84" long section of 3 1/2" pipe flaired on both ends and 1 hour in the shop and it's done. 8) I didn't even have to cut the stock exhaust off I just loosened the clamps and wacked it with a rubber mallet a few times,
took the whole system off in one peace. 8)<br><br>Good Luck<br><br>DB
took the whole system off in one peace. 8)<br><br>Good Luck<br><br>DB
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cethane
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Mar 10, 2003 06:30 PM



