First I apologize for the newbie style question. Either I suck at searching or this hasnt been covered

I have a 2001 2500 with 95k on the ticker now. I have severly neglected my truck and not EVER tuned it up. I change the oil regularly, and keep the K&N clean, but other than that have not done a thing. I know a couple basic things like shange the fuel filter and all the fluids. Being my first diesel I was wondering what else is needed to maintain my truck?

Thank you in advance and again I apologize for such a basic question.

 

well if your bored do a valve adj.-they all come extreemly lose..the dealer could probly sell ya 5000 things to do but i think you got it covered well except for you might need a set of bigger inj.
a fuel box
a bigger exhaust

 

I have the genos eliminator and its fine for now. I do want to get larger exhaust but for now I just need a reliable truck that doesnt cost me anything So there are no real extra things like on a gas motor?

 

Nope. Just take care of that valve adjustment, also known as "setting the overhead" or "running the rack". At 95k it's been ready for a while.

 

I am a very mechanical guy but have never attempted this before. Something I can do myself or should I have it done? Is there a step by step write up somewhere?

 

I've never done it on a 24 valve, but it's not hard on a 12 valve. It's in the service manual, somebody may have a link to an online how-to.

 

I thought I'd read somewhere that the 24 valve didn't need any valve adjustment until 150,000 miles, or is this just hype!

 

Here is the valve adjustment guidelines...

And the adjustment typically at 150K miles is:

Intake: 0.254 mm (0.010 in) [0.152 mm (0.006 in) Min/ 0.381 mm (0.015in) Max]
Exhaust: 0.5.08 mm (0.020 in) [0.381 mm (0.015 in) Min/ 0.762 mm (0.030 in) Max]
1. Disconnect battery cables
2. Remove valve cover.
3. Remove the fuel pump gear access cover.
4. Bar the engine until the TDC mark on the pump gear lines up on the TDC mark on the gear housing.
5. At this position valve lash can be measured/adjusted at: Intake 1, 2, and 4 / Exhaust 1, 3, and 5.
6. Rotate the crankshaft one revolution (360*) so that the TDC mark is now at the 6 o'clock position pointing at the timing mark at that position.
7. Now measure/adjust: Intake 3, 5, and 6 / Exhaust 2, 4, 6.

The Intake rockers have a sharp angle on one side in the center of the arm with the other side of the rocker being straight while the exhaust rockers have a smooth curve on both sides although non symmetrical.

 

figure_9_pro-
Do you do this stone cold, warm, or operating temp?

 

The manual says that you should do it at a bloc temperature below 60 deg Celsius (140F)

AlpineRAM

 

No NEED to do Valve Adjustment untill 150,000 miles. Especially if the truck didn't have the shnizzle ran out of it.

Your motor is only 25% in it's engine life, so motor on happy, a comparable gasser would only be at 25,000 miles or so in comparison of wear and tear.

I don't understand where general public gets al the hype about "higher maintanence costs"? That's unfounded. Just Fuel Filters, Air Filters, and Oil/Oil Filters.

If you aren't turning up the power above 350RWHP, just put a straight through muffler in the OE 3.5" pipe. That'll let some more heat out the exhaust.
I would change the Air FIlter to a Scotty Air, or Mega Cannon, and then install an EZ and motor with a smile. K&N's aren't so great on the Cummins...

Happy Motoring!

Set the Valves at .08 and .018 for some better bottom end. I set mine there.

Hope this helps,
Merrick

 

According to the cummins site , it does not need adjustment until 150,000 miles www.cummins.com look under their F.A.Q

 

I have a 2001 24 valve and I just had my valves adjusted by a buddy at the Cummins dealer and WOW . It made the biggest differance.The truck is as smooth as ice.Yhe milage is at 97000 and it never hurts to adjust the valves(correctly). I dindt think mine needed it but I was missing out.

JIM

 

How about changing the diff fluids? I noticed it was a 4x4 so you might want to do that. What about the tranny fluid? even if it's a manual it still wouldn't hurt to change the tranny fluid as well. Maybe even change the power steering fluid, the power steering is worked pretty hard on these big trucks so that could be some cheap insurance as well. Check the coolant as well and make sure it hasn't broken down, if it's bad change it out as well with a good high grade mixture.

Just some more maintance to think about with that many miles on the odo.

DB