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runs to high temp towing

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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 10:19 AM
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runs to high temp towing

2001 qcab stock cummins
when i pull rv it trys to run to high temp if i keep my foot in it
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 11:58 AM
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From: L.A. (Lower Arkansas)
Check your intercooler boots for leaks and also your air filter.
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 01:10 PM
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Have you moved the puke bottle and cleaned your rad? My truck did not run warm, honestly I do not know why after looking at the rad. FYI... you cannot properly clean the rad while its installed on the truck, trust me I've tried...
Before car wash.

[IMG][/IMG]


After car wash.

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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 05:08 PM
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When you say it runs to high temp are you talking about coolant temp or EGT?

If coolant, it's almost guaranteed it's a crudded up radiator from the crankcase breather bottle like klx650a2 showed above. I totally agree that you can't clean it worth a darn while it's in the truck.

Mike
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 08:54 PM
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my truck does the same thing right now high coolant temps when towing. viscous fan clutch is bad. and needs to be replaced. when you have your engine nice and warm open the hood and watch the fan as you shut the engine down if it doesn't stop at almost the exact same time as the engine its bad. also check for play back and forth and wether there is an oily film all around. those are some signs that its bad.
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 10:57 PM
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you were right rad is stopped completely up thanks for all yalls help
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 11:00 PM
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On those years of truck, I like to lengthen the breather hose so it terminates far below the fan shroud area.
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Old Jun 11, 2009 | 11:44 PM
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Had the same issue on my way to and back from Moab a month ago.......Hosed it out and no more worries....I have a bottle so most of this crap is junk from the road.

Look firmiliar?

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Old Jun 12, 2009 | 05:16 AM
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very hehe
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Old Jun 12, 2009 | 03:23 PM
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.....if you would have finished up with spraying the rad with aluminum wheel cleaner it makes them look like new!

.....and on the "fan clutch" issue, I see ALOT of these trucks come in with clogged radiators and new fan clutches from other shops. IF the cores are plugged it will not allow the fan clutch to get hot enough to engage due to no air flow.
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Old Jun 14, 2009 | 03:28 PM
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From: North Carolina or Kentucky. Take your pick
The test for fan clutch is: restrict rad air flow and check temp of air between radiator and fan while running. At 210 degrees the fan will start pulling air like a banshee and make loud air noise. Take restriction off and fan will go silent is minute or so as air cools down. Should not have leak at fan shaft seal or excess blade fore and aft travel.
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Old Jun 14, 2009 | 06:38 PM
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From: Peoria AZ
Originally Posted by J BODY
.....if you would have finished up with spraying the rad with aluminum wheel cleaner it makes them look like new!

.....and on the "fan clutch" issue, I see ALOT of these trucks come in with clogged radiators and new fan clutches from other shops. IF the cores are plugged it will not allow the fan clutch to get hot enough to engage due to no air flow.
Thats me..... got a spare clutch now I guess.......
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Old Jun 14, 2009 | 07:28 PM
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whats this bottle you talk about
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Old Jun 14, 2009 | 10:51 PM
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From: Calgary, Alberta
Originally Posted by mpat76
whats this bottle you talk about
After 98.5, Cummins moved the breather tube from the rear of the engine to the front. A year later, Dodge added a small plastic bottle to the bottom of the breather tube to catch drips. We have since found that on all engines that have the breather tube on the front of the engine, regardless of whether the tube has the bottle or not, the oil vapors get stirred up by the fan, and everything within reach of the fan shroud gets coated by a horrible oily film. After a period of time enough dust sticks to this film that the rad fins become obstructed enough that the engine will overheat.

My repair for this is to remove the bottle, and add a foot or so of hose to the breather tube to extend it to well below the fan shroud area. It's up to you if you decide to put the bottle back on the end of the extended hose or not. Some have lengthened it greatly, and run it to the back of the engine, or even down the frame rail, but I worry about bends becoming restricted or freezing and causing damage.
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