This is my first time attempting to remove the starter, so please bear with me.

It looks like there are three bolts with special heads on them that hold the starter in place. What type of tool gets them loose? Any simple tips or tricks to removing the starter? Can all the bolts be accessed from underneath?

Thanks for the replies, but now I have more questions.

 

No special tool needed. I used a (10mm, I think) box end wrench. HTH

 

I just pulled my starter last weekend to do the solenoid contacts. Super easy job. like you mention, 3 10 mm bolts, 12 pt. A 12 pt. box end wrench will work easy for the lower two. The upper might be a pain, I used my gearwrench flexhead stubby for the top, made it super easy. Before removing those though, remove the power cable (15mm I think) and little cable (8mm, again I think). Also, you may or may not have a aluminum spacer about 1/2" thick between the starter and the bellhousing, make sure you install it in the same orientation as which it came off. Mine actually didn't budge which was nice. Then just drop it out. Took maybe 20 minutes to pull.

Torque specs:

Battery Cable Eyelet Nut at Solenoid (large nut) - 120 in-lbs.
Batter Cable Eyelet Nut at Solenoid (small nut) - 55 in-lbs.
Starter Mounting Bolts - 32 ft-lbs.

 

Got the starter off. My problem was that I didn't have a 12 pt, 10mm socket or wrench. Mine are all 6 pt. Borrowed one from my neighbor.
Now, is there a kit to rebuild the contact area of the solenoid. If not, I'm thinking that I can remove the contacts and tig weld some fresh copper on them, and then throw them in the milling machine to make them nice and flat.
Oh yea, how does the copper ring come off of the solenoid plunger?
Another Oh yea, how far is the starter gear supposed to stick out past the body. Mine sticks out .235". I'm thinking that it is too far out because I can hear "something metallic"? while the motor is running and there is a metal, rotating, sound when I turn it off. Could the starter gear still be touching the fly wheel?
I did have to remove the stock lift pump and fuel filter to access the top bolt because of the limited tools I have.

 

While searching for a repair kit for the starter solenoid I came across a web site: http://www.the-electric-connection.com/contact-us.php turns out the main company is only located less than 10 miles from me. So, I took the starter to them and told them to give it a professional rebuild (less than $50 parts and less than $50 labor) As it happens, I have known the owner and his family for 10-15 years and he runs an Automotive Electrical Repair shop here and is known for his excellent reputation for quality work.

 

This kit off of Ebay is all you need for starter contacts.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge...mZ360069144195
Cheers,
-P

 

Found out that the spring that is supposed to retract the starter gear had collapsed (it was approx. 1/2 the length of a new one) and was allowing the face of the gear to make contact with the flywheel. That was the noise I was hearing. Also found out that the brushes still have 60-70% of their life left.

 

So, I think I need to clean the contacts. Batts and altenator have tested good and when the engine has warmed up it's hard to start...almost like the batts are low on charge. After slow cranking it finally starts. I'm guessing it's the starter selnoid? Any ideas would be appreciated.

 

Well, to answer my own question. Removed the starter....yep 12pt 10mm socket and 14mm socket. Removed the two wires....I opted not to disconnect the batts so I could enjoy something about this project (the fireworks show). Was lucky as hell when I walked up to the counter and asked for another one. Mine tested good, but that w/out it being hot and/or under a load....one thing the little test stand can't do. Anyhow it tested good but the guy was super nice and gave me another one, which is a big no no w/out a receipt. I opted to drop off some beverages of his favorite but he declined. Guess it was my lucky day and not even the 4th of July.