cLAYH

How hard is it to replace front and rear crankseals? I've done lots of rear mains but not many fonrt, never on a Cummins.

I found a '98 3500 24V with 300,00kms on it but its puking oil out the front and rear of the engine. He's asking $15,000CDN but I'm thinking that if its still up for sale in a few weeks that maybe I'd low ball him at $12,000CDN. It also needs tranny cooler lines and some steering work but the IP was replace 50,000kms ago.

george7941

I replaced the front seal and it was not hard. It helps to take the front cover off,replace the seal, and then put the cover back on. Taking the cover off also enables you to check on the KDP situation on the truck. You must use the plastic guide which comes with the seal to fit the seal over the snout of the crank, I found it impossible to do it otherwise.

Tate

For the rear seal, drop the tranny, the bellhousing adapter, and 6 bolts hold in the seal housing. Unbolt that, and work on the bench with it.

cLAYH

Do you HAVE to drop the tranny for the rear main? I never had to on anything else I've done a rear main on.

BTW how do you like your 24V? I REALLY wanted a 12V but must have the quad doors. I'm having a tough time finding a decently priced '98 12V 3500 around here.

Tate

I don't see any way you could change the seal without atleast pulling the tranny back a couple of inches. The seal is a 1 piece unit, as is the housing it is fitted into. I've got a picture I'll toss into my gallery.

When I look on canadatrader, I can't even find a 98 12v. I think I've seen about 6 12v's for sale, when I'm looking between 96-98. Atleast 100 24vs between 98 and 02.

All my problems have been electrical in nature with the truck it self. Lights, ABS stuff, now my fuel sending unit. But those could also be problems on the 98 12vs too. Only engine problem has been a VP, and the odd code from the MAP and APPS sensor, none of which have been drivability issues. The engine is great, its the rest of the truck I'm not so fond about.

xmr

just a thought but if it is leaking out of both front and rear seals there may be some kind of restriction in the crakcase vent causing excessive internal pressure.

johnh

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...al_Housing.JPG

torquefan

I've always found it much easier to leave the bellhousing adapter and the seal retainer in place, and simply punch a small hole in the seal, thread in a sheetmetal screw, and lever out the seal with a pair of sidecutters.

I really hate doing rear seals on automatic-equipped trucks. The converter bolts are the worst part of the job and the cooler lines are a pain to get out of the way.
Enjoy.

Tate

Full size image.
[IMG][/IMG]

cLAYH

WOW! I didn't relaize the rear was a one piece seal! Every rear main I've done has been a two piece that slides in. Thanks for the tip. If I buy the truck I'd probably drop the tranny anyway to put in a aftermarket Torque Convertor. I'd probably be more inclined to buy it if it had less kms but then I guess the price would be more.

http://www.canadatrader.com/result/d...7&pgno=1&srt=1

Tis is about the only '98 12V 3500 4X4 with an automatic I've been able to find and its in Saskatoon. It has 130,000kms and they want $26,900!!! For that I could buy a 2003 with full 4 doors!

Fortunatly I have time, RV season is now done as well as my grass cutting contract so I've got all winter to shop. Just hard to be patient.