Hey Guys,

I finally got tired of driving my Lebaron Convertible in the snow and I am getting ready to pull my VP44.

Link to what got me here is here:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...html?p=2659532

I will appreciate any tips as I am doing this outside by the curb where my dead truck sits (it is also 23 degrees out there).

I will probably buy the pump from Midwest as I am in the Chicago area so an hour drive and I can pick up a rebuild and drop off the core.

Thanks...gary

 

Diesel Dan has a 5 part video on Youtube that explains it very well. Here's part 1.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPZR5...eature=related

 

Thanks for the link!

gary

 

that's what I followed..no problems.

you might ask if you can borrow/rent a gear puller..I had rig one for from some stuff that I had..but it was 23 outside when I did mine.

make sure you tighten all the fuel lines..I forgot one..it started but ran funny..then I found the loose line. tighened..funny running gone.

-dkenny

 

I have all the injector lines loose on the head, three loose on the pump. I was wanting to take the lines off in groups to simplify things but having problems loosening the bottom fitting on the pump. Looks like I will have to pull 2 of the lines out of the group just to get them out of the way.

All of the instruction I have seen tells me to make sure the keyway is up so I dont lose the key when I pull the pump or I will have to take off the cover.
Can someone tell me:
How do I keep the timing for the injection pump if I pull it without aligning the timing mark with the other gears?
The marks cannot be seen without pulling the cover.

Everything I am getting out of my manual and the internet do not really say much about it..thanks...gary

 

You aren't removing the gear, so they will all remain in time. Pull the nut and washer from the shaft. With a mirror, you will be able to see the key. Bar the engine until it is straight up. Then pop the gear free. There isn't enough room in the case for the gear to jump a tooth, so don't worry about that.

 

OK....thanks...gary

 

That doesn't look too difficult. How come my dealer had to bring in a specialist and charged me $850 labor and this was 5 years ago. All total for LP and IP was over $2,600. After finding sites like this I think I'll try it myself if there is a next time. This last IP seems to like my FASS. Hope I didn't jinx myself.

 

It appears to be no big deal even when doing it at the curb in the cold. The rear injector line is difficult to break loose because of confined space, and I am going to have to rig something to pop the gear off the pump but so far its a no sweat job...gary

 

Well, It is out.
I was able to keep the injector lines in groups of three by using a 19mm crows foot on that bottom fitting at the pump.
I made a puller and the gear popped right off. It makes a cute little "ting" sound when it separates from the taper.
I didn't pay enough attention to the video and only pulled two of the flnange nuts starting out. Sometimes I am a real moron.
I am driving to Midwest tomorrow if they are open...gary

 

when you go and get the new one make sure the shaft is clocked pretty close to the old one that way the key will be easier to align. just set them side by side on a flat surface and rotate the new shaft around till it looks close to the old one. also the key should already be in the new pump so try and leave it in there, because i have heard you can put them in backwards

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by MATTIEBOB

when you go and get the new one make sure the shaft is clocked pretty close to the old one that way the key will be easier to align. just set them side by side on a flat surface and rotate the new shaft around till it looks close to the old one. also the key should already be in the new pump so try and leave it in there, because i have heard you can put them in backwards

I had not thought of aligning the shafts before leaving the core!

Thanks...gary

 

The video is good i done my first one buy the seat of the pants so to speak i can do one now { off & on } in about a hour & half and while you got it off put in a new crank sensor it's under the pump easy to get at with the pump off . Have fun .

 

I have been looking for crank sensor then read a note on Genos saying that it was deleted on 2001 and 2 models.

Does this mean I have a cam position sensor? Should I go ahead and change it also or is it normally accessible?

I am all for changing anything right now that will be harder to replace once the pump is back on.

thanks..gary

 

it's a cam position sensor, the crank sensor has been removed....it used to be on the side of the block near the starter motor