I'll be pulling the tranny and t-case out this weekend to swap in the new torque converter and valve body.
any concerns I should have?
Will the engine balance on the mounts by itself?
Dextron III?
I'll be installing a T in the hot line off the tranny for a temp sending unit.
Which line is the hot side?
Do these trannies have filters or screens?
I know Ford C-6s have screens so I was wondering if the 47RE did the same?

Not looking forward to the project but looking forward to the outcome.

Any help would be great.
Thanks, Ken

 

Ken, I just did the job and was a piece of cake. PM me and I will send all the pics to you. We put a jack under the oil pan with a block of wood, but the engine mounts never moved. I have been running ATF-4, and Dave Goerend wanted ATF-4 again in the tranny he sent. The hot line is an easy install, it is the first line going into the cooler on the engine. Yes the tranny has a filter, and is going to bleed long after jerking it out from under the truck. The crossmember is gonna be the biggest pain, if you have a porta power hyd jack that would save a ton of time. We had to spread the fram with a floor jack and 4x4's. Anyway PM me with an E-,mail address and I will send you pics.

Stephen

 

spray EVERTHING with pb blaster now. When i took mine out last weekend one of my coolant lines were rusted SOLID to the threads. Not to mention the shifter linkage. THe cross member doesnt like to come out. And the Tcase is much heavier than it looks. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ENOUGH FLUID TO PUT BACK IN!! Dont smash your fingers when taking the torque converter in/out. A buddy makes it MUCH eiasier.

most of all, take your time and make sure you have the right tools.

 

Yea mine drank almost everybit I bought, plus the transfer case fluid. Buy a box - o - blue rags, maybe two.. It goes everywhere, no matter how careful you are.

 

Thanks for all of the support.
I know about the crossmember. Had planned on using a highlift jack to spread the frame.
The tranny was replaced just before I bought the truck so most everything should be OK to remove. Maybe 5000 miles ago.
I need to check the service manual to get the capacities so that I have enough fluid to get it back on the road.
I have a motorcycle jack that I have used with the last 5 tranny pulls.
Not sure if the reach will be high enough but I have plenty of blocks to compensate.
I should have plenty of tools for the job.
I don't have too many odd metric tools but this truck has already got me started on my collection
Stephen,
Thanks for the offer
I'll send you a quick pm.

Thanks, Ken

 

the high lift is a good idea, wish i would have thought of it

 

Note - just to clarify, the hot line location that is best for the sensor is the one going to the back of the heat exchanger on the right side of the engine under the exhaust manifold. It is the end nearest the flywheel. In the fitting that screws into the heat exchanger is a check ball that prevents fluid from flowing back into the trans pan from the t/c when the engine is not running. Suncoast recommends removing that ball as it is a major flow impediment. It will require about a 30 second warm up - which you should do for your turbo anyway--- to pump the fluid back into the torque converter. They said it will not harm your trans. I did it to mine about 8 months ago and no problems.

 

Glenn,
Thanks for the update.
I had planned on cutting into the line just before the heat exchanger
I'll look into pulling the check ball out at the same time.

Am I reading correctly - 20 quarts of tranny fluid?

 

depends on what pan you have. it can be as little as 16, or as much as 20, either way, its a high number

 

Yup - Jonny's right. - shows 29 to 33 pints in the book + deep pan mods.

I live in the sticks so all I could get locally was a standard pipe tee - I use 1/2 inch pipe to have room for the censor, then screwed in 1/2"x 1/2" tube compression adapters which fit right onto the trans cooler lines. I did it in the straight vertical section of line at the rear of the cooler also - near the exhaust pipe. No problem. I used a little PTFE paste yhread sealer-- I like the Permatex white type the best - teflon tape leaks and is not recommended.

 

Well,
Got the tranny back in.
Good news is it shifts well, Bad news is the new input seal leaks so it is coming back out.
Should take 1/2 the time this time.
I should have just left the old one in there instead

 

7 hours for me to pull the tranny, install new seal and reinstall.
Didn't take too long at all. Amazing how much less time it is the second time
No leaks so far!