I have a 2000 Ram 2500 Quad Cab 2WD w/ auto tranny
I bought it in March of 2008 with 171k miles
Truck currently has 184k miles on it

I was coming home Wednesday, but didn't quite make it. I drive 27 miles each way back and forth to work. Only three miles from home... with cruise control on... engine coughed twice and died. I rolled to a stop on the side of the road.

I could start in, but it only ran for a few seconds. Sometimes, I hear a dreadful knocking noise when the engine would stop. Other times, it just
sounds like I turned it off. I see a puff of smoke when I restart it, too.

I have an electronic fuel pressure gauge on the truck. It usually runs 5-10 psi all the time.

Yesterday, I removed the pressure sensor and connected a mechanical fuel pressure guage. It reads about 10 psi, too.

I checked codes, and I have 1765 and 1693. Those are not new... I think one is due to the TC lock-up switch I have, and one has been there since I replaced the injector pump last May at 173k miles. I never cleared 'em.

As a lame attempt at a cheap fix, I replaced the fuel filter. Old filter was a bit dirty, but wasn't as nasty as it gets when I normally replace the filter. I normally change the filter when fuel pressure drops below 5 psi.

The truck started and idled great. I sat in the driveway, and reved-up the engine to 2000 rpm with no problems. I backed-up the truck and pulled it forward a couple times. I didn't have anywhere to go, so I just parked it.

I got up this morning to go the church, and the silly thing is doing it, again.... starts right up, runs for 8-10 seconds, then dies abruptly.

What type of diagnostic tasks will help me determine the problem? I don't want to just start throwing a bunch of parts at this thing.

Truck is stock...
Injector pump replaced last May at 173k miles
APPS replaced recenlty
I try to run Power Service with each fillup, but sometimes I forget.

 

Do you have a VEHICLE THEFT ALARM if so read this TSB
Engine Cranks But Does Not Start Or Starts And Stalls
NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A VEHICLE THEFT ALARM (VTA) SYSTEM (SALES CODE LSA).

DISCUSSION:
Part of "No Start" diagnosis on vehicles equipped with VTSS should include a verification check of the power supply to the Central Timer Module (CTM). The CTM provides the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) with an "OK To Start" message via the CCD bus. If the message is not received by the PCM, the PCM will not allow the engine to start. Initially, the engine may start and stall but will eventually not start at all. Most CTMs are supplied battery voltage through the power door lock fuse. An inspection of the fuse should be one of the initial diagnostic checks performed. If the fuse is operational, a verification check of the communication system from the CTM can be performed using the DRBIII®. Attempt to communicate to the CTM. If the CTM does not respond to the DRBIII®, the DRBIII® will identify a "No Response From Central Timer Module" message. A "No Response From Central Timer Module" message may indicate that the CTM is not powered up. Please refer to the "Communication" section of the appropriate Body Diagnostic Procedures Manual to assist in "No Start" diagnosis due to communication problems from the CTM. In addition, the "Vehicle Theft/Security" section will aid in the diagnosis of "No Start" issues involving the VTSS system.

 

I do not think I have VTA. I bought the truck used.

I looked on the "Equipment Identification" sticker on the underside of the hood, and there is not LSA code on the sticker.

Is that the sticker I need to be looking at?

 

Ram Trucks Built At The Warren Truck Assembly Plant
(11th Position Of Vin = “s”) On Or Before September 8, 2000
(mdh 0908xx).
· Ram Trucks Built At The St. Louis North Assembly Plant
(11th Position Of Vin = “j”) On Or Before August 21, 2000 (mdh
0821xx).
· Ram Trucks Built At The Saltillo Truck Assembly Plant
(11th Position Of Vin = “g”) On Or Before August 31, 2000 (mdh
0831xx).
· Ram Trucks Built At The Lago Alberto Truck Assembly
Plant (11th Position Of Vin = “m”) On Or Before September 6,
2000 (mdh 0906xx).

 

VIN Character G
MDH 090822

 

pull fuse 13 (power door lock fuse) for one (1) minute. Re-insert fuse 13. If the CTM is locked up this will unlock it. If you have vehicle theft alarm did you have anyone of these problems.
Remote Keyless Entry Malfunction
· Interior Lights Will Not Come On
· Intermittent Wipers Will Not Function
· Chime Malfunction
· Power Door Lock Malfunction
· Remote Radio Switch Malfunction (if equipped)
· Heated Seat Malfunction (if equipped)
· Engine Will Not Start (if equipped with Vehicle Theft Alarm)
· No Communication With The DRBIII (No Response from CTM)

 

Hopefully is should be OK since it was built after that date

 

Could be Gelled Diesel Fuel.;Engine starts and stalls, hard starts or no start if ambient temperature is below 30 degrees Fahrenheit.
Or it could be power to injection pump. Load test the injection pump power and ground at the injection pump connector using a head light as a load. look for a loose power or ground connection to the injection pump, or a bad fuel injection pump relay could cause a no start or start and die. Try swapping that relay with another relay.

 

Was between 35 and 40 F this morning when I left for work....

• Unplugged fuse 13
• waited
• plugged fuse 13 back in
• turned on key
• waited for "Wait to start" light to go out
• tried to start truck

Truck fired right up and idled great. I was actually a bit surprised.

Since I had somewhere to go this morning, I decided to attempt to drive it to work. My wife stuck her head out the door and said, "If it dies, I'm not coming to get you."

Truck ran fine all the way to work... 27-28 miles.

We'll see if I have to walk home this evening....

 

<sigh>
The tow truck just unloaded White Thunder

Obviously, it isn't fixed.

I tried the "fuse 13" thing several times... it didn't help.

Still no codes using the flip-the-key-on-three-times method.

Tonight, the truck would sputter for a couple minutes before it finally died. Last Wednesday, it sputtered twice and died. When acting up, the rpms dropped to 800 or so. I could repeatedly tap on the throttle, and nothing would happen. All the time, my fuel pressure was still between 7 and 9 psi.

Tonight, I was able to restart the truck a few times [after several attempts] and each time I crawled down the highway another mile or two. I gave up after about an hour and just called the tow truck... 14 miles from home.

Does anyone out there think this could be the injector pump?

I need more diagnostic ideas.