24 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Discuss the 24 Valve engine and drivetrain here. No non-drivetrain discussions please. NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

oil???????

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Oct 22, 2007 | 12:53 PM
  #1  
bullboy85's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 665
Likes: 0
From: bakersfield, ca
oil???????

ok doing my first oil change on this truck. iv been told these trucks love senthetic oil with lucus. is there a better brand? how much oil and how much lucus? is there a better oil filter? is there anything i need to do to flush the old oil out to make the change to senthetic?
Reply
Old Oct 22, 2007 | 01:25 PM
  #2  
Formerice's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
The problem with synthetic oil, if you have a 99 with a lot of miles, it is so detergent it will clean out any buld up in your motor. One solution might be Next change use conventional mineral, Rotella, Delvac etc, but put in one or 2 quarts of correct weight Mobil one to bring it to full, then change it out at perhaps 1,000 miles. Make the switch gradually. Make sure that the synthetic is approved by Cummins. As far as Lucas ,I'm not an advocate of additives.
Reply
Old Oct 22, 2007 | 07:34 PM
  #3  
gunny's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
From: North Carolina
Look for the API rating on the oil jug. A diesel engine requires the CH-4, CI, CF stuff, look in your manual and it'll tell you what you need. Oils that are rated SK, SL and such are for gasoline engines. Some oils are rated for both, such as Rotella T. The "C" oils are compression ignition (diesels) and the "S" is spark ignition.
Reply
Old Oct 23, 2007 | 12:39 AM
  #4  
ShooterMagavin's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
I second that. If it is high mileage the synthetic oil will clean all the carbon built up between your pistons and your rings causing it to smoke for a while.
Reply
Old Oct 23, 2007 | 01:05 AM
  #5  
bullboy85's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 665
Likes: 0
From: bakersfield, ca
iv used cleeners and use the rbp additive that has cleaners in it. as long as it wont hert anything i dont mind the smoke expechely if it does what iv been told for prefomance and milage.
Reply
Old Oct 23, 2007 | 01:09 AM
  #6  
SMOKNISB's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 283
Likes: 0
Just run Valvoline 15W40.
Reply
Old Oct 23, 2007 | 01:20 AM
  #7  
bullboy85's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 665
Likes: 0
From: bakersfield, ca
been told by to many people that senthetics really made there trucks come alive
Reply
Old Oct 23, 2007 | 05:20 AM
  #8  
Valv's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,376
Likes: 1
From: North Carolina
Originally Posted by bullboy85
been told by to many people that senthetics really made there trucks come alive
I think you've been told too many tales....

Use standard Rotella 15-140 and your truck will last forever
Reply
Old Oct 23, 2007 | 09:16 AM
  #9  
Boss Hoss 540's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
From: Texas
I have run Syn for the last 20 years in my oil burners -- never any engine related problems on the Fords, Chevys, or my first Dodge which I am driving now. Some folks are just too cheap to run the good stuff.
Reply
Old Oct 23, 2007 | 10:08 AM
  #10  
supr's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,027
Likes: 0
From: Houston
The conventional oils perform just as well as Synthetic. In some cases they do better, especially in the case of the new CJ, which is inferior in many ways to CI-4, for up to 2007 models. The Valvoline Premium Blue Classic is what was and is sold by Cummins outlets. The NAPA brand in CI-4, if you can find it, is similar. It has the best aditives package in the business.
Synthetics perform better in extremely cold or extremely hot conditions. They are more expensive with litlle quantifiable benefit, mostly feel good marketing.
Cummins makes no exceptions for oil change intervals based on oil type.
Buy the Valavoline, change oil & filer every 4-7k, sleep well at nite. Invest the diffrrence in a mony market certificate.
The main differrence, money in the bank.
Investigate/search some threads, judge for yourself.
Reply
Old Oct 23, 2007 | 07:26 PM
  #11  
afoulk's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 743
Likes: 0
From: Schaefferstown, PA
the past couple TDR issues, if you can get a hold of them, had really good articles on the amount of additives and detergents in the older CI-4+ and new CJ-4 oils, both mineral and synthetic. In almost every case, the synthetic stuff was better on paper than the mineral stuff. When it came to the mineral stuff, the older CI-4+ was better than the CJ-4 in almost every category. The Napa stuff was about middle of the pack (CI-4+), the Valvoline (CI-4+) being slightly better, and their synthetic (CJ-4) being closer to the top. I'd just stick with a good CI-4+ mineral if you can still find it. Its getting to the point where CJ-4 is all you can find.
As for the oil filter, I'd stick with Fleetguard filter with the *Stratopore media in it. Try Genosgarage.com for those. Sorry, I can't remember the part # for them off hand.
Reply
Old Oct 23, 2007 | 11:37 PM
  #12  
JSPulliam21's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 693
Likes: 0
From: Mount Juliet, TN
Oil filter: Fleetguard Stratapore LF3894.
Oil: Shell Rotella T, Valvoline Premium Blue, Mobil Delvac, Chevron Delo.
OCI: < 7000 miles without oil analysis.
Choose synthetic, real synthetic not group III petroleum, for severe duty. Severe duty to me is heavy constant towing, competition, extreme cold, or extreme heat.
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ian515
3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007
7
Oct 16, 2007 07:02 PM
TxDiesel007
12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain
15
Jan 18, 2006 01:19 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:30 AM.