Nu-B 24 valve info please
10-03-2006, 01:47 PM
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Nu-B 24 valve info please
I have learned a lot about my 12 valve over the past year and a half since joining this site. Now I need to start all over again, because my friend just bought a '99 24-valve. He got a decent deal on it. Specs are:
'99 3500 auto, 4x4, dually quad cab, 4.10 gears, limited slip rear with 84,000 miles.
He got it for $3000 because it had been laid on its side. It was a light roll, and the only non bolt-on repair it needs is a minor dent in the rear of the upper cab side panel, just behind the driver's rear door window. The LR door is fine, but the truck needed a nose and driver's front door. We bought a part's truck to get the nose parts, and purchased the rest of the parts off ebay. Right now he has under $4000 in the complete truck and parts/parts truck.
Now I need to start learning the quirks of the 24 valve. It has a new lift pump on it, not sure of the source- the PO installed it. Other than pump issues, what should we start watching on this truck? What should be upgraded first? Reliability is his main priority, then power. He doesn't really tow much, or very often. I tried convincing him to ditch the dually rear fenders and wheels and run it as a single wheel, to save on tires, and repair costs...we still need to find a set of dually fenders, and they are hard to find and big $$$. But he is set on keeping it a dually.
Jim
'99 3500 auto, 4x4, dually quad cab, 4.10 gears, limited slip rear with 84,000 miles.
He got it for $3000 because it had been laid on its side. It was a light roll, and the only non bolt-on repair it needs is a minor dent in the rear of the upper cab side panel, just behind the driver's rear door window. The LR door is fine, but the truck needed a nose and driver's front door. We bought a part's truck to get the nose parts, and purchased the rest of the parts off ebay. Right now he has under $4000 in the complete truck and parts/parts truck.
Now I need to start learning the quirks of the 24 valve. It has a new lift pump on it, not sure of the source- the PO installed it. Other than pump issues, what should we start watching on this truck? What should be upgraded first? Reliability is his main priority, then power. He doesn't really tow much, or very often. I tried convincing him to ditch the dually rear fenders and wheels and run it as a single wheel, to save on tires, and repair costs...we still need to find a set of dually fenders, and they are hard to find and big $$$. But he is set on keeping it a dually.
Jim
10-03-2006, 03:51 PM
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The 24-valves have the following issues:
• Most injection pumps (VP44) on these engines will eventually fail due to poor engineering design. Replacement cost is about $1000 to $2000.
• The lift pumps on these trucks are also a problem, they will fail over and over again. Replacement cost is about $100 to $400, depending how good you want your set up to be.
• Some of the early 1998.5 to 2000 engines had poorly manufactured blocks that had a tendency to develop a stress crack. These are the dreaded “53-blocks.”
Bart Timothy posted the following:
There are some things you can do to improve the reliability of your '02 (or any 24-valve).
Check the fuel pressure, paying attention to how steady the needle is, rather than to fuel
pressure. This will help gauge the health of your VP44. Assuming the gauge is rock
steady, with no bouncing, and contaminated fuel (water etc.) hasn't been used, the VP44
is probably in good shape.
If the fuel pressure is really low, say under 5 or 6 lbs at WOT, replace the lift pump.
Relocate the lift pump back to the frame, by the tank, and install a big line kit or larger
banjos. Use an after-market lift pump if you like. Power the lift pump by a separate power source instead of the stock power off the ECM.
Relocate the puke bottle, or service it every oil change.
Occasionally check the exhaust manifold bolts for tightness.
• Most injection pumps (VP44) on these engines will eventually fail due to poor engineering design. Replacement cost is about $1000 to $2000.
• The lift pumps on these trucks are also a problem, they will fail over and over again. Replacement cost is about $100 to $400, depending how good you want your set up to be.
• Some of the early 1998.5 to 2000 engines had poorly manufactured blocks that had a tendency to develop a stress crack. These are the dreaded “53-blocks.”
Bart Timothy posted the following:
There are some things you can do to improve the reliability of your '02 (or any 24-valve).
Check the fuel pressure, paying attention to how steady the needle is, rather than to fuel
pressure. This will help gauge the health of your VP44. Assuming the gauge is rock
steady, with no bouncing, and contaminated fuel (water etc.) hasn't been used, the VP44
is probably in good shape.
If the fuel pressure is really low, say under 5 or 6 lbs at WOT, replace the lift pump.
Relocate the lift pump back to the frame, by the tank, and install a big line kit or larger
banjos. Use an after-market lift pump if you like. Power the lift pump by a separate power source instead of the stock power off the ECM.
Relocate the puke bottle, or service it every oil change.
Occasionally check the exhaust manifold bolts for tightness.
10-03-2006, 04:37 PM
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Thanks for the info. I kind of had a rough idea of the basic issues, from browsing this site in the past, but you gave me the specific info. Has anyone swapped out a 24 valve head for a 12 valve and P-pump? It sounds like that would be the best route to get rid of any problems completely. Either that or try to convince him to sell his truck for enough money when its done to buy a 12-valve. At least he will have a better truck than a Powerjoke!
Jim
Jim
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