New VP44 now no start
Jay, sorry but you are not reading 27 >>volts AC<< at the lug. I guess you ignored my post where I measured 0.035 AC Volts. If you take your DVM and try to measure the AC line voltage from an outlet do you see about 120 volts AC? If you do see the correct voltage, don’t change the range on the meter and try your alternator test again. You will not see 27 volts AC.
I take it back, you are reading 27 volts AC and your video demonstrates that the DVM properly reads AC line voltage from the outlet.
I think we can both agree that the batteries in our trucks are 12 volts DC and if the engine is not running the alternator is not putting out any voltage, AC or DC. I will also bet if you use your DVM on the AC voltage range you used in your video that you will see the same 27 volts AC right on the battery. Your DVM is not blocking the DC voltage the way it should. That being said, don’t let Industrial off the hook. If they claim the AC voltage you measured caused the pumps to fail, verify with a good DVM that there is not 27 volts AC coming out of your alternator and get a refund.
Sorry for doubting your claim. I would also think that the AC was present if I saw what you did. But believe me the DVM you are using is not right.
I think we can both agree that the batteries in our trucks are 12 volts DC and if the engine is not running the alternator is not putting out any voltage, AC or DC. I will also bet if you use your DVM on the AC voltage range you used in your video that you will see the same 27 volts AC right on the battery. Your DVM is not blocking the DC voltage the way it should. That being said, don’t let Industrial off the hook. If they claim the AC voltage you measured caused the pumps to fail, verify with a good DVM that there is not 27 volts AC coming out of your alternator and get a refund.
Sorry for doubting your claim. I would also think that the AC was present if I saw what you did. But believe me the DVM you are using is not right.
Yeah, I couldnt figure it out either. If I can ever get anyone from Industrial on the phone I will for sure ask for a differnt reason of why this project has cost me so much. I will keep everyone posted..
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Tested three Chrysler products running at alternator. All showed 27 v or so on cheap analog volt meter. A FLUKE and high end Sears DVOM both showed zero. Cheap must be doubling voltage on AC while good ones can tell better. JMHO.
Good possibility that hot rod pump has inferior electronics perhaps from CHEZ after your experience. Guess we really want the good Bosch stuff.
Good possibility that hot rod pump has inferior electronics perhaps from CHEZ after your experience. Guess we really want the good Bosch stuff.
Thanks dozer12216. I was beginning to think I was having a senior moment.
The meter I used was a Fluke. It must be that some meters use “averaging” in their circuits to get an AC voltage measurement and seeing a 14 VDC signal confuses it. Jays98dodge meter was able to read the AC line voltage perfectly, but the line voltage has no DC component. I still wonder if one of the misreading meters would measure 27 VAC if it was placed directly on the 12 volt battery.
The meter I used was a Fluke. It must be that some meters use “averaging” in their circuits to get an AC voltage measurement and seeing a 14 VDC signal confuses it. Jays98dodge meter was able to read the AC line voltage perfectly, but the line voltage has no DC component. I still wonder if one of the misreading meters would measure 27 VAC if it was placed directly on the 12 volt battery.
I wonder if the difference is in the meters, some meters do a better job of reading 'true RMS' value of voltage than others do. If the 'produced' DC is not really clean, it could cause a miss reading on the AC side of the meter if the meter does NOT accuratly read 'true RMS' voltages.
Here is a link that kinda splains it.
DuaneW.
Here is a link that kinda splains it.
DuaneW.
My cheap meter will show 27 acv on the battery post on every car I tried it on.
I just got off the phone with Industrial and I think there going to refund some money, they say they want to see if Bosch will warrenty these two bads ones first.
I just got off the phone with Industrial and I think there going to refund some money, they say they want to see if Bosch will warrenty these two bads ones first.
Yes, i know brady.i think he's the owner, brett is his son and he's on the phone all the time..... they could have got a bad batch of control modules.... hang in there, they'll take care of you
This truck is a 2002 6speed with a quadzilla chip and glacier fuel system.
Truck ran but was in need of a new injection pump. I replaced with a Industrial Injection Hot Rod pump now the truck wont start. Has 8 psi of fuel pressure at VP44 and injector lines are loose with no sign of fuel. I put on a Snap on scanner and no codes. I watch the scanner when trying to start the truck and it never changes the "fuel shut off" its always on. That singnal wire is lite blue with red strip that runs to the VP44, it is dead when cranking and then when you turn the key completly off it hits 12 volts just for a second. I tested the other wires that run to the pump and all are working?? I dont know what else to look for..
Truck ran but was in need of a new injection pump. I replaced with a Industrial Injection Hot Rod pump now the truck wont start. Has 8 psi of fuel pressure at VP44 and injector lines are loose with no sign of fuel. I put on a Snap on scanner and no codes. I watch the scanner when trying to start the truck and it never changes the "fuel shut off" its always on. That singnal wire is lite blue with red strip that runs to the VP44, it is dead when cranking and then when you turn the key completly off it hits 12 volts just for a second. I tested the other wires that run to the pump and all are working?? I dont know what else to look for..
I just put a new vp44 on and had trouble starting. This is what I did... cracked the valve on pump and bumped the key to make lift pump run do this 2 or 3 times to make sure you are free of bubbles. Do not crank while this valve is open because you will just suck in air. After bubbles go away and just a good amount of fuel is dripping tighten. Then crack ever single injector line even #6. One at a time and crank engine for 10 seconds per line. Then I did 1 and 2 once again and got more of a sputter so then i did 2 and 4 got the sputter again. Finally i closed all of them and held that key for 20 seconds and she fired up! Ran funny for about 30 seconds then was great and still is. Hope this helps
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