24 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Discuss the 24 Valve engine and drivetrain here. No non-drivetrain discussions please. NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

New owner new problems

Old 03-21-2019, 10:02 AM
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New owner new problems

Hello, I just got my first diesel pickup truck. I do have general knowledge of mechanics, but these diesels seem to be a breed all of their own. I am having some problems with this 98.5 24 valve. Firstly, let me start by saying what problems I was having in the beginning. There were several codes read by the OBD2 scanner. P0122, p0463, p1693, p0380 p0382, p0237. For the p0122 code which is a TPS code after some looking online I decided to adjust the screw in front of the TPS and was able to get that code to go away. The the p0463 which is a fuel level sensor code went away with it. The codes p0380 and p0382 are glow plug circuit a&b codes. Somebody in the past wired in a push button to activate the intake heater I'm thinking that has to do with those two codes but I'm not sure. I tested my fuel pressure with a pressure gauge and was getting 10 psi at idle. So I replaced the lift pump with a fass DRP 02 drop in pump. I now have around 18 PSI at idle pressure. The turbo fan has some play in it, so I have ordered a turbo to replace that. For the p0237 code, I replaced the map sensor. But that did not help, and the code persisted. Also it should be noted that my OBD2 scanner read that I was getting around 15 lb of boost at idle and 28 lb of boost power braking.

Now now for the issues. It is very difficult to start in the morning. I have to crank for at least 10 seconds or longer sometimes to get it to start depending on how cold it is. I have tried clearing the p0237 and p0380 p0382 and p1693 codes. They are stuck they will not erase even if the engine is not running. Also, the brake light and abs lights seem to have a mind of their own and come on and turned off regularly. I'm sorry I know this is a lot of information. But I figured I would throw it all out there and any help in any of these categories would be appreciated.

Thank you to anybody and everybody I can help me out of this sticky situation.

Last edited by JKKM; 03-21-2019 at 10:04 AM. Reason: Modify facts
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Old 03-22-2019, 08:01 AM
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Are you using the grid heaters in the cold mornings to help start your truck, or just instantly turning the key like it is a gasser?

15 PSI at idle is pretty weird my Cummins motors have basically 0 PSI at idle.
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Old 03-22-2019, 09:25 AM
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Yes I use the push button on cold mornings, it does not make a difference. It still cranks for several seconds before starting. The pressure is red with a OBD2 scanner not with a manual gauge, so I don't know how accurate that is. do you have any advice on any of the other things mentioned?
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Old 03-22-2019, 11:59 AM
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Push button??? What push button are you talking about?

I personally trust manual gauges, over electric scanners every time.
It is unlikely you are build lots of boost at idle.
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Old 03-22-2019, 01:03 PM
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Wink Push Button

Originally Posted by oliver foster View Post
Push button??? What push button are you talking about?
.
Hello All,
Read his entire post " Somebody in the past wired in a push button to activate the intake heater I'm thinking that has to do with those two codes but I'm not sure"
Happy Mopar
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Old 03-22-2019, 01:16 PM
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I unwired the push button and wired backup the original wires back into the relays. I tried clearing the codes, but they will not erase.
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Old 03-22-2019, 05:22 PM
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Well, the Cummins engine has a MAP sensor- meaning Manifold Absolute Pressure- and a lot of the scanners declare this as boost- but still at sea level you already have 14.7 psi of absolute pressure, even with no engine.
Power braking to 13 psi of boost (28-15 for atmospheric pressure) can kill your transmission.

The codes talking about signal low for a sensor mean that either the true value is low, or the sensor reads something low, or the voltage reaching the ECM being low- so this means that you either have something wrong physically, or a defective sensor, or a wiring problem (and with extremely low probability a defective ECM)
Hard starting - go to bluechipdiesel.com, read the hotwiring instructions and then check again with the truck at temperatures above freezing-

If it starts within 2-3 seconds of cranking your codes could be the source of the problem- if not check for air getting into the fuel supply. (like the banjo bolt seals at the back of the head..)
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Old 03-23-2019, 12:54 PM
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The turbo should have a bit of play, if it's not leaking oil on the output side you should be ok. 10 psi of fuel pressure at idle is ok, but you don't want it to drop below 5 or so under power.

Sounds like your truck has been tinkered with. I'd start with a set of gauges, at least fuel pressure and exhaust temp so you can get an actual reading while driving around, unless you just bought it to power brake......
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