One of the reasons I feel that last "thud" is the tranny shifting in to overdrive, is because it's the same "thud" when I manually shift it into over drve using the push button at the end of the shifter. I use that button quite abit while towing heavy. But I'll check it out later. I'll not only note the speed at each shift, but also the rpm drop of each shift.

 

Sunir - OK, so I think I was wrong.....partly. Now I did this several times and I got the same results. For this testing I just throttled normal, not hammering it and not going real easy either. Just normal. From stop, 1st to 2nd gear shift @ 20 mph, with about 100 rpm drop. Then 2nd to 3rd gear shift @ 30 mph, with 100 rpm drop. Then at 40 mph the torque converter(i think) locked with a 300 rpm drop. Now for the overdrive, it shifted @ 55 mph, with a 500 rpm drop.

At this point I thought I'd try a WOT run. Everything about the same. 1st to 2nd shift @ 25 mph with about 100 rpm drop. 2nd to 3rd shift @ 35 or 36 mph with about 100 rpm drop. The torque converter (i think) locked at about 45 or so mph with about 300 rpm drop. Overdrive shifted at 60-65 mph with about a 600 rpm drop. Also, when it shifted into overdrive, the torque converter seemed to unlock, shift and then relock, real quick like. But with the normal throttle, I couldn't detect this.

Now I thought I'd try with no overdrive. So I pushed the button off. From stop, the 1st to 2nd shift @20 mph with 100 rpm drop. 2nd to 3rd shift @ 30 with a 100 rpm drop. The torque (i think) converter locked at @ 40 mph with a 300 rpm drop. And then the rpm would either go up or down with the speed of the truck, depending on how I throttled, always pretty much in unison. If I pushed the button and shifted into overdrive, the rpms would drop 500-600 rpm, just depended on my actual truck speed.

So, I've come to the conclusion that I was confusing the 2nd to 3rd gear shift with the torque converter lock. But I still believe that it does lock before overdrive engages.

Now tomorrow morning while cold, I'll recheck the shift points and rpm drop.

Does this make any sense? I was getting confused myself trying to drive, watch the tack and speedo and write all at the same time. So I hope I'm making sense.

 

JPR Ram/Sunir,

On '01-'02 models the trans should be shifting 1-2-3 unlocked, go to locked 3rd and then unlock/relock for the shift into 4th (OD). I understand the earlier and later models do not lock until 4th (OD). Also for at least the '02 and earlier models the converter unlocks when you let off the throttle. At least some of the third gens, I have been told, don't do that.

The converter lockup is only about 200 RPM or so. The regular gear changes are more than that but may not show up as such because of the slip in the converter. I haven't paid that much attention to the RPM drop unlocked lately and can't remember. CRS, I guess. Also the lockup shouldn't be all that severe although different VB builds might affect the way that feels.

JPR Ram,

Your shift points sound about right. You would have a much greater RPM drop in the gears if you were shifting locked up. It's been so long since I ran through the gears unlocked I can't tell you how much drop there is but 100 RPM doesn't seem like much. Otherwise you got it about right. These converters have so much slip there is not much of an RPM drop so that may be why. Locked is day and night difference. Guess I might have to try it next time I have a chance. Most of the time I drive like a little old lady but I do know exactly what that right pedal is for.

Sunir,

When the converter locks up it will be fully locked unless there is something wrong. If it doesn't, it's slipping and it will cause you untold amounts of grief. Don't even want to go there.

 

Just as a note. My '00 will lock in third gear before going into OD. You can definitely feel the converter lock into third. Man does she pull hard once third is locked.
That is why I want this controller or the MS to keep the trans locked in all gears and pull like that all the time and also keep temps down a little...

Just another quick question that has me bugged... Are the relays that are being used for this, just standard 30 amp automotive relays?? The diagrams do not show a post 87a, so that makes me wonder if they are using some other type of relay. JUst wondering????

 

My 2 cents.

My 01' shifts 1,2,3, lock, quick unlock relock as it goes into OD.
Factory logic is that they delay lockup when cold so that torque converter can generate some heat in the trans to improve cold weather lube and shifting as soon as possible. As you all know, when it's cold shifts are a little sluggish. OD engagement is delayed until trans temp is over 40 degrees because the OD unit which is slapped on the back of a 3 speed 727 is fed it's oil by two small steel tubes which run from the back of the main trans to the OD unit,(internally). When cold, Dodge found that the oil was so thick and slow moving in these tubes that you would not get full apply pressure for the OD clutches and would not get proper lube thus causing the OD unit to burn up. Moral of the story is try to warm up your trans before you go reaching for OD and lockup. If you are like me and are on the highway after 4 blocks then maybe just sitting in drive with you foot on the brake for a couple of minutes will get some heat in there. It certainly makes mine shift much quicker/firmer.
I plan on doing a lockup switch soon as well, I like the old floor dimmer idea. Just run your power feed off of a brake switch feed so if you have to panic stop the converter unlocks as soon as you hit the stop pedal.

 

is this like the ats trans controller? where can it be bought?

 

it's from SP diesel...

 

*******Floor dimmer sw or similar SPDT

PCM---orange/black------: :------------GROUND
****************|*** \/
****************|*** |--------------- To TRANS
****************R***COM. Terminal
****************2
****************2
****************0
****************|------------- 12V IGN Source (tapped @ PCM)

Here is the way I did mine. The R220 is a 220 ohm 1/2 watt resistor available
from Radio shack or lots of other places. You won't have to bypass the transmission relay because the resistor will fool the pcm into thinking every thing is normal. You will have to cut the orange/black wire though. The stars are just spaces wouldn't post the way I wanted it too.

 

Russ Roth - Ok I installed a mystery switch this weekend. I tapped the orange w/ black tracer wire. The attached a wire, ran it into the cab to a 33 ohm resister to a switch and finally ground. I left the relay in.

If I leave it in drive, start moving and flip the switch after 2nd, it stacks the gears. I try it manually as stated above.

But when at hwy speeds, switch flipped, and I start slowing, I try to pull it out of O/D (so as not to lug too much), But it won't come out. Am I doing something wrong? Did I wire it wrong? I think you work for Dunrite, so how does Tony reconmend to do the wiring?

 

I did exactly as JPR did. Orange-black - B11 by the air cleaner - 33 ohm - switch to ground.

Mine works fine.

It locks up in all gears and shifts in lockup from low to high.

I have read that I would not get downshift in lockup once in 4th (overdrive) locked up, but going up hills I get normal downshift clear down to second gear and still in lockup. I can take overdrive off while in 4th lockup - it drops to 3rd but will still drop to second if the throttle is pressed.

It is later than unlocked but in most sitations works fine - a bit toward the lugging side but immediately kicks down if the throttle is pressed harder.

Not complaining - just wondering.

Could it be because I have a Suncoast Valve Body? Also DTT T/C and stock rest of the transmission - 47RE as I recall.