I'm new here so please bear with me. I am a x-stroker man,after four of them I give up. I have owned afew 12 valvers so I am real familiar those, but I thought I had to have one of these 24 valvers. I know very little about it so far. I have heard all about the lift pump troubles but no trouble so far(10 months&amp;17,000 miles) The truck has a Quadzillla module,A BIG BIG K/N,&amp; 4&quot; s.s. exhaust and boost&amp;pyro guages.<br>The truck runs great and pretty fair mpg's(3500 4x4 dually 6-speed,3:55)17-19hwy,14-15city<br>Anyway i was wondering about map sensor mods? I know the module fools it to a point but I was thinking about making it think it had 17 lbs of boost all the time. Maybe help on that turbo lag a little. Any thoughts on this? Kinda like the way the stroker trick works if yall are familiar with it.<br>Just thought I would throw this out here and see what you thought?

 

I have heard about the stroker trick.<br>My friend has a 01 HO 6spd cummins and he just unpluged the map sensor. It poors out the black smoke. I don't know if it is good or bad but it runs great. well not as great as MINE but it runs a lot better than stoke. P/S he also hae a fueling box from super chips. I think that is the name. I know they only made Powerstroke chips for a long time.<br>DM01<br>

 

If the engine thinks it has 17 lbs of boost when it has none, it would certainly allow fuel to be added without waiting on boost. That's what a lot of the &quot;boxes&quot; do. They fool with the MAP data. That's why you get black smoke. Fuel is added before boost is up. Sounds like you understand the way the &quot;smarts&quot; work on the 24V.

 

Dodgeman, is your friends truck throwing any codes by having the MAP sensor unhooked?

 

I don't know. He has had it in for some reapirs to the engine and they never said anthing.<br>beats the poop out of me.<br>DM01

 

Being a welder/pipefitter by trade my first try will simply be a piece of pipe with threads in one end for the sensor and a valve stem in the other for the air. I think this will work unless the pcm needs to get a actual atmospheric pressure when the key is first turned on(like the stroker). If so i will have to use a check valve to let manifold pressure in and a normally open solenoid valve to let the pressure out when the key is switched off. I think this will be my project tommorow. Let yall know which work. If anyone has tried this in any way please let me know your results and conclusions. I do know the stroker map is for elevation adjustments in the fuel. Dont think the cummins works this way,is there two meanings for MAP???<br>Maybe I'm confusing myself!

 

[quote author=BIGOKIE link=board=4;threadid=8591;start=0#83094 date=1040441044]<br>unless the pcm needs to get a actual atmospheric pressure when the key is first turned on(like the stroker). If so i will <br>[/quote]<br><br>The Cummins requires a reading from the MAP at start up to determine atmospheric conditions. It then calibrates from there. I think you may be further ahead letting a good timing/fueling box determine your fueling levels, as pouring too much fuel into a Cummins at low RPM will tend to quench the fire, and kill your bottom end.<br><br>But if you've got access to GTech or dyno and some time on your hands, I'd like to see your results :-)<br><br>Rod

 

I havnt had much time to tinker today but I did unplug the map this morning and drove down the road a mile or so. Boy that baby was a dog. I pluged it back in while it was still running and the throttle response was very greatly improved(quite a bit of smoke though)but after a couple of miles it was back to normal. I guess the thing recalibrated. I would just like to cut down on the mash the pedal and wait time.

 

I think that the 24v has an extra second of wait when you first thit the go pedal. My friends 01 has a hesitation that my 12v does not have. I think it is just the pump takeing longer to get the signal to open. I maybe wrong.<br>DM01

 

Well I made some progress today. Out in the shop I found the hose off of my compression testing gauge and said huh this might work. It has a valve core in the end to serve as a check valve so I screwed the gauge off and inserted the map sensor. Only thing is the threads are slightly different. I drug out everything looking for a match but no luck. Left my gorilla thread identifier at work but its got to be metric. Anyway I used some teflon tape and got about two threads(seemed to seal)on it and went for a drive. Once I built a good boost I slowed and hit it again &quot;walla&quot; instant thottle response. There was a little dark cloud associated with every gear change also. I was afraid that when I shut it off and restarted it woulnt calibrate right with pressure on the line but after six tries it still works fine. I think I'll leave it for a few days to see what happens and try to find the right threaded fittings. Let yall know what happens.

 

Well so far so good. If I could just find the right fittings. I wonder what parameters I've changed by doing this,timing maybe?? It does have a different tone (slightly more rattle) at highway speeds but fuel mileage seems if any thing maybe very slightly better on the road but maybe worse in town cause I like to blow smoke every now and again. Everthing else seems kosher.<br>Merry x-mas

 

Well its been about two and a half months now and the map sensor mod is still working great. <br>Now if I could just idle it down a bit without going to the dealer

 

So let me get this straight, you completely unscrewed the MAP sensor from the block, inserted the end of a compression check hose into the block and threaded the MAP sensor on to it and it works fine with the exception of being slightly different threads? Did you cut the hose down any? Do you have any pics you could show us? How much boost are you seeing? How bout the EGT's? Do you have to have a box to do this? I've got one but it is being shipped to Edge for warranty work. I may do this tomorrow. Would any compression checker work? My buddy's got one he uses for his gas engine and I was curious if I could use that. If not, then what parts do I need to buy?

 

[quote author=BigBlue link=board=4;threadid=8591;start=0#111040 date=1046673443]<br>So let me get this straight, you completely unscrewed the MAP sensor from the block, inserted the end of a compression check hose into the block and threaded the MAP sensor on to it and it works fine with the exception of being slightly different threads? Did you cut the hose down any? Do you have any pics you could show us? How much boost are you seeing? How bout the EGT's? Do you have to have a box to do this? I've got one but it is being shipped to Edge for warranty work. I may do this tomorrow. Would any compression checker work? My buddy's got one he uses for his gas engine and I was curious if I could use that. If not, then what parts do I need to buy?<br>[/quote]<br><br>Me too, I would like to give it a try, but want to see some pictures first. I guess I haven't looked at a compression checker enough to know that you can unscrew the gauge and use the check valve. I like it though, neat and cheap right up my alley!!!!!!

 

Been out of town guys. Really really sorry for not getting back to yall sooner. <br>The compression checker come from Sears(it has the multi-size threads on the plug end and a quick connect one the guage end). First unscrew the guage off the quick connect end of the hose Then unplug the map and remove it,screw the spark plug end of the hose into where the map was,you will only get about two threads cause they are different(metric),then screw the map into the quick connect end of the hose and plug it back up. Walla your done. It didnt change my boost or pyro any that I could tell. It just shoots the fuel to it when you mash the pedal instead of waitng for turbo boost. As far as if you have to have a box for it to work I dont Know. I have a 65hp Quadzilla box on mine. My digital camera crapped out or I would send pics. Money kinda tight or I would buy another but all my money goes too buying all this low priced diesel we have :'( &gt;