It's an issue with the first few years of 24v trucks. A small (but noticable) percentage of them cracked.

Member Stamey has TONS of info on them on his page-
http://www.stamey.info/Truck/Cummins53BlockFAQ.htm

 

thanks for the link.

 

I just looked at mine, since I didn't know to check before I bought it
and it doesn't have the 53 on either side of the block.

It's an 01 High OUTPUT 6 speed truck.

What block do I have with no numbers in Left or right 53 number locations?

 

It will have numbers, either 53-55 in big letters, or a long series of smaller numbers that are harder to see. The longer series of smaller numbers is the "best" block but in reality all of these motors are work horses and as long as you don't notice any seeping coolant from the block you'll be good to go.

 

Are these going to be small numbers in same places?

I cleaned the pads where the larger 53 would be cast into block. I didn't see any numbers at all. I am 99% sure I am looking right places on RH and LH lower forward block areas (per pictures posted in this forum on the 53 ID 'how to') Maybe I can look again and post picture or two?

 

I had 2 53 blocks and never had a problem. Did all my mods and worked them out good. One was sold at 243,000 the other at 228,000 miles.

Don't make it bigger than what it is, there's hundreds of thousands out there running with no problem.

 

I was a victim of the crack, happened at 140k miles. I called Cummins & tried to buy a new block with plans of a complete rebuild on my dollar. The Cummins rep told me that Cummins is covering the parts due to bad design on their part. I didn't have the mods that appear in my sig now, but I towed heavy daily. I took the engine out of the truck before the call & they said to bring it in to the nearest Cummins shop where a new Mexican block, rings, bearings & gaskets were waiting for me. I did that & had the engine back 2 days later, but I did have to pay labor costs of $1700 which I had no complaints....they even painted the engine black for me.

 

Mine cracked before 148000. Local Cummins labor would have been at least 4-5000 with them pulling and replacing the block so I got one from a burned rig and took their $1000 offer for doing it on my own.

 

I have heard all kinds of stories about the 53 block. Take your pick of the following:

* It's just a myth
* They all crack eventually
* It's caused by the block twisting under hard acceleration
* It's caused by cool/heat cycles
* It's caused by cavitation
* It's caused by towing at high elevation, in the mountains
* It's caused by bombing
* You can't weld it
* You can weld it
* Gotta fix it with lock-n-stitch
* Lock-n stitch won't work
* The list goes on.

There's also a fix that's supposed to keep it from cracking. It involves drilling & tapping holes and bolting a strengthening bracket to the right side of the block. Whether this works I don't know

Here's what I have found out through lots of internet research:
The 53 blocks were cast in Brazil and on SOME of them, the mold shifted during the process, which caused the casting to come out thinner than usual on the right side, and more susceptible to cracking. Some crack on the right side, fewer on the left. But that's not all of them. I have a 53 block, and that's what caused me to do all this research in the first place. My truck has 180K on it and it's not cracked. That's not to say it won't. But there are many more out there that are not cracked than are. If it was that big a problem they would have recalled them. As it is, I heard they are covering some of them if they have less than 150K on them, but you have to pay for the labor.

So, just do like I do. Drive it and forget it. If it cracks, I'll just find me a wrecked truck and get the engine out of it.

 

53 here w/no probs. Knocking on Wood! Bought the truck, found this site, ran out to check the block and kind of felt the same way but hey, keep up the maint. and drive it like you stole it. Also tow a 5k boat.

 

Relax and enjoy your truck. I have the 53 block and it has cracked. I have over 150,000 miles on it so I don't qualify for the Cummins offer. The crack does not affect the operation of the engine in the least bit. If I am towing very heavy I have to watch my coolant level and top off often. During normal everyday driving and not towing heavy I lose very little if any coolant. At least on my truck the crack has not been a big deal.

I tow regulary any where from a few thousand pounds up to 26,000 pounds not including the weight of the truck itself.

Bottom line for me is that the crack is not preferable but not a show stopper. I have considered trying to have it repaired or replaced but don't see any urgency to do it.

 

I did the same as you, Pirate. Started slow about 5 inches long. Within 4 months it was 17 inches long and using 30 gallons of water to go 6o miles. I'd use the bonus time you are getting now to find a used block or a plan for replacement.

Also -- did you talk to Cummins ?-- I would call them at 1-800-diesels and ask nicely at least. I took the $1000 as labor was quoted to me at 4 to 5K

 

Thanks for the information Glenn. I'm actually planning on a replacement in the form of an '05 or newer with 6 speed transmission. Pulling heavy is not doing any favors for the automatic.

 

after listening to all the comments about the 53 blocks, i checked my truck and i have the 53 block. truck has 189k on it and i could care less about the 53 block. if it was gonna blow, it's gonna blow. truck runs great and i couldn't be happier with it. as the song goes-" jimmy crack corn and i ......"

 

No problem, Pirate.

All through the time I ran mine cracked it ran great -- even at 30 gallons water per day - I only got it extra hot a couple times while cracked.

I found that the dealer who replaced the IP had a dork mechanic who smashed the key in half on the IP. I think it was advanced 1/2 key or so and that may have had something to do with adding stress to the block. It was that way about a year. Never did get any codes because of that.