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I found a list of keys. Notice number 36 has no offset. I measured a 035 that I have with a feeler gauge, it has 0.05mm (0.002 in) offset. So I assume each number key changes by 0.05mm. So a 026 key would be offset 0.500 mm (0.020 in). That small amount equals 2.6 degrees at the pump or 5 deg. at the crank. BTW the arrow on the key points to the pump. Numbers over 036 retard. http://apps.bosch.com.au/AAExtranet_...DISM-V0008.PDF
Sorry to Hijack this thread, but I am repairing my VP44 and need to replace a capacitor, though don't know what type to buy.
Does anyone know the capacitance of the capacitor circled in the picture?
I've never heard of anyone replacing the capacitor but rather the transistor which is the top right black item in your picture with LR2905Z on the top. How did you come to the conclusion that it was the transistor?
Sorry to Hijack this thread, but I am repairing my VP44 and need to replace a capacitor, though don't know what type to buy.
Does anyone know the capacitance of the capacitor circled in the picture?
Hi,
I hope that my answer is not coming too late…
I fixed a VP44 injection pump on my audi A6 V6 TDI engine about 11 years ago, and my repair is still working, I still own the car.
I had also the issue with the damaged MOSFET of the top of the pump, but when I decided to resolder a wire to the Gate pad, I destroyed it completely, as described early in this thread.
As I didn’t had the money, neither the tools and the knowledge to replace the electrical steering unit of the pump and recode it, I tried to find the “other end” of the electrical connection of this pad. And, if I remember correctly, it ends up at one end of this capacitor, where I soldered successfully a tiny very flexible wire.
According to my remembrance, the Gate pad is connected through a 1kohm resistor in parallel to this capacitor. I used 10nF.
I’m not sure why, but I was not able to connect to the Gate pad side on the ceramic board, but I connected the Gate through the 1kohm resistor in parallel with the 10nF capacitor to the ceramic board, and the injection pump is working fine since that fix. The car drove 154 000 km whith this.
Attached some photos of the fix realization taken this morning I decided to drill 2 holes on the side of the ceramic board housing to take the Gate and Source out, tightened with silicone. The MOSFET is mounted on a radiator on the top of the cover of the pump, tight by silicone also and insulated of course. The Source pin is directly connected to the coil, as shown earlier in this forum
Sorry to Hijack this thread, but I am repairing my VP44 and need to replace a capacitor, though don't know what type to buy.
Does anyone know the capacitance of the capacitor circled in the picture?
Hi,
I hope that my answer is not coming too late…
I fixed a VP44 injection pump on my audi A6 V6 TDI engine about 11 years ago, and my repair is still working, I still own the car.
I had also the issue with the damaged MOSFET of the top of the pump, but when I decided to resolder a wire to the Gate pad, I destroyed it completely, as described early in this thread.
As I didn’t had the money, neither the tools and the knowledge to replace the electrical steering unit of the pump and recode it, I tried to find the “other end” of the electrical connection of this pad. And, if I remember correctly, it ends up at one end of this capacitor, where I soldered successfully a tiny very flexible wire.
According to my remembrance, the Gate pad is connected through a 1kohm resistor in parallel to this capacitor. I used 10nF.
I’m not sure why, but I was not able to connect to the Gate pad side on the ceramic board, but I connected the Gate through the 1kohm resistor in parallel with the 10nF capacitor to the ceramic board, and the injection pump is working fine since that fix. The car drove 154 000 km whith this.
Attached some photos of the fix realization taken this morning I decided to drill 2 holes on the side of the ceramic board housing to take the Gate and Source out, tightened with silicone. The MOSFET is mounted on a radiator on the top of the cover of the pump, tight by silicone also and insulated of course. The Source pin is directly connected to the coil, as shown earlier in this forum
Hi! Thanks for sharing your setup. Is there any reason why you mounted it out? I'm trying to repair a VP44 and I managed to run the car again few times but after 1h idleling, the cables and the mosfet burn again.
It feels like I'm doing something wrong or something else is damaged but I'm not sure anymore....
any tips?
Sorry to Hijack this thread, but I am repairing my VP44 and need to replace a capacitor, though don't know what type to buy.
Does anyone know the capacitance of the capacitor circled in the picture?
Hi,
I hope that my answer is not coming too late…
I fixed a VP44 injection pump on my audi A6 V6 TDI engine about 11 years ago, and my repair is still working, I still own the car.
I had also the issue with the damaged MOSFET of the top of the pump, but when I decided to resolder a wire to the Gate pad, I destroyed it completely, as described early in this thread.
As I didn’t had the money, neither the tools and the knowledge to replace the electrical steering unit of the pump and recode it, I tried to find the “other end” of the electrical connection of this pad. And, if I remember correctly, it ends up at one end of this capacitor, where I soldered successfully a tiny very flexible wire.
According to my remembrance, the Gate pad is connected through a 1kohm resistor in parallel to this capacitor. I used 10nF.
I’m not sure why, but I was not able to connect to the Gate pad side on the ceramic board, but I connected the Gate through the 1kohm resistor in parallel with the 10nF capacitor to the ceramic board, and the injection pump is working fine since that fix. The car drove 154 000 km whith this.
Attached some photos of the fix realization taken this morning I decided to drill 2 holes on the side of the ceramic board housing to take the Gate and Source out, tightened with silicone. The MOSFET is mounted on a radiator on the top of the cover of the pump, tight by silicone also and insulated of course. The Source pin is directly connected to the coil, as shown earlier in this forum
Hi! Thanks for your detailed explanation! I've got a Ford Fiesta with the same pump and same issue. I replaced the mosfet and the car lasted for about 1h before burning again.
This time, the cables I used were gone and the mosfet shorted. Tried to fix it once again, and it failed again.
At this point, I'm not sure what's happening. The car seems to run after my repair but after a short while, it fails again. Somebody told me that perhaps the lower solenoid was failing but, shouldn't this just fail always or never? Feels a bit strange that only on specific cases it fails.
Questions regarding short lasting repairing of the solenoid driver MOSFET
Hi
Unfortunately, I can not remember what exact part number of MOSFET I used. I know that I have some of them left, stored somewhere at home, maybe I’ll find them on this weekend. If so, I’ll post the reference.
I had tried the widely seen IRF44, but it burned nearly directly. I remember vaguely that I used a MOSFET with something like 40V, and 130A in an TO220 housing to be able to screw it on the heatsink.
On my VP44, also the insulation of the wires to the timing solenoid were completely broken, and very likely to have a short circuit between them.
These wires were in an other insulated tube, so that the state of the wires was rather difficult to guess et first sight. I cut them nearly off, left only a few millimeters on the coil im order to sold other wires on, insulated the soldering with shrink tube. I passed these new wires back in the insulated tube, and resoldered them also back to the control unit.
Unfortunately, I can not remember what exact part number of MOSFET I used. I know that I have some of them left, stored somewhere at home, maybe I’ll find them on this weekend. If so, I’ll post the reference.
I had tried the widely seen IRF44, but it burned nearly directly. I remember vaguely that I used a MOSFET with something like 40V, and 130A in an TO220 housing to be able to screw it on the heatsink.
On my VP44, also the insulation of the wires to the timing solenoid were completely broken, and very likely to have a short circuit between them.
These wires were in an other insulated tube, so that the state of the wires was rather difficult to guess et first sight. I cut them nearly off, left only a few millimeters on the coil im order to sold other wires on, insulated the soldering with shrink tube. I passed these new wires back in the insulated tube, and resoldered them also back to the control unit.
Greetings from France
Good to know! I was about to use the IRFZ44N. If I follow the PDF attached before, there's indeed a mosfet with similar specs to the one you mentioned. Have you ever had any other problem after this fix?
Good to know! I was about to use the IRFZ44N. If I follow the PDF attached before, there's indeed a mosfet with similar specs to the one you mentioned. Have you ever had any other problem after this fix?
No, nothing regarding the MOSFET neither the electronic part. It was fixed in 2011. I’m not at home this week, and I’ll try to find the MOSFET type number this weekend
It is better to use a MOSFET rated for 100v min and greater 40 A . Select one that is logic level rated 5v threshold typically has the letter 'L' in the part number.
It is better to use a MOSFET rated for 100v min and greater 40 A . Select one that is logic level rated 5v threshold typically has the letter 'L' in the part number.
Finally I found my MOSFET stock: I used a IRF3205.
Hello, i have audi allroad with 2.5TDI which uses also VP44. My PSG box got fried by cracked insulation in the timing solenoid leads,got it fixed by friend.
I got it running, but its bit shaky at idle, it stutters a bit at 1600-1800rpm and puffs blue/greyish smoke at cold start, and is bit rough few seconds, like it doesnt light all cylinders right away.
Otherwise it starts good and pulls like it used before. Did i kill it during the bleeding process? These audis/vw's dont have lift pump, but i filled the filter and had vacuum in returnline.
Also it leaks diesel through the speed sensor to the PSG 🤦♂️ any easy ways to deal with this?
12-05-2015, 03:17 PM
