24 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Discuss the 24 Valve engine and drivetrain here. No non-drivetrain discussions please. NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

How I fixed my VP44

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-29-2015, 12:47 PM
  #1  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Junkdude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
How I fixed my VP44

My truck finally died one very hot day last summer. After 250,000 miles on the original pump. I'm hardheaded about throwing money away on what I consider a bad investment (rebuilt pump). So I tore mine apart and of course other than a cracked diaphram, mechanically the pump was in good shape considering its age. The FCU on top was bad and I found out trying to get another one was not going to be easy. All the shops say they replace all electronics but don't ever have any in their trash cans and your core is no good if the wires are cut or the FCU has been opened even though its "going in the trash" anyways. Since I know electronics and programing I decided to build one. After a couple tries and burnt up fuel solenoids my truck would start and run most of the time but was unstable. I needed it going to tow a trailer so I put the scratch built controller on hold and decided to take a second look at the FCU now that I know what all it does. The main FET for the fuel solenoid was fried and one of the leads got hot enough to pop off the FET. I saw some Youtube videos about fixing it but didn't like the mounting method and the thermal transfer characteristics. So I mounted my new FET driver and clamp circuit on a separate board with a heatsink. It gets pretty warm so I changed to a larger heatsink. It has been running great for three months now.
If you are expirenced with building electronic circuits and your pump is bad and you have nothing to loose execpt your core here are some pictures.
IMPORTANT this will not fix a dead pedal thats a communication problem nor will it fix a p0216. The FCU senses the solenoid current and drive waveforms so the wires need to be large enough and short or else the pump will trigger codes like p0951, p0952 and starting with low battery voltage on cold days could be difficult. Pics and schematic PDF Attached.
Attached Thumbnails How I fixed my VP44-fcu.jpg   How I fixed my VP44-fet-bottom.jpg   How I fixed my VP44-fet-top.jpg   How I fixed my VP44-mouted.jpg   How I fixed my VP44-pump-wires.jpg  

Attached Files
File Type: pdf
DIY VP44 REPAIR.pdf (15.6 KB, 3294 views)
The following users liked this post:
Marine (09-05-2023)
Old 11-29-2015, 01:01 PM
  #2  
Registered User
 
SIXSLUG's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pacific NW, B'ham, Kalispell MT
Posts: 5,550
Received 148 Likes on 127 Posts
I've always wondered why it has taken so long for an electronics guy to try something like this.....
Old 11-29-2015, 02:28 PM
  #3  
Registered User
 
KATOOM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: The "real" Northern CA
Posts: 4,179
Received 141 Likes on 107 Posts
You sir Junkdude get the brownie award.....

The only problem I understand about messing with the PSG and/or replacing it by itself is that the PSG and VP timing must be synced which supposedly requires the Bosch bench. So much so is this that the shaft key is specific to the calibrations of that VP its found on.

But nonetheless, I completely commend someone with the guts and knowledge to even attempt this.

Let me just throw another idea some people have tried too. Since the PSG running hot is a big concern, leading to the dreaded heat cycles, trying to relocate the PSG off and away of the VP was an idea. But that led to outside interference through the ribbon. Too bad that cant be solved.....

Also, I understand the PSG transducer and/or the solder connections to the transducer burn up. I'm no electrical engineer so.....
Old 11-30-2015, 04:12 PM
  #4  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Junkdude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
I think the shaft key is used to zero out manufacturing and machining variations.

I also think putting a used PSG on a pump will work but may have a slight change in
things like cylinder balance and timing. It will probably run ok may have a change in fuel mileage.
I have heard that a new PSG is not programmed. The program has to be downloaded
from Bosch and then run on the bench.

There is a lot of bad information and myths about these pumps. I get the feeling that rebuilders are even kept in the dark about the details of the test bench.
Old 11-30-2015, 09:49 PM
  #5  
Administrator
 
jrs_dodge_diesel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: League City, TX
Posts: 4,569
Received 40 Likes on 34 Posts
That's impressive. This electronics technician tips his hat to ya!

When you had yours open, did you see any evidence of tin whiskers? It's often told that they used lead free solder, but I'm not sure when most of the industry changed over.
Old 11-30-2015, 10:15 PM
  #6  
Registered User
 
KATOOM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: The "real" Northern CA
Posts: 4,179
Received 141 Likes on 107 Posts
I too understood that, as you stated, the new PSG's aren't programmed. Therefore if you bought a separate PSG and just installed it without the Bosch bench then the PSG will not be calibrated to the timing and fueling parameters for that application. Obviously the engine will still run but that must mean that there are some rudimentary functions. Matter of fact, we all know a VP will still allow the engine run by hot wiring pin 7. But since you remove all other variable inputs by doing so, the engine will only idle.

That said, I dont know if the shaft key zeros the manufacturing and machining variations as much as it zeros the timing which the PSG is calibrated too. This potentially being the reason why if the key accidentally slips its position and gets partially smashed while torquing down the timing gear nut then the inaccurate timing of the shaft will result in a slight miss at idle, slight loss in power, and drop in fuel mileage. That would tell me its not so much the specialty of the key per say but rather "that" particular key used which could vary minor amounts sitting next to the rest of the keys in the bin.
Old 12-02-2015, 09:43 PM
  #7  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Junkdude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
There is actually very little solder used in the PSG. It is mostly un packaged intergrated circuit dies mounted to a ceramic board and a couple of higher power devices glued to the aluminum base. The ICs are connected by ball welding bond wires and the other componets are connected with aluminum bond wires that are wedge welded. Read more here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wire_bonding

I think the key works like setting timing on a P7100 its just an offset between TDC and pump posistion. The VP has a cam ring that moves about the pump shaft like the breaker point base plate in a distribitor connected to a vacum advance. The timing piston moves the ring based on vane pump presure which increases with speed. Like the VE pumps. The posiston sensor is mounted to the cam ring and senses teeth on a wheel mounted on the pump shaft. There are missing teeth, the missing teeth are NOT TDC of a cylinder. Half way between (9 of 18 teeth for a six cylinder) is where the pump plungers start to inject. The ECM provides a ref. pulse 6 times per revolution to the VP on connector pin 8. The ECM derives the ref signal from the CMP or CKP (depends on year) in the engine. The PSG measures the time difference of the signal edges from the ref. pulse and posistion sensor to determine the cam ring posistion reletive to the pump shaft. The key is used set the static offset between pump shaft and crankshaft. The CAN bus from the ECM tells the PSG the desired timing advance. The PSG varies the duty cycle of the Timing Control Valve which leaks some of the preasure away from the timing piston. The PSG will try to make its measured timing offset equal to the commanded value from the ECM if it can't then it throws P0216. The vane pump regulator, piston springs and orifices are set up so that a malfunction or error in the timing commands or control of the TCV will keep the timing in a kind of safe zone.
In other words if you ask for 30 deg of advace at idle its not possible because there wont be enough fuel presure from the vane pump to move the piston that far.
Old 12-02-2015, 09:54 PM
  #8  
Registered User
 
KATOOM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: The "real" Northern CA
Posts: 4,179
Received 141 Likes on 107 Posts
Very interesting and explains a few unknowns I dont think I've heard anyone ever touch on. But question..... With what you said about the solder, why are some of the European PSG suppliers referencing the transducer wiring and related solder as one of the main problems? Even actually showing pictures of burnt connections. I "believe" that I even remember seeing someone try to replace the transducer alone but I couldn't tell you what the results were.
Old 12-02-2015, 10:39 PM
  #9  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Junkdude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
The angle / posistion / transducer seems to have different names. It is small and has a thin ribbon cable. It has to be very flexible. Looks like a printer head cable. It tears if the PSG is yanked away from the pump without removing the screws in the sensor body.I found this out the hard way. It does not come with a new PSG. The old cable
which is thin mylar or plastic has to be soldered by hand to the new PSG. Using the wrong soldering iron or tools or junk solder and inexperence will yield poor results. It is possible to replace the PSG with the pump still on the truck. The wires on the back have to be cut though.

I do agree though that lead free solder and no clean flux are difficult to use for manual soldering. It does work for controlled process systems with some tinkering.

Better stock up on some good old 60/40 rosin core 0.32" while its still available.
Old 12-03-2015, 08:49 AM
  #10  
Registered User
 
KATOOM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: The "real" Northern CA
Posts: 4,179
Received 141 Likes on 107 Posts
What is the yellow wire going to in your first picture of the open PSG?
Old 12-04-2015, 09:16 PM
  #11  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Junkdude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
I should have taken more pictures before the epoxy went on. Here is a close up of a broken PSG I used for practice to see if it would take solder.
The yellow wire goes where the solder blob is.
Attached Thumbnails How I fixed my VP44-psg-close.jpg  
Old 12-04-2015, 09:37 PM
  #12  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Junkdude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
That said, I dont know if the shaft key zeros the manufacturing and machining variations as much as it zeros the timing which the PSG is calibrated too. This potentially being the reason why if the key accidentally slips its position and gets partially smashed while torquing down the timing gear nut then the inaccurate timing of the shaft will result in a slight miss at idle, slight loss in power, and drop in fuel mileage. That would tell me its not so much the specialty of the key per say but rather "that" particular key used which could vary minor amounts sitting next to the rest of the keys in the bin.
Interresting KATOOM, I thought about that some more. The Key number is programmed into the PSG. So maybe the software in the PSG has a way of telling if the key has been tampered with. Suppose people started modding or selling special keys to advance the timing a little to gain a performance
edge.

I wonder if the timimg reference pulses from ECM to PSG could be "fooled"
to produce a timing change and just how much before a code gets thrown
Old 12-05-2015, 12:29 AM
  #13  
Registered User
 
KATOOM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: The "real" Northern CA
Posts: 4,179
Received 141 Likes on 107 Posts
I thoroughly enjoy threads like these.
Old 12-05-2015, 08:46 AM
  #14  
Administrator
 
jrs_dodge_diesel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: League City, TX
Posts: 4,569
Received 40 Likes on 34 Posts
I could never wrap my mind around why the shaft key plays such a big role in these pumps.

I mean, these almost look like a standard Woodruff key. These keys are used in all sorts of things, lawnmowers, outboard motors (flywheel locator), machine tools. In my outboards (Evinrude/Johnson) the key locates the flywheel onto a specific spot on the crankshaft. The flywheel contains the magnets which charge the ignition coils to fire the plugs. I can change the key and it will not impact the ignition timing.

The RPMs are much different between the outboards and the VP44. My outboards turn 5500-6000 RPM at WOT. The VP44 only turns ~1600 RPM at WOT (½ crankshaft speed). What is different between VP44 shaft keys? Thickness? Height?

I learn much from these threads too. Years ago I had run across a white paper on the VP44 which detailed some of its operation, but I don't know where I saw it, and I didn't save it either.
Old 12-05-2015, 02:05 PM
  #15  
Registered User
 
nothingbutdarts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 398
Received 24 Likes on 22 Posts
I learn a bit aso but, some of this information in this thread is a bit over my head!
Great thread though!!!


Quick Reply: How I fixed my VP44



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:03 PM.