Grid Heaters no workin
01-21-2005, 03:10 PM
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
Temp droped below -20 c last night, pluged the truck in for 2 hours, would not start or even pretend to..
Took the wifes car to pick up parts from my brothers heated garage, wich has been full of customers cars since i had the jobber send the parts out on monday. And proceeded with the surgery in my driveway, BRRRRR...
I Got the old solenoids off without any trouble, its a little tight, but not bad.
The new parts are from a Ferd pickup. The parts came from KEM manufacturing company inc.
They have a website kemparts.com if you look up part number SW95A, it will show a pic of the product.
I was able to remove the rubber grommets from the original solenoid mount, and spread the holes on the new ones to insert the rubbers, and put the two new ones on using the three holes and screws from the original. Almost a direct bolt in.
The cables needed a little persuazion to line up to the new post position, but they will stretch to reach.
On these solenoids, one of the two little posts is smaller than the other. One is 10-32 the other is 8-32. At first I put the wrong wire to the wrong terminal.
Just squish the black and purple wire connectors with some pliers a bit so they go on the smaller terminal tightly.
So:--- Black and purple wire goes to 8-32 terminal wich is copper coloured
--- The other wires are coloured yellow and one is red, they goto the silver coloured 10-32 terminal and push on tightly without modification.
--- The wire from the heater element (large black) goes onto one of the 5/16 posts, and the other post recieves the wire directly from the positive battery post. I dont think it matters wich wire goes to wich side of the solenoid..
The whole think took about an hour, once I got the parts off, i brought them inside to attach the rubber grommets and warm my pinkies....
Put it all back together and checked voltage to the heater grids with the key and wait to start lamp on. One measured 10 volts, the other only .5 volts. I am assuming the 10 volts is due to the draw on the batteries, they measured 12.5 volts before key on.
When the wait to start light went off, so did voltage to the heater grids. So I think possibly one of the grids may be burnt out, or one of the coils is not working properly??????
Just as a note: I tested resistance between the small posts on the original solenoids, they acted like they were shorted together, where as the new solenoids showed no current passing between them.
If anyone has some new ones they can test this on, it may indicate weather or not the solenoid is fried?????
But even with only one heater recieving full voltage the truck started and run smooth and without smoke.
And when it warms a little, or i get some space in my brothers garage, i will further investigate why one heater is only showing a half volt?????
Took the wifes car to pick up parts from my brothers heated garage, wich has been full of customers cars since i had the jobber send the parts out on monday. And proceeded with the surgery in my driveway, BRRRRR...
I Got the old solenoids off without any trouble, its a little tight, but not bad.
The new parts are from a Ferd pickup. The parts came from KEM manufacturing company inc.
They have a website kemparts.com if you look up part number SW95A, it will show a pic of the product.
I was able to remove the rubber grommets from the original solenoid mount, and spread the holes on the new ones to insert the rubbers, and put the two new ones on using the three holes and screws from the original. Almost a direct bolt in.
The cables needed a little persuazion to line up to the new post position, but they will stretch to reach.
On these solenoids, one of the two little posts is smaller than the other. One is 10-32 the other is 8-32. At first I put the wrong wire to the wrong terminal.
Just squish the black and purple wire connectors with some pliers a bit so they go on the smaller terminal tightly.
So:--- Black and purple wire goes to 8-32 terminal wich is copper coloured
--- The other wires are coloured yellow and one is red, they goto the silver coloured 10-32 terminal and push on tightly without modification.
--- The wire from the heater element (large black) goes onto one of the 5/16 posts, and the other post recieves the wire directly from the positive battery post. I dont think it matters wich wire goes to wich side of the solenoid..
The whole think took about an hour, once I got the parts off, i brought them inside to attach the rubber grommets and warm my pinkies....
Put it all back together and checked voltage to the heater grids with the key and wait to start lamp on. One measured 10 volts, the other only .5 volts. I am assuming the 10 volts is due to the draw on the batteries, they measured 12.5 volts before key on.
When the wait to start light went off, so did voltage to the heater grids. So I think possibly one of the grids may be burnt out, or one of the coils is not working properly??????
Just as a note: I tested resistance between the small posts on the original solenoids, they acted like they were shorted together, where as the new solenoids showed no current passing between them.
If anyone has some new ones they can test this on, it may indicate weather or not the solenoid is fried?????
But even with only one heater recieving full voltage the truck started and run smooth and without smoke.
And when it warms a little, or i get some space in my brothers garage, i will further investigate why one heater is only showing a half volt?????
01-23-2005, 11:09 PM
#18
Registered User
It should be a simple matter to check the grids. The power studs are right on top of the manifold. Just unhook them and check for continuity. Check them with 12 v and they should get hot.
12-13-2006, 11:58 AM
#19
Registered User
Thread Starter
hate to kick a dead horse, but ?????
Well, almost 2 full years, and once again, grid heater problems.
Now that the temps have dropped i noticed some hard starting in the am. I thought I would have a look here to see if anyone has found more reliable, longer lasting parts.
I have not metered them yet, but see no voltage drop, and cant here the Click of the relay shutting off anymore, so I am fairly sure they have failed.
I will post the fix when I get time to do it, again,,,,,
If anyone has found a better part please let me know...
Thanks.
Now that the temps have dropped i noticed some hard starting in the am. I thought I would have a look here to see if anyone has found more reliable, longer lasting parts.
I have not metered them yet, but see no voltage drop, and cant here the Click of the relay shutting off anymore, so I am fairly sure they have failed.
I will post the fix when I get time to do it, again,,,,,
If anyone has found a better part please let me know...
Thanks.
The following users liked this post:
travisneville (11-21-2018)
12-13-2006, 12:59 PM
#20
Registered User
Temp droped below -20 c last night, pluged the truck in for 2 hours, would not start or even pretend to..
Took the wifes car to pick up parts from my brothers heated garage, wich has been full of customers cars since i had the jobber send the parts out on monday. And proceeded with the surgery in my driveway, BRRRRR...
I Got the old solenoids off without any trouble, its a little tight, but not bad.
The new parts are from a Ferd pickup. The parts came from KEM manufacturing company inc.
They have a website kemparts.com if you look up part number SW95A, it will show a pic of the product.
I was able to remove the rubber grommets from the original solenoid mount, and spread the holes on the new ones to insert the rubbers, and put the two new ones on using the three holes and screws from the original. Almost a direct bolt in.
The cables needed a little persuazion to line up to the new post position, but they will stretch to reach.
On these solenoids, one of the two little posts is smaller than the other. One is 10-32 the other is 8-32. At first I put the wrong wire to the wrong terminal.
Just squish the black and purple wire connectors with some pliers a bit so they go on the smaller terminal tightly.
So:--- Black and purple wire goes to 8-32 terminal wich is copper coloured
--- The other wires are coloured yellow and one is red, they goto the silver coloured 10-32 terminal and push on tightly without modification.
--- The wire from the heater element (large black) goes onto one of the 5/16 posts, and the other post recieves the wire directly from the positive battery post. I dont think it matters wich wire goes to wich side of the solenoid..
The whole think took about an hour, once I got the parts off, i brought them inside to attach the rubber grommets and warm my pinkies....
Put it all back together and checked voltage to the heater grids with the key and wait to start lamp on. One measured 10 volts, the other only .5 volts. I am assuming the 10 volts is due to the draw on the batteries, they measured 12.5 volts before key on.
When the wait to start light went off, so did voltage to the heater grids. So I think possibly one of the grids may be burnt out, or one of the coils is not working properly??????
Just as a note: I tested resistance between the small posts on the original solenoids, they acted like they were shorted together, where as the new solenoids showed no current passing between them.
If anyone has some new ones they can test this on, it may indicate weather or not the solenoid is fried?????
But even with only one heater recieving full voltage the truck started and run smooth and without smoke.
And when it warms a little, or i get some space in my brothers garage, i will further investigate why one heater is only showing a half volt?????
Took the wifes car to pick up parts from my brothers heated garage, wich has been full of customers cars since i had the jobber send the parts out on monday. And proceeded with the surgery in my driveway, BRRRRR...
I Got the old solenoids off without any trouble, its a little tight, but not bad.
The new parts are from a Ferd pickup. The parts came from KEM manufacturing company inc.
They have a website kemparts.com if you look up part number SW95A, it will show a pic of the product.
I was able to remove the rubber grommets from the original solenoid mount, and spread the holes on the new ones to insert the rubbers, and put the two new ones on using the three holes and screws from the original. Almost a direct bolt in.
The cables needed a little persuazion to line up to the new post position, but they will stretch to reach.
On these solenoids, one of the two little posts is smaller than the other. One is 10-32 the other is 8-32. At first I put the wrong wire to the wrong terminal.
Just squish the black and purple wire connectors with some pliers a bit so they go on the smaller terminal tightly.
So:--- Black and purple wire goes to 8-32 terminal wich is copper coloured
--- The other wires are coloured yellow and one is red, they goto the silver coloured 10-32 terminal and push on tightly without modification.
--- The wire from the heater element (large black) goes onto one of the 5/16 posts, and the other post recieves the wire directly from the positive battery post. I dont think it matters wich wire goes to wich side of the solenoid..
The whole think took about an hour, once I got the parts off, i brought them inside to attach the rubber grommets and warm my pinkies....
Put it all back together and checked voltage to the heater grids with the key and wait to start lamp on. One measured 10 volts, the other only .5 volts. I am assuming the 10 volts is due to the draw on the batteries, they measured 12.5 volts before key on.
When the wait to start light went off, so did voltage to the heater grids. So I think possibly one of the grids may be burnt out, or one of the coils is not working properly??????
Just as a note: I tested resistance between the small posts on the original solenoids, they acted like they were shorted together, where as the new solenoids showed no current passing between them.
If anyone has some new ones they can test this on, it may indicate weather or not the solenoid is fried?????
But even with only one heater recieving full voltage the truck started and run smooth and without smoke.
And when it warms a little, or i get some space in my brothers garage, i will further investigate why one heater is only showing a half volt?????
BUSINESS TOOLS PRODUCT TRAINING HISTORY SEARCH
Use the form below to search for documents in this web containing specific words or combinations of words. The text search engine will display a weighted list of matching documents, with better matches shown first. Each list item is a link to a matching document; if the document has a title it will be shown, otherwise only the document's file name is displayed.
(enter asterisk (*) after search phrase for a wild card search)
Search for:
Your search returned no matching documents.
Please try another search.
HOME CONTACT US NEWS PURCHASE PARTS DISTRIBUTOR LOCATOR LOGOUT
©1999-2006 KEMPARTS LLC.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Vaughn MacKenzie
3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007
32
11-15-2007 04:41 PM
Hoss
3rd Generation Ram - Non Drivetrain - All Years
16
10-20-2003 09:13 AM