Personally I would call transgo (or the supplier of the shift kit) and try to get some help over the phone. It's easy to overlook something small when assembling the valve body.

I would also check over all the wiring to and inside the transmission, I think you loose 1st and o/d (Maybe 2nd too?) when you loose a gov. signal. Check any relays, connector on trans. etc. Good luck.

 

I am going to give Trans-Go a call today, I have been using there kits for many years. The one thing I have had problems with is their directions, they are very confusing. It will say SKIP THIS STEP IF YOU HAVE..............
So you skip that step only to find out that they meant only to skip the printed part and not the diagram. Or vice versa. I have identified three things I missed but I don't think any of them will cause the issue I am having. I did a line pressure test and it is very erratic. I know it has to come out and I am hoping they can tell me "hey' no problem, do this" but I am thinking I will need a replacement. Quick! Who has good valve bodies at decent prices?

Rick

 

OK, You guys sort of dropped me like a hot potato on this one! I am in a bind here since I do not make enough to just go out and buy a new transmission and I need the truck. Since the last post I have had the valve body out 6 times. I have gotten it to the point where it will drive and shift but the 23 shift is brutal! The front band is not releasing soon enough. I have backed out the adjustment as far as 5 turns which should give me a flare, nothing. I have pulled the servo and there is nothing wrong that I can find. The modifications are a TFOD shift kit and new stock governor solenoid and sensor. This transmission shifted fine before the shift kit, I only did this for dependability. Pretty much screwed the pooch there but now I need to find out what is the problem. I have a new Sonnax servo piston to put in but that is not going to solve the issue since there was nothing wrong with the original. I need some pointers here.

Rick

 

rickF, hate to read that you having the problems you are experiening, but wanted to reply to the guys that helped me or gave advice, mine is working like new, the worst part was having fluid in my ears, but after that it was pretty easy, thanks for the help guys

 

Rick you're right about the TFOD instructions, not very well laid out. Did you ever take pressure readings off the test ports? If you get your hands on a manual (I got one for $15 that covers 46/47RE) it might help narrow your problem down. I know it's like chasing your own tail sometimes, but I'd do one of two things, either diagnose the problem yourself, or throw more money at it with a new valvebody. Could be something very small, sticky new switch valve, stuck ball in the VB, bolts not torqued evenly, mis-stamped seperator plate, etc. But I would start with something you don't have to pull the pan for, pressure readings.

Personally I had good luck with "whatever it takes transmission", I think they're website is wittrans.com or something, but I bought some parts from them (including a valvebody) and the customer service afterwards was pretty good.

Good luck.

 

Well, what I came up with was worn third clutch seals. Between the higher line pressure and the worn seals detected from an air test I can determine that the band is not able to release fast enough. Trans-Go has a fix for that which is to use both their servo spring AND the stock spring together to give a faster release on the band. I had already purchased a Sonnax servo piston so I went with that and the stock spring. It is working for now. I actually have a bit of flare at 2-3 shift now so I am going to run the adjustment in 1/2 turn and try to find that sweet spot between flare and bind. The transmission is going to have to come out before winter and be rebuilt. I guess I was a little aggravated because I always see people on here talking up so and so's valve bodies or transmissions and yet when I need a name nobody speaks up.

Rick