Gearing down?
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From: NC
Gearing down?
Wondering the best way to get my gearing back down some. Just got a 9K pound travel trailer & towing is a pain. With overdrive off in turning 2400 at 65 with OD on barely turning 1500 so egt arent really managable. Thinking of dropping to 285 tires but wondering if this is enuff. Dont wanna go smaller on the tires due to it looking stupid for a 4wd with tiny tires. Then i thought maybe go with bigger tires to drop prms with od off but that just dont seem like the answer. If i do a gearing change should i go to 373 or 410's?
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From: South
sodbuster,
My firm opinion on this is if you stay with stock tires and tow less than 10,000 pounds then 3.55 OK. If you go with bigger tires or tow heavier or more often then go with the 4.10 or 3.73 (3.73 not offered when I bought mine). I had a hard time finding the truck I wanted with a manual and 4.10 gears. 90% of trucks on the lot had 3.55's. Then again the majority of truck buyers then had no idea what a gear ratio was anyway.
I do not tow over 10,000 anymore hardly ever. I used to tow real heavy with 4.10 gears and stock tire size. Now I run 35's and it is just about right with the 4.10's. I run 2200-2500 at highway speeds (in O.D.) depending on what the speed limit is etc. Mileage is 18-20 empty 11-14 with 10K # trailer depending on how fast I run.
Gearing change is pretty expensive to do. Unless you tow a lot I would suggest you just run with OD off when towing. Running 70 MPH at 2500 is not going to hurt your engine or anything.
Well that is my opinion... hope it is helpfull... in the end do what you are comfortable with.
My firm opinion on this is if you stay with stock tires and tow less than 10,000 pounds then 3.55 OK. If you go with bigger tires or tow heavier or more often then go with the 4.10 or 3.73 (3.73 not offered when I bought mine). I had a hard time finding the truck I wanted with a manual and 4.10 gears. 90% of trucks on the lot had 3.55's. Then again the majority of truck buyers then had no idea what a gear ratio was anyway.
I do not tow over 10,000 anymore hardly ever. I used to tow real heavy with 4.10 gears and stock tire size. Now I run 35's and it is just about right with the 4.10's. I run 2200-2500 at highway speeds (in O.D.) depending on what the speed limit is etc. Mileage is 18-20 empty 11-14 with 10K # trailer depending on how fast I run.
Gearing change is pretty expensive to do. Unless you tow a lot I would suggest you just run with OD off when towing. Running 70 MPH at 2500 is not going to hurt your engine or anything.
Well that is my opinion... hope it is helpfull... in the end do what you are comfortable with.
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From: North Carolina or Kentucky. Take your pick
Just slow down a little. Trailer has tremedose wind resistance at speed, so all your power is used cutting through air and no power left for hills, passing, ect. A different approach perhaps.
The bigger tires don't help breaking either, so make sure trailer has brakes.
The bigger tires don't help breaking either, so make sure trailer has brakes.
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From: NC
I know stock size tires is the quick & easy answer but sure looks goofy with the leveling kit. I tow close to 15k with my ASV with the fecon head really often but not all on the big road. I know turning 2500 wont hurt the truck just soo annoying after 2hrs nonstop, guess I'm getting old & the exhaust noice @ over 2k continously gets old quick, besides not being able to talk to the kids or wife without yelling. Debating on just trading trucks now or the gear change or a gear vendors aux trans. The price of gear change is nothin close to what I've allready spent on mods.
sodbuster,
My firm opinion on this is if you stay with stock tires and tow less than 10,000 pounds then 3.55 OK. If you go with bigger tires or tow heavier or more often then go with the 4.10 or 3.73 (3.73 not offered when I bought mine). I had a hard time finding the truck I wanted with a manual and 4.10 gears. 90% of trucks on the lot had 3.55's. Then again the majority of truck buyers then had no idea what a gear ratio was anyway.
I do not tow over 10,000 anymore hardly ever. I used to tow real heavy with 4.10 gears and stock tire size. Now I run 35's and it is just about right with the 4.10's. I run 2200-2500 at highway speeds (in O.D.) depending on what the speed limit is etc. Mileage is 18-20 empty 11-14 with 10K # trailer depending on how fast I run.
Gearing change is pretty expensive to do. Unless you tow a lot I would suggest you just run with OD off when towing. Running 70 MPH at 2500 is not going to hurt your engine or anything.
Well that is my opinion... hope it is helpfull... in the end do what you are comfortable with.
My firm opinion on this is if you stay with stock tires and tow less than 10,000 pounds then 3.55 OK. If you go with bigger tires or tow heavier or more often then go with the 4.10 or 3.73 (3.73 not offered when I bought mine). I had a hard time finding the truck I wanted with a manual and 4.10 gears. 90% of trucks on the lot had 3.55's. Then again the majority of truck buyers then had no idea what a gear ratio was anyway.
I do not tow over 10,000 anymore hardly ever. I used to tow real heavy with 4.10 gears and stock tire size. Now I run 35's and it is just about right with the 4.10's. I run 2200-2500 at highway speeds (in O.D.) depending on what the speed limit is etc. Mileage is 18-20 empty 11-14 with 10K # trailer depending on how fast I run.
Gearing change is pretty expensive to do. Unless you tow a lot I would suggest you just run with OD off when towing. Running 70 MPH at 2500 is not going to hurt your engine or anything.
Well that is my opinion... hope it is helpfull... in the end do what you are comfortable with.
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From: NC
Cant slow down. Like the hammer lane too much. Never hurting for power in fact on most hills have to get out of the fuel once the egt hit 1300. Trailer got brakes on both axles & got a prodigy p3 controller so braking is an ease.
Just slow down a little. Trailer has tremedose wind resistance at speed, so all your power is used cutting through air and no power left for hills, passing, ect. A different approach perhaps.
The bigger tires don't help breaking either, so make sure trailer has brakes.
The bigger tires don't help breaking either, so make sure trailer has brakes.
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From: NC
Cant slow down. Like the hammer lane too much. Never hurting for power in fact on most hills have to get out of the fuel once the egt hit 1300. Trailer got brakes on both axles & got a prodigy p3 controller so braking is an ease.
Just slow down a little. Trailer has tremedose wind resistance at speed, so all your power is used cutting through air and no power left for hills, passing, ect. A different approach perhaps.
The bigger tires don't help breaking either, so make sure trailer has brakes.
The bigger tires don't help breaking either, so make sure trailer has brakes.
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 104
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From: Nevada City, CA
Gear change on a 4WD is very expensive. Going up, numerically means you must also change the carrier- added expense. 3.73's are simply too close to your 3.54's to make much difference. 4.10's would be my suggestion, only because my choice of ratio in your position would be 3.92:1. Not available. 4.10:1 happens to be the 'other' ratio of your era truck.
I have friends who have gone the other way with your swap, feeling that the 4.10's were too 'short' on an empty truck at speed, and opted for the 'taller' 3.54's. And, they are very happy about it.
Here's the twist: Find someone out there that hates their 4.10's and wants 3.54's. Find this person and offer to swap both axle assemblies, wholesale, front and rear. It's a grunt job (I've done it, those axles are heavy and unwieldy), not very complicated, but could be a very good option for you. They're already set up. Everything bolts up.
You would eliminate the buying and setting up of new RG&P sets, bearings, shims, seals, etc.
You'll need a 5' high lift jack, two floor jacks, two tall H.D. jack stands, air tools, and preferably a friend to help you. Since it's rear springs-over-axle, leave those wheels on, disconnect everything and roll that pig out of there.
regards, as always, jefe
I have friends who have gone the other way with your swap, feeling that the 4.10's were too 'short' on an empty truck at speed, and opted for the 'taller' 3.54's. And, they are very happy about it.
Here's the twist: Find someone out there that hates their 4.10's and wants 3.54's. Find this person and offer to swap both axle assemblies, wholesale, front and rear. It's a grunt job (I've done it, those axles are heavy and unwieldy), not very complicated, but could be a very good option for you. They're already set up. Everything bolts up.
You would eliminate the buying and setting up of new RG&P sets, bearings, shims, seals, etc.
You'll need a 5' high lift jack, two floor jacks, two tall H.D. jack stands, air tools, and preferably a friend to help you. Since it's rear springs-over-axle, leave those wheels on, disconnect everything and roll that pig out of there.
regards, as always, jefe
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: North Carolina
One issue you have to ponder is the amount of use you have with the truck NOT towing. If you haul your trailer once or twice, the swap to 4:10 and the bad fuel mileage that will bring, might not be what you desire. Expect to loose around 4mpg/5mpg with a 4:10
3:73 would be my choice, that's what the 3rd gen have and it's a great compromise. I have 4:10 and will replace it soon, mileage really sucks.
If you want to swap axles, get them from somebody with same rear brakes (disks) like yours, so you won't have to remove brake lines, just disconnect the calipers and leave them hanging with the truck, it will save the hassle of bleeding.
3:73 would be my choice, that's what the 3rd gen have and it's a great compromise. I have 4:10 and will replace it soon, mileage really sucks.
If you want to swap axles, get them from somebody with same rear brakes (disks) like yours, so you won't have to remove brake lines, just disconnect the calipers and leave them hanging with the truck, it will save the hassle of bleeding.
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 342
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From: NC
I admit gear changes are costly but realitively speaking not expensive when you've allready dropped 6 grand on a transmission. Was hoping to find someone that did want to switch out front & back axles but coming up short on that search. Far as doing the swap would not be a big deal got a nice warm shop full of tools for actions such as those.
Gear change on a 4WD is very expensive. Going up, numerically means you must also change the carrier- added expense. 3.73's are simply too close to your 3.54's to make much difference. 4.10's would be my suggestion, only because my choice of ratio in your position would be 3.92:1. Not available. 4.10:1 happens to be the 'other' ratio of your era truck.
I have friends who have gone the other way with your swap, feeling that the 4.10's were too 'short' on an empty truck at speed, and opted for the 'taller' 3.54's. And, they are very happy about it.
Here's the twist: Find someone out there that hates their 4.10's and wants 3.54's. Find this person and offer to swap both axle assemblies, wholesale, front and rear. It's a grunt job (I've done it, those axles are heavy and unwieldy), not very complicated, but could be a very good option for you. They're already set up. Everything bolts up.
You would eliminate the buying and setting up of new RG&P sets, bearings, shims, seals, etc.
You'll need a 5' high lift jack, two floor jacks, two tall H.D. jack stands, air tools, and preferably a friend to help you. Since it's rear springs-over-axle, leave those wheels on, disconnect everything and roll that pig out of there.
regards, as always, jefe
I have friends who have gone the other way with your swap, feeling that the 4.10's were too 'short' on an empty truck at speed, and opted for the 'taller' 3.54's. And, they are very happy about it.
Here's the twist: Find someone out there that hates their 4.10's and wants 3.54's. Find this person and offer to swap both axle assemblies, wholesale, front and rear. It's a grunt job (I've done it, those axles are heavy and unwieldy), not very complicated, but could be a very good option for you. They're already set up. Everything bolts up.
You would eliminate the buying and setting up of new RG&P sets, bearings, shims, seals, etc.
You'll need a 5' high lift jack, two floor jacks, two tall H.D. jack stands, air tools, and preferably a friend to help you. Since it's rear springs-over-axle, leave those wheels on, disconnect everything and roll that pig out of there.
regards, as always, jefe
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: NC
Haave thought bout how much the truck is used for towing versus not. Have several other vehicles i drive anyhow just to keep miles off the truck. lately only seem to use it to tow either the ASV or the camper. In fact this year i doubt i've 3k miles on the truck all year. Been looking into one of those gear vendor aux transmissions also
One issue you have to ponder is the amount of use you have with the truck NOT towing. If you haul your trailer once or twice, the swap to 4:10 and the bad fuel mileage that will bring, might not be what you desire. Expect to loose around 4mpg/5mpg with a 4:10
3:73 would be my choice, that's what the 3rd gen have and it's a great compromise. I have 4:10 and will replace it soon, mileage really sucks.
If you want to swap axles, get them from somebody with same rear brakes (disks) like yours, so you won't have to remove brake lines, just disconnect the calipers and leave them hanging with the truck, it will save the hassle of bleeding.
3:73 would be my choice, that's what the 3rd gen have and it's a great compromise. I have 4:10 and will replace it soon, mileage really sucks.
If you want to swap axles, get them from somebody with same rear brakes (disks) like yours, so you won't have to remove brake lines, just disconnect the calipers and leave them hanging with the truck, it will save the hassle of bleeding.
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,376
Likes: 1
From: North Carolina
Gear swap will be cheaper even if you buy new. OEM rear kit is $ 850 if you have a 3500 and $ 650 for a 2500, front $ 300
I would assume $ 2000 will do the job with labor
Gear vendor will have to shorten driveshaft too.
I would assume $ 2000 will do the job with labor
Gear vendor will have to shorten driveshaft too.
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Joined: May 2005
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From: L.A. (Lower Arkansas)
My truck has 265's on it and I'm right in the sweet spot at 70mph (1800 rpms). I normally pull @ 65-68mph and I never had any reason to watch my egts unless I have the cruise on. I can feather the throttle and keep my speed where I want it and keep EGT's in check.
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 104
Likes: 1
From: Nevada City, CA
Sod,
With more information you have supplied about how little you use the truck, the 32" tall, wide, heavy tires on 10" rims, heavy trailer, etc,
I would opt to change nothing and drive more in 1:1. Run what 'cha brung. Your trans will probably last longer running at higher rpms than it would lugging it in O.D.
I have 3.54's, haul a Lance Camper and armor plated Jeep on trailer that grosses about 16,500 lbs. rolling down the road. With big super single, 33" tires on 12" wide rims, the gears are tall, too tall to stay in 6th (manual) all the time, but I have learned to 'play' with the gears and drop down to 5th below 57 mph. I really see no change of mpg's doing that, and since I'm not bombed or wired, see no pyro woes.
But, I use my Dodge for many other reasons and find the 3.54's/NV5600 a dream. There is virtually no hill or situation that I can't find an appropriate gearing for. With just the camper on, x-ing out the jeep on trailer (that drops 6500 lbs of weight off) I use 5th gear on the road even less, and prefer 6th.
regards, as always, jefe
With more information you have supplied about how little you use the truck, the 32" tall, wide, heavy tires on 10" rims, heavy trailer, etc,
I would opt to change nothing and drive more in 1:1. Run what 'cha brung. Your trans will probably last longer running at higher rpms than it would lugging it in O.D.
I have 3.54's, haul a Lance Camper and armor plated Jeep on trailer that grosses about 16,500 lbs. rolling down the road. With big super single, 33" tires on 12" wide rims, the gears are tall, too tall to stay in 6th (manual) all the time, but I have learned to 'play' with the gears and drop down to 5th below 57 mph. I really see no change of mpg's doing that, and since I'm not bombed or wired, see no pyro woes.
But, I use my Dodge for many other reasons and find the 3.54's/NV5600 a dream. There is virtually no hill or situation that I can't find an appropriate gearing for. With just the camper on, x-ing out the jeep on trailer (that drops 6500 lbs of weight off) I use 5th gear on the road even less, and prefer 6th.
regards, as always, jefe
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