I parked my truck on a 35 degree driveway nose up for 3-4 days without starting it. I went to start it and it would not start, so I coasted it down on level ground and tried to prime the pump, bump the starter for a few trys etc. and gave up. Had 4 guys grilling next door come help me push it into a parking spot and there it sits. This morning I go out and crack 3 of the injector lines and try bump starting it a few times. I hear this wish sound and go out and see fuel pouring out of the drain valve (coming from the top) where the valve sits ontop of the knurled plastic **** thing. Is this **** supposed to be hand tight or fairly tight? I tried tightening it with pliers and the leak got worse. Once I turned the key off it slowed to a steady 1 drop per second drip. I don't know if I cracked something when tightening it or if there is a gasket or o-ring that needs to be replaced? Any help would be appreciated. I think this is a coincidence b/c I had noticed a fuel smell for a few weeks before this but could not find a leak. This must be wear it is leaking as there is diesel all over the drivers motor mount and front diff. My truck has been down for 3 days now and no truck = no transportation. I am stuck at home. If I don't get this fixed soon I will have to tow it somewhere. Should be covered under the cummins ext. warranty but I know the hassles I will be facing, so I would rather just get it fixed myself. Also, if I do have to take the fuel canister apart, would filling it back up with diesel and cracking the lines open be enough to start it or will I have to pressurize the system? Reason I ask is if I do get it fixed and don't have the capability of pressurizing the system; I will have to tow it anyways. I might as well do it now.

Oh, I have a solid 12-14 psi at idle and have for 3 years now and have never had to replace any fuel parts. Truck has 94K on it. Fuel filters always replaced every 15K. Last day I drove it, pressure was normal like always, so I know this leaking is the problem.

Are there O-rings behind our drain valves like on this kit for the Ford's?

http://www.puredieselpower.com/catal...ngs-p-103.html

I REALLY appreciate the expert advice I have found on here, I just completed the evaporator replacement 2 months ago myself thanks to tips I got from you guys.

 

ive heard of this happening before, but dont know the fix, id open and close it several times to re seat the seals if possible. a factory replacement imo is out of the question (way too expensive from dealer), id switch to a stadadyne fuel manager and dump the whole factory setup as well as the factory lp.

 

I do have a FASS sitting around that I have planned on installing at some point. I just found out about the cummins warranty that extends past the normal powertrain warranty thanks to this board. So, now I am hesitant to put my performance parts on in fear of an injector pump or engine failure or some kind. I doubt I will ever use it but it sure gives me a warm fuzzy feeling knowing it is still under warranty for another 2 years or 40K.

I was just thinking that perhaps that knurled plastic thing is threaded so it can be moved up and down to adjust the tension on the valve. Maybe I tightened it too much and now it is pressing on the underside of the valve causing it to leak out at the top. It looks like it is puring out from the bottom drain but it is definitely just dripping down the side from the top of the valve.

 

I say just do away with the factory filter housing and put the FASS on if you have it sitting there.
If there is any way you can get out to Weatherford I have my complete old filter housing sitting in the garage you can borrow to get you up and running, can also help put that FASS on if you can get the truck out here (going to cost you a beer or ten if it is a short bed!!!)

Let me know
Kevin

 

Well I took the valve off and both o-rings looked fine. I am going to head to Dodge tomorrow and pick some up and see if that fixes it.

WOW! I really appreciate the offer. I might have to take you up on that when I get back into town. Headed to NC for a week. If this doesn't get it fixed tomorrow then I will borrow my brother's car and drive out there to pick it up.

Yeah it's a short bed, much more of a pain huh? I was waiting on the Vulcan Draw straw to come in but once it comes in I might be in touch. I would definitely bring plenty of beer.

 

Cummins sells a kit for this for about $8. I installed an '01 filter housing on my 98.5. Guess it had been sitting for while and dried out. It ran fine for about 1,000 miles and started spraying fuel everywhere. Installed the kit and no more leaks. If you go to the dealer they will probably try and sell you the cannister, and it is not cheap.

 

Well I ended up needing the complete valve itself and Dodge is .5 mile away compared to Cummins which is 35, so I bought it from Dodge. It was $38 and came with new o-rings and bolts. I am about to put it on and hopefully it will fix it.

 

Fixed the leak but I still can't get it started. Air in the line from parking it on the hill is the problem still. I am flying out of state for a week in the morning, so I won't be able to mess with it for awhile. I hate not having transportation. I have tried the cracking the injector lines and turning the key off and on a few times to try to pull fuel up but still no luck.

 

That happened to me too. Try this: take your fuel filter out & make sure the housing is full of fuel, replace fuel filter & bump your starter & wait the 25 seconds for the lift pump to do its thing, repeat this a couple more times & it should start.

 

Talked to Cummins this morning and the kit is less than $8. If anyone needs one they are made by Fleetguard with part #392675900 S. Going to get a spare for each truck.