Fuel Gauge Sender Replace?
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Fuel Gauge Sender Replace?
When it rains it pours......
The fuel gauge drops to empty and the fuel light goes on and the bell dings, even though the tank is full.
This happened before and then it started working again. I read about holding in the odometer button and turning on the ignition and the dash gauge works as it should. Sounds like the sender is haywire or mice ate the wires.
When I bought the truck (in 98) while it was under warranty they had to replace the sender unit. I suspect they have to drop the tank to do this?
Can anyone give an approximate price for what this might cost to have replaced at a shop?
Just a ballpark will do.
Thanks
Greg
The fuel gauge drops to empty and the fuel light goes on and the bell dings, even though the tank is full.
This happened before and then it started working again. I read about holding in the odometer button and turning on the ignition and the dash gauge works as it should. Sounds like the sender is haywire or mice ate the wires.
When I bought the truck (in 98) while it was under warranty they had to replace the sender unit. I suspect they have to drop the tank to do this?
Can anyone give an approximate price for what this might cost to have replaced at a shop?
Just a ballpark will do.
Thanks
Greg
#2
Registered User
Assuming it is the sender Genos garage has just the sender
https://www.genosgarage.com/product/...lacement-parts
You do need to drop the tank or lift the bed to get access. I have dropped my tank quite a few times over the years and it is not to big a deal. I can have mine down in 15 minutes, another 15 to put it back call it another 40 minutes to replace the sender so I would think a competent garage could do the repair in a couple hours or less. I have no idea what the book time is on that repair but that is most likely what they will go by.
https://www.genosgarage.com/product/...lacement-parts
You do need to drop the tank or lift the bed to get access. I have dropped my tank quite a few times over the years and it is not to big a deal. I can have mine down in 15 minutes, another 15 to put it back call it another 40 minutes to replace the sender so I would think a competent garage could do the repair in a couple hours or less. I have no idea what the book time is on that repair but that is most likely what they will go by.
#3
Registered User
You may want to get your lady's make up mirror and get your head up in there and take a look at the sender plug,,,its the wide one on top.
After I dropped the tank and pulled the pump and got it all back in my sender quit. Turns out I must have mussed up the plug in. A small zip tie snugged it up and haven't had any trouble since.
If you choose to drop the tank it is actually pretty easy with a floor jack and a piece of 2X12 or plywood. Just be sure to run the fuel level down quite a bit and have a new tank ring in hand...
After I dropped the tank and pulled the pump and got it all back in my sender quit. Turns out I must have mussed up the plug in. A small zip tie snugged it up and haven't had any trouble since.
If you choose to drop the tank it is actually pretty easy with a floor jack and a piece of 2X12 or plywood. Just be sure to run the fuel level down quite a bit and have a new tank ring in hand...
The following 2 users liked this post by SIXSLUG:
Greg Mueller (07-13-2017),
MAC702 (09-16-2017)
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
They pulled the bed back to get to the tank.
When the mechanic looked at the sender, the parts house had sent him the wrong one.
Then he saw that the float had simply come off.
He found the float and put it back on.
It works fine and I saved $100
When the mechanic looked at the sender, the parts house had sent him the wrong one.
Then he saw that the float had simply come off.
He found the float and put it back on.
It works fine and I saved $100
The following 2 users liked this post by Greg Mueller:
MAC702 (09-16-2017),
nothingbutdarts (07-21-2017)
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
The sender broke again and I took it back to the shop.
The shop guy says it needs a "module" which includes a fuel pump and costs $370 (from Dodge).
A few years back I installed and external pump and I am quite happy with it so I don't need another pump, just the snder.
When they monkeyed with the fuel tank the first time they did not connect an over flow pipe or something and now when I top off the tank it leaks out on the ground.
Looks like I may have drop the tank myself after all.
Doesn't anyone make just a replacement fuel sender unit for the 1998.5 ?
The shop guy says it needs a "module" which includes a fuel pump and costs $370 (from Dodge).
A few years back I installed and external pump and I am quite happy with it so I don't need another pump, just the snder.
When they monkeyed with the fuel tank the first time they did not connect an over flow pipe or something and now when I top off the tank it leaks out on the ground.
Looks like I may have drop the tank myself after all.
Doesn't anyone make just a replacement fuel sender unit for the 1998.5 ?
#7
Registered User
Yep,
https://www.genosgarage.com/product/...lacement-parts
And at <65US$ it should be more affordable than the dealer part.
While you are at it:
Clean and rust-proof the fuel hose connectors on the top of the tank, fill the electric plug with dielectric grease before reconnecting.
HTH
https://www.genosgarage.com/product/...lacement-parts
And at <65US$ it should be more affordable than the dealer part.
While you are at it:
Clean and rust-proof the fuel hose connectors on the top of the tank, fill the electric plug with dielectric grease before reconnecting.
HTH
The following users liked this post:
nothingbutdarts (09-17-2017)
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