four wheel abs or two wheel?
four wheel abs or two wheel?
Ive done some serching and can't find a good answer. I am replacing my hub on the front right of my truck and don't know if I need to order the one for the four wheel antilock brake system or the two wheel system. I read to look for a wire to the hub. Well i have a hose to the hub, it is not a wire. I also do have a wire to the front axle which i figure is the speed sensor wire. It plugs into the axle housing no where near the wheel. Also the rubber or plastic hose going to the hub area is broken at the end, which may explain the abs/antilock brake lights being on. Do I have four wheel abs or not? Where can i get a dust shield, how do I fix this hose. Thanks
Ive done some serching and can't find a good answer. I am replacing my hub on the front right of my truck and don't know if I need to order the one for the four wheel antilock brake system or the two wheel system. I read to look for a wire to the hub. Well i have a hose to the hub, it is not a wire. Also the rubber or plastic hose going to the hub area is broken at the end, which may explain the abs/antilock brake lights being on.
The wire you're referring to, if you have 4x4, is going to be the wire that sends the electronic signal to your 4x4 dashlight to let you know if you're front axle's engaged. It should be on the passenger side of the front axle, and there should be a couple of vacuum lines going in also. This is your CAD, the vacuum acuator for you 4x4. I believe on the 2000 and up, the vss is tapped off a tone ring in the rear axle. On the earlier models, it was tapped off of the back of the transfer case.
the plastic line is broken off at the back of the hub. Yes there seems to be one screw that held it on. The 90 degree elbow is what is broke right where it goes in. Can it be fixed? Does this mean i have four wheel antilock?
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Only 3500 had 4 wheel abs as standard if I recall. Serial Number to dealership will enlighten on ABS type. 4 wal will have computer and controls to left of master cylinder. Equipment list in glove box will have also.
Is your old wiring ruined? The new hub will come with the sensor in it, but as far as I know they don't include the wiring harness. The harness shouldn't be that expensive though. All you'll need is a piece that runs from the hub, up into the engine compartment. Along the inside of the fender there should be a connection where you can disconnect the old harness and install the new one.
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It is simple.
If you have drums on the rear it is 2 wheel ABS. If there are disk brakes then it is 4 wheel antilick. @2001 was the year 4 wheel antilock was introduced. This is what defines the 2001.5 designation you will see on various forums.
If you have drums on the rear it is 2 wheel ABS. If there are disk brakes then it is 4 wheel antilick. @2001 was the year 4 wheel antilock was introduced. This is what defines the 2001.5 designation you will see on various forums.
I remember now even with my SKF Hub it came with the harness that leads up to the connection on the fender.
I took some pictures for you this morning Whistlen. The first picture is the wiring that leads down to the hub. Mine is snipped because it rubbed against the rotor and cut through
. If you follow that (head to my 2nd picture). It goes up along the frame rail with the caliper brake hose. Open the hood (go to 3rd picture) and it will come up towards the right of the picture and then plug into that connection. 


This is off of my 99 Dually, so yours may be different, may not. But the general wiring for the hub should still be along the same lines.
ok, thanks to all. I got r done yesterday. I thought the hardest part was goin to be removing the old hub, but after reading about the power steerin trick it was easier than putting in the new axle seal for the passenger side. That was what held me up the longest. Size of seal and the way it goes in renders all the regular seal tools useless. I drove around to all the auto part stores i knew of and nobody had a tool that would work. Then my last option was to go to the last dodge dealer that is close. And i don't like this dealer. There was one much closer and much more people friendly specially when it came to service. The one still left is in Grove City Pennsylvania and happens to be where i bought the truck. They were going to charge me over $1300 to fix the injector pump and i would have to pay for towing. I had just over 100,000 miles on the truck at the time, which put me out of warranty by just over 200 miles. I took the truck to Ellis dodge which was much closer and much nicer and they fixed it, installed the intank pump, and payed for towing at no cost to me. Gotta love those guys. Anyway they arent around anymore, so I went reluctantly to Grove City and of course they said they would not rent or let you borrow any tools cause they won't come back or come back broke. Well I won't stop there again, even if they are the only ones around to have the vehicle i want. So I ended up buying all thread, washers, nuts, and a 3" pulley at trader horn. The pulley was just a little big so I ground down the outside edge a little. Then it fit into the cad hole and where the bearing would seat. I put the allthread into the axle, through the new seal and pully, put on washers and nut. Then on outside of axle i had a pully that was 5" i believe and slid it over the allthread, then washers and 2 nuts to lock the allthread in place. crawled back under truck to cad opening and with one wrench on the outside holding the allthread from turning, I started tightening the nut in the cad opening and it just pulled the seal into place. worked great for less than $20! I did order a new wire for the abs along with the new hub that was shot. Didn't know the hub was going to come with the wire already installed so now i have a extra one that cost almost $60. I will probably try returning it. All works great now. ABS and BRAKE light are off now and the truck goes down the road without all that noise from the bad wheel bearing.
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