First Diesel Winter
#1
First Diesel Winter
When do I need to start worrying about putting anti-Gel in the fuel? I live in Central Ky. so we do get cold here and the truck sits outside for now. Also, is Power Service with the Anti-Gel acceptable? Anything else I need to do, is there any tricks or methods I need to watch for when changing anti-freeze to prevent air pockets etc. Is Normal Green anti-freeze the correct stuff for this truck?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#3
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Most stations (at least up north) start selling blended fuel mid October. I can't say for sure in your area, but I would guess this is standard practice. I have heard of no cases of gelling for a lot of years now.
#5
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Power Service works good for me down to -25* winters. I use an 8 oz. water bottle full per 25-30 gal. fill up (NOT water, Power Service!) when the temps consistently get down into the teens.
Use Heavy Duty green antifreeze (like Prestone) in the Cummins. They don't suffer the cavitation problems and special additives that the Power Strokes need. Just drain then refill, making sure to fill the overflow bottle up to the mark. Take on a test drive to get the temp up to 190* then check/top off the overflow bottle if necessary.
Don't stall long on getting that fuel pressure gauge. If your lift pump is already dead (no pressure) it is killing your VP-44 injection pump. $$$
Use Heavy Duty green antifreeze (like Prestone) in the Cummins. They don't suffer the cavitation problems and special additives that the Power Strokes need. Just drain then refill, making sure to fill the overflow bottle up to the mark. Take on a test drive to get the temp up to 190* then check/top off the overflow bottle if necessary.
Don't stall long on getting that fuel pressure gauge. If your lift pump is already dead (no pressure) it is killing your VP-44 injection pump. $$$
#7
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I just started using the Power service white bottle (winter formula with anti-gel). I normally use the silver/grey bottle in the summer.
I also plug in the truck regularly. That helps out a lot. Not only does the block heater keep the engine warm, it also has a warming effect on almost everything under the hood, batteries, windshield washer tank (don't rely on the heater to keep your washer fluid from freezing, use the winter wash).
I will be taking the radiator fan off soon as well. I have read here that it helps with warm up and well as let the engine run more efficiently.
I have put a sheet of cardboard in front of the radiator, completely blocked it off.
I also plug in the truck regularly. That helps out a lot. Not only does the block heater keep the engine warm, it also has a warming effect on almost everything under the hood, batteries, windshield washer tank (don't rely on the heater to keep your washer fluid from freezing, use the winter wash).
I will be taking the radiator fan off soon as well. I have read here that it helps with warm up and well as let the engine run more efficiently.
I have put a sheet of cardboard in front of the radiator, completely blocked it off.
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#8
Power Service works good for me down to -25* winters. I use an 8 oz. water bottle full per 25-30 gal. fill up (NOT water, Power Service!) when the temps consistently get down into the teens.
Use Heavy Duty green antifreeze (like Prestone) in the Cummins. They don't suffer the cavitation problems and special additives that the Power Strokes need. Just drain then refill, making sure to fill the overflow bottle up to the mark. Take on a test drive to get the temp up to 190* then check/top off the overflow bottle if necessary.
Don't stall long on getting that fuel pressure gauge. If your lift pump is already dead (no pressure) it is killing your VP-44 injection pump. $$$
Use Heavy Duty green antifreeze (like Prestone) in the Cummins. They don't suffer the cavitation problems and special additives that the Power Strokes need. Just drain then refill, making sure to fill the overflow bottle up to the mark. Take on a test drive to get the temp up to 190* then check/top off the overflow bottle if necessary.
Don't stall long on getting that fuel pressure gauge. If your lift pump is already dead (no pressure) it is killing your VP-44 injection pump. $$$
Thanks for the info. I haven 't been driving the truck much do to the lack of the FP gauge, I am ordering one this weekend. Still trying to decide on Autometer Electric, Mechanical straight into cab (worry about leaks or failure) and mechanical with an Isolator. Supposedly there is an improved Isolator from one of the Diesel Vendors that is supposed to work well and not fail like the others.
#9
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I had electric FP gauge made by co. you mentioned. I got excellent customer service, however I installed 3 sending units and could not get them to function properly. I had a snubber right at the connection at my injection pump, 3' of SS wrapped hose, then the sending unit. Sometimes the gauge would work fine, and every once in a while it would read 3#, or 5#, or some insignificant number.
I installed a mechanical gauge one time while I was waiting for another sending unit. LP was working fine every time I fired up the truck. So I ran a ground wire all the way to the battery thinking, bad ground. Made no difference.
I installed a mech. gauge 2 months ago and the gauge shows 16# pretty much all the time. I added another 3 ft. piece of flex SS hose to the existing one and went directly to the gauge. I should have done it that way to begin with. I did install a valve inline to regulate fuel flow even more, and to have a shut off in case of a leak. Just my opinion.
I installed a mechanical gauge one time while I was waiting for another sending unit. LP was working fine every time I fired up the truck. So I ran a ground wire all the way to the battery thinking, bad ground. Made no difference.
I installed a mech. gauge 2 months ago and the gauge shows 16# pretty much all the time. I added another 3 ft. piece of flex SS hose to the existing one and went directly to the gauge. I should have done it that way to begin with. I did install a valve inline to regulate fuel flow even more, and to have a shut off in case of a leak. Just my opinion.
#11
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Power Service, white bottle. I flushed/filled my cooling system a while back and went with the Delo Premix recommended by Cummins. Whatever you use make sure its ETHYLENE glycol. Kurt
#12
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I find that removing the fan from the engine improves warm-up more than blocking the radiator does.
I've run fanless up to 60º temps with no problems. Just don't try to tow heavily or expect good A/C performance at low speed.
Justin
I've run fanless up to 60º temps with no problems. Just don't try to tow heavily or expect good A/C performance at low speed.
Justin
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