Now what? how much of the front end has to come apart? where to start?

Thanks Bob

 

I've some can fish it out with a magnet. I'm not sure if they are just lucky or what with all the iron!
Bottom pulley, , balancer and cover. Maybe 2 hrs.

 

I've heard of folks cleaning things up then adding a drop of superglue to hold it in place to prevent the drop issue.

Maybe you can get lucky and drain the oil and have it wash out with it.

 

its probably sitting on the cam gear and you will have to pull the timing cover if its not there use a magnet and fish around the front of the oil pan don't move the pump gear with the front open! good luck

 

Thanks for the replies, I will open it up, not that big of a deal, but I don't have a fan wrench(36mm), I will get one at napa and finish on Mon, I will also tighten the key for if there is a next time!

Good advice on moving the gear, I will mark it well, just in case.

I did try the magnet thing but none of mine are small enough, just my luck.

Thanks Bob

 

a big adjustable wrench and a hammer (left hand threads) will work good luck

 

Bob,
Try removing vac pump with power steering attached you might get lucky and get key through mounting hole in cover. If you remove gear cover replace front crankshaft seal.
REMOVAL
Disconnect both battery negative cables.
Partially drain engine coolant into container suitable for re-use (Refer to 7 -
Remove radiator upper hose.
Disconnect coolant recovery bottle hose from radiator filler neck and lift bottle off of fan shroud.
Disconnect windshield washer pump supply hose and electrical connections and lift washer bottle off of fan shroud.
Remove viscous fan/drive assembly
Remove the accessory drive belt
Remove the cooling fan support/hub from the front of the engine (Fan Support/Hub Assembly
Remove the crankshaft damper
Remove the gear cover-to-housing bolts and gently pry the cover away from the housing, taking care not to mar the gasket surfaces.
INSTALLATION
Obtain a seal pilot/installation tool from a crankshaft front seal service kit and install the pilot into the seal.
Apply a bead of Mopar® Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant or equivalent to the gear housing cover. Be sure to surround all through holes.
Using the seal pilot to align the cover (Installing Cover with Seal Pilot), install the cover to the housing and install the bolts. Tighten the bolts to 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
Remove the seal pilot.
Install the crankshaft damper
Install the fan support/hub assy. and tighten bolts to 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
Install the accessory drive belt
Install the cooling fan and shroud together
Install the windshield washer reservoir to the fan shroud and connect the washer pump supply hose and electrical connection.
Install the coolant recovery bottle to the fan shroud and connect the hose to the radiator filler neck.
Install the radiator upper hose and clamps.
Add coolant
Connect the battery cables.
Start engine and inspect for leaks.

 

Ok I had to pull the cover, it was at the bottom, I put the key in the old pump and it was loose as a goose! No wonder I droped it! I did not replace the crank seal . I will have to go back and do it if it is leaking, I was very careful with the old seal and hope it is ok.

For future reference, where do I find a seal pilot/installation tool?

Thanks Bob

 

Since the emergency issue was resolved I am moving this into the 24V forum.

 

I think the seal/pilot install tool comes with the new seal? I am thinking of the plastic tapered-shaped thing that helps get the new seal's lip started over the end of the crankshaft.

WHile you were in the timing gear case, did you notice if you have the upgraded timing gear case that captivates the dowel pin? You should have it, but you never know how long Cummins kept putting the old cases on the engines. Probably until their stock for assemblies was used up?

Also, to help reduce any misalignment stresses on the front seal while you reinstall the front cover, get some bolts about 3" long and cut the heads off. You can use these for support/alignment pins while you guide the front cover and that new seal over the end of the crankshaft.

A drill press works well for installing the new seal in the front cover.

Also, when I tabbed my dowel pin, I let a couple of drops of oil seep onto the lower sealing lip of the front cover. Naturally, this kept the RTV from sealing there and I had a nuisance oil drip. So I went back in and installed a '98 12-Valve front cover gasket instead of the RTV. It fit just like it was made for it.