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Dead Throttle

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Old 12-11-2006, 01:57 PM
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Dead Throttle

Good Day,
I am new to this group.....seems very informative. I am having a problem with the pedal going dead at certain speeds....usually in and around 80kph. she is a 02 dually 4x4 24 valve. she is new to me....and went in for warrenty. first,,,they did the torque con and a govenor relay/valve....same problem. then they replaced the altenator. seemed fine for 2 days but the problem returned. I am trying the "apps" reset as I type this. codes are as follows.....0216, 0234, 0500, 1687, 1693, 1694, 1698. I am a licenced mech.....but this cummins is a bit new to me. I am sure the codes will erase after the "apps" reset and if they reurn I will repost. I do like this truck and really want to get her ironed out before I start with any mods. as for my stupid question.....what is a silencer ring I see mentioned here alot.
Old 12-11-2006, 02:15 PM
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Easy to pull out

Remove the air tube from the front of the turbo.

There is a snap ring that can be easily removed (find the split in the ring and remove the ring starting at one end).

The silencer ring just comes out.
Old 12-11-2006, 02:19 PM
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I would suggest a search on here for your code 0216, and sorry to hear it.
Old 12-11-2006, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Sea:\>Drive
I would suggest a search on here for your code 0216, and sorry to hear it.
Yeah, it sounds like the VP44 has gone south on you. That is the same symptom I had when mine went. You keep pushing on the pedal, but nothing happens, you let off for a second and reapply your foot and away she goes!
Old 12-11-2006, 03:10 PM
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Yes, just had my VP replaced for the same reason. Welcome to the (big) club.
Old 12-11-2006, 08:14 PM
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dead pedal

same thing at 96400. had the vp44 and lift pump replaced and all is fine now. that is the problem I'd say.

2002 2500 24v HO 6sp 3.55s
Old 12-12-2006, 09:20 AM
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Thanks guys (and gals) for the input

heres the update......reset the apps and it made it worse....started doing it from idle....and I am suprised that disconecting the batteries did not clear the codes....oh well...I will clear them at work tonight with a scanner....secondly....the truck is under a warrenty of sorts....bought it from a ford dealer but now they are going to send it to a mopar dealer to fix....I hope...Here is my delima....are the stock parts worth being put on or should I talk to them and see about "upgrading" the pump. If so.....I would like to walk in there with as much info as possible....I am sure I will be paying for the "difference" in the pump and I truly want this thing fixed properly. I appresiate all the info on the lift pump and the gauge...it truly makes sense to put one....(on the phone ordering one now lol).

Thanks for the help this place seems great.....now for my second stupid question....what is the purpose of removing the silencer ring?

The Tree
Old 12-12-2006, 12:55 PM
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The only LP that the dealer will put on is a retro fit (updated) in tank pump. their ok on a stock truck, but if your going to bomb it, you will have to do one of two things. 1. put a helper pump on it also like a holley blue or 2. change it out to a fass pump or the like. I put the holley on dad's, and so has a lot of others and really like it, but that's your call. As for the ring it just makes the turbo alittle more.
Old 12-12-2006, 02:37 PM
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When you say "upgrading the pump," did you mean the VP44 injection pump or the lift pump?

Like Blackdiesel said, the Dodge dealer will only replace your lift pump with the in-tank version. This pump may be OK, but if I were you, I'd spend the extra money on a FASS, Walbro, Holley Blue, or whatever, and mount it on the frame rail as a pusher pump, you'll be much better off in the long run. The in-tank pump is much harder to replace when it goes bad, if you do a search on this forum, you'll read several horror stories about the in-tank pumps going bad.

However, your biggest problem is your VP44, since you have the "dead pedal" and the 216 code, your VP44 is going bad for sure. I would try to get the VP44 replaced before your warranty runs out.
Old 12-12-2006, 04:09 PM
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the lift pump will need up grading when you start bombing the truck. the vp44 that they put on will have the updated elecronics on it. but what ever you do "get a in cab fuel pressure gauge"
Old 12-12-2006, 04:15 PM
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I've not here of alot of in-tank pump failure (could have miss that one). Most people just want more pressure than they supply7-10 psi and down to 3-5 at WOT, and if you have some mods (big sticks or box) on it, it will pull it down to 0 at WOT and that's not good on the IP
Old 12-13-2006, 12:02 AM
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ok...let me see if i got this right. I can go with the dealer installed ip....but must replace the stock l/p with an aftermarket as recomended. The l/p is cheap...compared to the i/p.....just wondering if there is a good upgrade I can request aka the injection pump. Will a new dealer installed injection pump sufice as far as adding a few mods.....exhaust to start.....maybe some electonics?????? And any advice aka h/p mods would be appriesiated too....I am slowly reading through all the posts I can but I believe my first mod will be exhaust And btw....thanks for all the help

MT
Old 12-13-2006, 07:02 AM
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the dealer gets real nervice when you start talking "more power". there is a hot rod vp(about 80hp over stock on a stock motor). it's about $700 over a stock one, and IMO you can take that $ and and buy 120hp with a comp or juice, and have a little left over, I would let them do their thing (intank and all) then put a helper pump on it for around $100, a fass will cost around $500, that's your call, as far as mods, deside the hp you will be happy with (for now) so you won't have to send $ twice. (you don't want to by a set of 80 hp injectors just to pull them out and buy a set of 220's) the stock exhaust is good for about 100-120 hp over stock before it starts hurting you. First get the gauges took care of then a box, intake, injetors (sticks), and a turbo. give us a price range, and a hp range, and we will help lighten your pockets
Old 12-13-2006, 08:50 AM
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Yup, I think you may not have much of a choice after all. When the dealer realizes he has to replace the VP44, he may also want to replace the lift pump with the in-tank version. I'm not sure if this applies to you, but some (or maybe all) dealers replace the lift pump each time they replace a VP44 under warrantee. So I agree with Blackdiesel just let them replace the VP44, and if they replace the lift pump with the in-tank version, then just add a helper pump if you want, if not then you're free to add any lift pump that you wish.

Originally Posted by blackdiesel
I've not here of alot of in-tank pump failure (could have miss that one). Most people just want more pressure than they supply7-10 psi and down to 3-5 at WOT, and if you have some mods (big sticks or box) on it, it will pull it down to 0 at WOT and that's not good on the IP
That's exactly what I meant, I should have been more specific, thanks for clarifying.
Old 12-18-2006, 09:29 AM
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update.....and a question on pto

The dealer...at thier expence....replaced the I/P , refitted the L/P into the tank and the waste gate. Problem solved. THANKS to all the input....great forum. I will keep you posted of all upgrades in the future......they will be starting with full gauges and a 4 inch exhaust. Now, for My question. The tech at the dealer told me there is a wire under the hood that is marked pto. He said they tried everything to get it to do something with no luck. I read in mitchell that there is a pto sensore on the left fire wall. I was wondering if anyone has been able to get the truck to idle up throught this feature. I am looking to have the truck run at 1000 to 1200 rpms when she is cold to aid the warm up. I know there is an idle feature from the dealer but that shuts down 3 cylinders and it really shakes the crap out of the truck. Thanks again guys (and gals)
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