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cured, left rear oil pan leak

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Old May 31, 2005 | 12:42 AM
  #1  
Haulin_in_Dixie's Avatar
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From: Branchville, Alabama
cured, left rear oil pan leak

There is currently another member with the same problem and I have seen that this leak is a weak spot on the pan design. I have heard of several of them.

For months I chased a bad oil leak near the rear of the engine on the drivers side. I finally found it to be cracks at two of the pan bolt holes. I finally got around to doing a backyard fixup on it.

I was in Lowe's the other day and saw a piece of way overpriced steel bar that measured 3/4 x 1/4 inch. I thought that was just about what I was looking for so bought it. A couple of hours bending and grinding and I made a support that fits into the pan rail exactly, from the last hole going foreword for six holes. I cleaned it all down real good and a liberal coating of black high temp sillycone sealer. Had to use longer bolts, but it seems to be holding well.

It is amazing how much mess a gallon and a half of oil in 7000 miles can make. Hopefully this will be a perminent cure, I sure don't want to have to pull the pan.
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Old May 31, 2005 | 12:52 AM
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BigBlue's Avatar
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Why? You should have it R&R'ed in less than an hour.
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Old May 31, 2005 | 08:56 AM
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From: New Meadows, Idaho
I agree with Big Blue...

Seriously, I think if to put a good amount of sealant on your gasket plus the bar I think it will work good. Some of the old Chevy engines did something like that to keep the pans from leaking.

But if the cracks start to grow more you might have to have the pan brazed or replaced...
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Old May 31, 2005 | 03:37 PM
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AKDSLDOG's Avatar
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According to the manual you must pull the tranny first to have enough room to drop the pan. ..... Anyone know differant from experiance? Mine is leaking at the same spot.
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Old May 31, 2005 | 05:08 PM
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mini14's Avatar
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From: New York
i have read other posts, u dont have to remove tranny if u remove motor mounts and lift engine enough to clear sh.t in the way
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Old May 31, 2005 | 06:40 PM
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From: va beach, va
There are alternate methods besides pulling the tranny. If your truck is still covered under the cummins engine warrenty, you should be able to have it repaired at the dealer. I just had a new gasket with the black sylicone put on a couple days ago.
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Old May 31, 2005 | 11:34 PM
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JD farmboy's Avatar
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From: Ohio
I have the same tranny and I just replaced the rear main, and when I took off the plate that holds the seal, I noticed the pan gasket was hard and brittle, If you can at all I would recommend changing the gasket or having it done, however, I didn't change mine , I just put that purple flange sealer on it and it seams to be holding ok, I would highly recommend that stuff, it works great, you can get it at your local Case IH dealer or John Deere dealer. And no, you don't have to remover the tranny to R&R the oil pan.
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 02:46 PM
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Haulin_in_Dixie's Avatar
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From: Branchville, Alabama
With all due respect, you can't seal a pan gasket from the outside. I had crackes in the pan flange, different problem.
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 04:32 PM
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Sorry, my bad.
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 09:10 PM
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tool's Avatar
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I had an old F150 with a 300 I6.

Pan gasket leaked like a sieve!!, didn't have time to go through the hassle of replacing the pan, so I took a tube of plain old $3 clear sillicone calking and calked all the way around the outside of the pan, smearing it liberally with my finger. Never leaked a drop again in the 40 or 50,000 miles I had the truck after that.

I've also sen that done on tractors etc with the same result.
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 09:59 PM
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Haulin_in_Dixie's Avatar
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From: Branchville, Alabama
Ok glad it worked for you and JD.
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